Removing the axle nut

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by billdo

Without a torque wrench, Isn't 310ft/lbs about as tight as you can get it.

With so many variables, there is no possible response to this statement.

How strong are you? Are you built like Bo Jackson or Bo Derek?

How long is the ratchet handle/breaker bar you plan to use?

Will you stand on the wrench handle to tighten it? If so, how much do you weigh?

And so on......

310 ft/lbs is exactly that. Why not rent the correct tool and get it right. The cost of repairing a possible failure caused by getting it wrong could exceed the cost of the Tq Wrench and/or possible loss of life.

You think professional is expensive? Try novice!

[jdd]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

With so many variables, there is no possible response to this statement.

How strong are you? Are you built like Bo Jackson or Bo Derek?

How long is the ratchet handle/breaker bar you plan to use?

Will you stand on the wrench handle to tighten it? If so, how much do you weigh?

And so on......

310 ft/lbs is exactly that. Why not rent the correct tool and get it right. The cost of repairing a possible failure caused by getting it wrong could exceed the cost of the Tq Wrench and/or possible loss of life.

You think professional is expensive? Try novice!

Good response!
As already said 310 ft lbs is exactly that, but to put it into perspective, if you have a breaker bar with a 1 foot handle, you would need to apply 310 lbs to the very end to achieve the correct torque.
As the length of the handle increases the required force applied to the end of the handle decreases.
A breaker bar with a 2 foot handle would require 155 lbs on the very end to achieve 310 ft lbs of torque, and so on. (double the length, halve the weight).
Also, if you use your weight and stand on the end of the breaker bar, the handle must be horizontal for the above to apply.
In addition, bouncing/jumping on the end of the breaker bar will apply significantly more force than just your steady body weight and should be avoided when doing the nut up, although it is sometimes necessary when undoing the nut (depending on how much you weigh).
Although there is likely to be some safety margin, over torqueing can be as dangerous as under torqueing.
If you over torque the nut it will cause stress on the end of the CV that it was not designed to handle, potentially causing it to break which may not happen straight away.
If you are unsure, the safest thing is to hire a torque wrench capable of measuring this amount of torque.

[Ricky Bobby]

Guys if you pop your center caps off a few days prior and soak the axle nut once a day for a couple days in PB blaster it's not an issue. I sprayed mine 3 times the 3 days prior to removal.

Use the method above, 12 pt 36mm socket on 6" extension, using a 23" breaker bar from harbor freight, and to keep the socket on the nut rest the socket extension on a jack stand to keep it level.

The trick is to slide a cheater bar (a long steel pipe) to get more torque than the breaker bar allows. The cheap and easy way to do this for free is to take off your handle from your jack and slide it over the breaker bar. Doing that made my breaker bar about 40" long and just lean on it a bit counterclockwise and it should loosen up just fine!

Work smarter not harder!

[billdo]

I just did the axle replacement. I sprayed some PB on it the night before and drove a few miles in it. The nut came of super easy. Kind of surprised me. As for tightening. I used a 24" breaker bar and put as much into as I could. I checked it against the other axle to see how many threads were showing and they were both the same. I felt good about it and called it a success.

[hunds02]

I was having a little trouble removing the axle nut today so I can replace the CV joint. Even with a breaker bar and PB blaster I couldn't do it. Then I realized the nut is crimped to prevent it from being removed.

Any tips on how to de-crimp the nut? Car is on jack stands now and will be overnight. I rather not lower it and put tires on as my thrust arms are disconnected (will replace).

[TiAgX5]

No need to de-crimp the nut if you use something along these lines.....

[hunds02]

haha, agreed! Too bad I don't own an air compressor nor any air powered tools...

[upallnight]

A screw driver, punch, or a chisel should uncrimp the nut. Plenty of YouTube videos.

[TiAgX5]

IMHO, DIYers will eventually "give up" DIYing if they don't invest some of the money saved into tools.

Nothing more frustrating then a 3 hr job turning into a 3 day one because tools are lacking.

I upgraded my compressor ($300) and bought the gorilla impact gun ($100) to install a new transfer case chain & seals ($100). This turned a $100 job into a $500 job.

Huge repair cost jump, but the BMW dealer would have charged almost $3000 for a reman TC unit and over $1000 labor.

Future DIYs will be much quicker/less frustrating. Almost enjoyable!

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

IMHO, DIYers will eventually "give up" DIYing if they don't invest some of the money saved into tools.

Nothing more frustrating then a 3 hr job turning into a 3 day one because tools are lacking.

I upgraded my compressor ($300) and bought the gorilla impact gun ($100) to install a new transfer case chain & seals ($100). This turned a $100 job into a $500 job.

Huge repair cost jump, but the BMW dealer would have charged almost $3000 for a reman TC unit and over $1000 labor.

Future DIYs will be much quicker/less frustrating. Almost enjoyable!

I learn that lesson from my dad who was an ASE certified mechanic. When my dad built a new garage for his house, one of the things my siblings and I got for him was an air compressor from Sears.

I also learn from him to buy quality tools. My brother and I inherited my dad's collection of Mac and Snap-on tools.