Front Wheel Bearing R&R

[docnabimmer]

Good to know .thank you.
@cn90- btw can you give us an update on the Bave39 mod .325cilover over at fanatics just did the mod and is having pending lean codes after 50 miles on the mod.I just did mine today but have not driven enough so can you please post a feedback on that thread ?
Thank you.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

That looks like the usual 3/4" pusher. If so it will not reliably remove the front bearing.

Possibly if you get some 8" 3/4" grade 8 fine bolts. Else drill them out and get a bigger bolt and it will work great



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Andrew,
I do not plan to use the threaded shaft for the removal or replacement. I bought the kit for the dies included for pressing in/out with a 20 ton press.

[cn90]

I think if people use the 23-piece set mentioned above with HEAT, it will be fine
Heat significantly reduces the force needed to remove/install the Outer race against the bore in the knuckle.

So before removing, heat the Outer race really well with propane torch.

Installation should be easier bc once you heat the bore and freeze the bearing, it should go in with minimal force.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by cn90

I think if people use the 23-piece set mentioned above with HEAT, it will be fine
Heat significantly reduces the force needed to remove/install the Outer race against the bore in the knuckle.

So before removing, heat the Outer race really well with propane torch.

Installation should be easier bc once you heat the bore and freeze the bearing, it should go in with minimal force.

My only worry with heating the knuckle is what that might do to the ball joints...

I 'spose you could remove them first. And that sometime requires heat.

[wpoll]

Oh, and of course, all this work is done with the wheel speed sensor removed!!

[cn90]

I'd not worry about ball joint bc it sits below knuckle.
Even if you heat the bore to 150C, the ball joint is probably at 50C (you can use an infrared temp gun to monitor). At 50C, it is slightly hotter than the hottest day in the summer, which can be at 38-42C.

[Vanguard]

Originally Posted by cn90

I'd not worry about ball joint bc it sits below knuckle.
Even if you heat the bore to 150C, the ball joint is probably at 50C (you can use an infrared temp gun to monitor). At 50C, it is slightly hotter than the hottest day in the summer, which can be at 38-42C.

Wrap the ball joint with a wet rag. That should help some prevent heat from building up.

[andrewwynn]

The ball joint is far enough away. I use IR thermo gun to monitor knuckle up to about 250F (120C). That was the magic temp that realeased my stuck bearing when I already preloaded with about 17T of force but it still didn't move.

I heated to about 250F and it moved without additional turns on the tool. (with a very loud BANG) sounded like a large metal bolt snapped but was just the bearing moving .001".

I don't need to heat anymore because the improved press can push 31T nearly double the requirement .

I have been meaning to meausre the exact plate sizes I use to add to the DIY guide and will try to remember this time.

You could make a kit from water pipe material for maybe $20-30 that will be far superior to the generic HF kit.

[cn90]

Just stopped by local Autozone store.

They do carry the 23-piece set mentioned above for rent.

Now I wonder if you can use the adapters from the 23-piece set but use them with
the giant C-Clamp from the other set I mentioned earlier (the C-Clamp from the
Powerbuilt set). This way you have that massive bolt that comes with the massive
C-Clamp...

If anyone tries this trick, please post...

[andrewwynn]

You need a very very large throat to do this. I use an 8" bolt with my press to remove the bearing. What is the opening gap on the giant C?