Removing the axle nut

[pinksoviet]

Hi guys, I'm planning to replace my driver's side front axle (CV boot cracked... and now it's making noise). Anywho, as silly as it may sound, I'm not sure about the 36mm 12 point socket I should be getting. The axle nut seems a bit deep in the hub and I was worried that some sockets might be too short to allow for me to turn it loose using a breaker bar (e.g. would I have enough clearance to make a 90 degree angle between the direction of torque and the arm of the breaker bar)

I ordered a Craftsman 36mm one, and it looks to be about a shy under 2 inches in length, so I was wondering if it would be advisable to order a longer socket (e.g. deep sockets or those used for impact guns).

Thanks everyone!

[Ben71781]

I have done the replacement with a regular 36 mm socket. Not a problem at all.

[pinksoviet]

Thank you so much!

[romeokc10]

I replaced my left side outer boot in July, I took route of removing the inner boot and then putting on the outer boot. That axle nut is torqued to something like 450 lb ft, after reading numerous posts where guys just couldn't get the damn thing off I took the inner boot removal method.

[jdd]

The method I used recently for undoing the CV nut was to remove the wheel and use a punch to knock back the indented part of the nut.
I then removed the centre badge/cap from the wheel and refitted it and lowered the car onto the ground.
I used a standard length 36mm 12 point socket with a short extension and a long breaker bar.
Support the head of the breaker bar at the correct height (I used an adjustable axle stand), making sure the socket is fully engaged over the nut, then apply force to the breaker bar.
I had to actually stand on the end of the breaker bar and bounce a little before it finally started to move.
It’s also a little easier with an assistant sitting in the drivers’ seat with their foot on the brake pedal.
Refit is just the opposite procedure making sure to use a new CV nut.
After tightening remember to use a punch to dent the outer collar of the nut into the groove on the end of the CV joint.

[powers1]

Good information!Just to note that front or rear hubs have a tightening torque of 310 lb/ft or 420 Nms...(no where near 450 lb/ft !!!)

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by jdd

The method I used recently for undoing the CV nut was to remove the wheel and use a punch to knock back the indented part of the nut.
I then removed the centre badge/cap from the wheel and refitted it and lowered the car onto the ground.
I used a standard length 36mm 12 point socket with a short extension and a long breaker bar.
Support the head of the breaker bar at the correct height (I used an adjustable axle stand), making sure the socket is fully engaged over the nut, then apply force to the breaker bar.
I had to actually stand on the end of the breaker bar and bounce a little before it finally started to move.
It’s also a little easier with an assistant sitting in the drivers’ seat with their foot on the brake pedal.
Refit is just the opposite procedure making sure to use a new CV nut.
After tightening remember to use a punch to dent the outer collar of the nut into the groove on the end of the CV joint.

Nice description here. Many subtle tips here, that I'm sure will help for the extra-difficult removals. I'll make a note of this.

Regarding other comments, yes, just a screwdriver + light hammer will bend out the crimp thing. And it's not really to prevent it from being removed, it's to prevent it from removing itself.

Regarding torque, I have a torque multiplier which will scale things up by a factor of 3.3x (as I recall), which is a nice solution for high torque settings. But also ... I have not undone the axle nuts on my x5 yet, but on other cars, when I remove, reinstall, and torque, I (always, I think) find that the crimp ends up at the same spot, regardless of how difficult it was to remove the nut vs. to re-torque it.

So for those without a 310 ft-lb torque wrench, torque multiplier, or extension bar, if your estimate of the right torque causes the nut to line up with the crimp in the original position, that should be taken as a confirmation that things are right. And if not ...

Also, for high torque items like this, the manual will often be specific about surface preparation, for example, surfaces clean and with a light covering of engine oil. Since friction is a major component of the applied torque, things like these instructions that affect applied torque should be followed.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

Nice description here. Many subtle tips here, that I'm sure will help for the extra-difficult removals. I'll make a note of this.

Regarding other comments, yes, just a screwdriver + light hammer will bend out the crimp thing. And it's not really to prevent it from being removed, it's to prevent it from removing itself.

Regarding torque, I have a torque multiplier which will scale things up by a factor of 3.3x (as I recall), which is a nice solution for high torque settings. But also ... I have not undone the axle nuts on my x5 yet, but on other cars, when I remove, reinstall, and torque, I (always, I think) find that the crimp ends up at the same spot, regardless of how difficult it was to remove the nut vs. to re-torque it.

So for those without a 310 ft-lb torque wrench, torque multiplier, or extension bar, if your estimate of the right torque causes the nut to line up with the crimp in the original position, that should be taken as a confirmation that things are right. And if not ...

Also, for high torque items like this, the manual will often be specific about surface preparation, for example, surfaces clean and with a light covering of engine oil. Since friction is a major component of the applied torque, things like these instructions that affect applied torque should be followed.

My brother has a torque multiplier which he used to remove the axle nut on his Sienna. The shop owner where he rented the lift never saw a torque multiplier before and was amazed at how easily the nut came off with just a normal length ratchet.

As for the comment of lining up the old nut indent with the axle indent, that only works if you use the old nut which I don't advise reusing the old nut.

[romeokc10]

Oh yeah, thanks, I must have gotten the newtons and pounds turned around, but 310 lb/ft of torque is nothing to sneeze at.

[billdo]

Without a torque wrench, Isn't 310ft/lbs about as tight as you can get it.