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  #1  
Old 02-08-2012, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmugur View Post
Symptoms: Failure to engage reverse gear was a common problem with early 5HP24s
Findings: the F-clutch piston seal, which was bonded/welded in one piece to the back of the pressed metal piston, would wear badly and eventually leak.
Repair:
Suggestion: ZF repair kit $900
Links: RangeRovers.net Forum

link not working (unless it's supposed to take me to the main forum and not to a thread), i'm having this problem and would like to know more about the kit. thank you!
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  #2  
Old 02-08-2012, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isdeleon View Post
link not working (unless it's supposed to take me to the main forum and not to a thread), i'm having this problem and would like to know more about the kit. thank you!
Fixed. For some reason they changed the links on their forum.
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2012, 06:40 PM
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thanks! appreciate it
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  #4  
Old 02-09-2012, 01:13 PM
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I've had my 05 4.4 at the dealer for the following:

1. on quick stops it seems I am catching the trans from downshifting into 1st, so when I quick stop and start it isn't in gear then it jumps because it shifts to first while I have pressed the gas.

2. this is the most annoying of the scenarios... at 40MPH on level ground at a steady speed it seems to slip in and out of gear causing a jerking action.

3. going up or down hills will cause the trans to either stay in a low gear too long before shifting up. it holds the RPMS and no matter if I let off the gas or increase speed it does not shift.

Of course the dealer could not get it to duplicate any of this. Such a waste of time. Initially they thought they would update the codes as they found a scenario where the codes fix this, but come to find out it was for a 3.0 model.

They did set the adaptive learning to defaults so it would re-learn my driving but this is very annoying and I am afraid it meaning something is going wrong with the transmission and I don't want to wait until it completely breaks to fix it.

Kevin
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  #5  
Old 02-16-2012, 11:52 AM
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Phil, Louis and others that know the insides of the 5hp24 tranny I need an advice.

I am at the point where I need to take the tranny down and fix it. Not sure if it's better to buy the transmission kit before I open it up or open it up and then buy what it's needed. Since I don't want to have the car unusable for too long I would prefer to have all the parts before I take it down.

Recently I get the vibration once in a while as well beside a hard upshift o slipage from 3-4 sometimes before warms up.
I already bought the VB kit and I can start with that but this is not going to fix the vibration which is caused by the TC based on what I have been reading so far.
Since I will have the transmission out I would like to rebuild it but what is the package I need for this job? Please see the link below:

Transmission Kit : Automatic, Standard Transmission and Transfer Case Rebuild Kits, Cobra Transmission Parts 1-800-293-1848

Master or Banner kit or what else?

Thanks
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  #6  
Old 02-16-2012, 11:04 PM
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Read my thread from about a year ago.

Consider buying just the book first. Then decide. This trans is pretty simple mechanically, but you need space, be organized, etc.
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2012, 01:21 PM
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Arrow Need a Reliable shop for Trans fluid flush/change

Fellow X'rs, does anybody know of a good shop that are honest and know what they are doing, in the Bloomingdale, IL area for Transmission fluid flush/change or better yet give me their honest opinion as to what is going on with my trans!

thank you for any input/suggestions and as usual for all the gurus

ps. already tried the dealers and usual with them ...replace!
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  #8  
Old 02-22-2012, 08:52 PM
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Hello everyone!
noob so please don'=)t hate!!

I guess I'm also in need of some help with transmission issues that I have been encountering with my 2001 BMW 3.0i (62,000 miles).

I read what other issues people had, and well my symptoms don't match. trying to get a better understanding on whats going on, I don't want to be taken advantage of at our local Indy Shop. All the Help would be Greatly appreciated!

Car Specs:
2001
3.0i
Auto
62k

From a stop sign to stop sign, when hard acceleration then applying brakes quickly transmission clunks. Its very hard to describe, but it only happens when decelerating.
I do have some slipping when in reverse and on huge hills. I really never put both of the issues together but if someone believe both are related kindly let me know. thanks x fans!
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  #9  
Old 02-22-2012, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E53nda808 View Post
Hello everyone!
noob so please don'=)t hate!!

I guess I'm also in need of some help with transmission issues that I have been encountering with my 2001 BMW 3.0i (62,000 miles).

I read what other issues people had, and well my symptoms don't match. trying to get a better understanding on whats going on, I don't want to be taken advantage of at our local Indy Shop. All the Help would be Greatly appreciated!

Car Specs:
2001
3.0i
Auto
62k

From a stop sign to stop sign, when hard acceleration then applying brakes quickly transmission clunks. Its very hard to describe, but it only happens when decelerating.
I do have some slipping when in reverse and on huge hills. I really never put both of the issues together but if someone believe both are related kindly let me know. thanks x fans!
Check your engine mounts, and trans mounts. Put car in drive, hold brake with one foot, pull up e-brake, hold brakes hard, other foot give it some nice throttle. Have someone else look at engine from side. If mounts are bad, engine will rock significantly, upon releasing the gas pedal, you should hear same clunk as engine comes down. Engine should be tight, no rocking when mounts are good. I'm not responsible if you run someone over when trying this. If brakes are firmly planted, it shouldn't go anywhere though. Maybe have your indy test this out.
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  #10  
Old 02-23-2012, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickGT1 View Post
Check your engine mounts, and trans mounts. Put car in drive, hold brake with one foot, pull up e-brake, hold brakes hard, other foot give it some nice throttle. Have someone else look at engine from side. If mounts are bad, engine will rock significantly, upon releasing the gas pedal, you should hear same clunk as engine comes down. Engine should be tight, no rocking when mounts are good. I'm not responsible if you run someone over when trying this. If brakes are firmly planted, it shouldn't go anywhere though. Maybe have your indy test this out.
Thank you so much for the tip!! ill be checking into that this weekend! BIG Mahalos
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