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#82
03-09-2013, 09:30 AM
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Not quite... Still got everyone baffled but trying a few things to see if I can isolate the issue. It's as simple as driving around with a fuse out and seeing if I get no drain issues, then at least I know where to start looking.
My main probs have been intermittent radio and some pulsing voltage at the trailer light socket. So, took the trailer socket fuse out and will see if I can get around without the battery dying. If it isn't that, next one to try is obviously the radio/nav. BTW, hope it isn't a nav module - got quoted $3600 for a new one, supplied but not installed!!  And if you want to catch up to swap horror stories, PM me. Would love to share my frustrations with a sympathetic mind!! 
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#83
03-18-2013, 09:37 PM
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Ok, bit the bullet and took it to the local BMW dealer.
They did a bit of diagnostic testing and came back and said it is the alternator. They said it was charging at 13.5-13.7V, but at only 10A, when it should be at 90-100A. $1600 to replace. A recap of my issues: - battery draining: slowly if car unlocked completely, quite quickly if all bar drivers door locked, or all doors are locked. - intermittent working radio. No power to it, then suddenly comes on (perhaps over a bump, so might be dodgy connection) - flickering trunk lights on the inside - NAV screen "scrolling" sometimes after starting car. Goes away after a minute or so. - angel eye "winking" when starting the car from a jump start - alarm going off when battery gets low voltage - 'pulsating' voltage at the trailer hitch plug. I know the truck is susceptible to a range of issues when subject to low voltage, but the fact that the car doesn't drain the battery much when unlocked completely, but does drain it quickly if the other 3 doors are locked or all 4 doors are locked has me sceptical that it is simply the alternator. Any thoughts? Want to pick your brains before I fork out the $$$
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#84
03-18-2013, 10:48 PM
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BTW, my auto electrician tested the alternator a couple of months ago and it showed 110A output, but admits it could be an intermittent fault in the alternator, so BMW Service guys may well be genuine...
Anyone had a dealer agree to refund if they didn't get the fix correct? Wondering if my dealer will agree to refund the cost of the alternator if it doesn't fix the problem? No harm in asking I guess...
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#86
03-19-2013, 12:28 AM
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Maybe this thread will help convince you to tackle it yourself. I'm not sure if he rebuilt the regulator only or replaced the complete alternator.
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ing-fixed.html
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#87
03-19-2013, 12:46 AM
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i replaced watercooled alternator while overseas - the brand new part cost me about $400 delivered from US, i got a local indy and he replaced it... non-watercooled one should be much less... and easier to replace... the water cooled one was 140 A...
$1600? someone is smoking something!!!!
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#88
03-19-2013, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
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#89
03-19-2013, 01:12 AM
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$1600 - not really surprising in Oz... I guess that's why I want to make doubly sure that is what it is before giving the go ahead!
I read Slick's thread and it seems to be he is getting over and under charging (mainly under), whereas mine seems to charge at around 13.5 to 13.7V consistently, it's just that now the Stealer has said it was only putting out 10A, rather than 100A. Is the crap amp output a sign of a VR issue, or alternator itself? And re Slicks thread, Upallnight said (page 6) "So did you rebuild the original alternator or did you buy a new alternator?" and Slick said"Yea I rebuilt. Did you read post above. It was easy. I'm happy." I thought all he did was the VR, not the alternator??  (EDIT: TwinsPoppa - I see you already mentioned this  )Maybe Slick can shed some light?
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#90
03-19-2013, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
I didn't mean to imply he had similar symptoms. Mainly I just wanted to show you your options vs paying $1600. Does that price include the alternator? So, you could attempt buying and replacing the complete alternator yourself. Or, if its just the voltage regulator, replace/rebuild it yourself. 
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