Front Wheel Bearing R&R

[andrewwynn]

You need a very very large throat to do this. I use an 8" bolt with my press to remove the bearing. What is the opening gap on the giant C?

[andrewwynn]

That might do the trick plus maybe newer models may have slightly different knuckle size or I had more rust.

I didn't put in release agent around the outer race, I just know that with lubricated threads I stripped out three hardened push rods before I upgraded

[cn90]

Independent of the tools mentioned above, this youtuber was very clever when he replaced the rear bearing on his BMW 3-series...

This youtube video is a must see!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XSdylj343Q

I will highlight a few things:

1. Removing the hub using a bearing separator as a backing device, once the lug bolts are tightened, the hub comes out.
Alternatively, you can place some ? 2x4 wood and a wrench as backing material so the lug exerts the force on the wrench rather than the wood, just a thought...

2. PVC Coupler is no match, it broke...So don't use PVC Coupler.

3. No need for large receiver cup, a few pieces of 2x4 wood and piece of metal (from the internal spring compressor), and the bearing came out!

4. To install new bearing, he used the plumbing disc, but he should have used the OLD bearing as an adapter, just an option.

Here are the photos from the same youtube video...

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[andrewwynn]

You can easily 'roll your own' that's why i've said i'll take some measurements. If i did a 'roll your own' i would look into some plumbing parts; it's definitely better to have a full cylinder to push on vs a couple blocks of wood but as shown it's possible. The rear wheel probably needs less than 4-5T to remove the hub, it's not in the same league as the front wheel.

I use a backing plate and bolts through the hub to remove the hub on the front wheel, it self-destructs the dust cap so i buy a new one when i buy the bearing.

for the rear, a slide hammer is the best way to remove it; just remove the ABS sensor first (made that mistake on my last one).

[andrewwynn]

You can no don't do it. 95% chance the guys using the hammer destroyed the new bearing going in though.

Consider: lateral impact; hit a pot hole while turning is almost always how the bearing is destroyed, one single hit on the inner race of a new bearing you just destroyed it.

I destroyed my wife's abs sensor with slide hammer by not removing it before knocking out the hub .

I've seen examples of people using a 10T ram to install and supposedly remove front bearings on an X3 which I think is very similar to X5 and there is no way that can reliably push out an X5 front bearing. I've done about 5 of them so far and another tomorrow.

I may try to use hand power and a torque adapter to see if adding Release agent can drop the forces enough you can use a 3/4" rod.

It's painfully simple for me to pull the bearing now with the 1" rod and 760 ft·lb impact wrench.

If you bought the right pipe coupler and flange, you should be able to do the same job on the cheap and way more reliably than the H F set with the under sized rod.

I've actually seen that exact video before I did my first bearing replacement, probably where I got the idea to cut the race off the hub with angle grinder; that's a very effective method.

I did notice that Honda bearing is quite small compared to the X5 bearing. Maybe less than three rear bearing on the X5. It probably took less than 5T of force to install the rear hub into the bearing on the back of the x5.

Since removal is the bear, you could likely use a trick like that video and a sledge for removal. If you used the old bearing for the press you might get away with sledge for install but you'll be subjecting the inner race to 1000s of G of impact there is no way I would recommend that. You need to make one dent 0.0002" deep and that bearing is toast. Definitely only install using slow force like a screw or hydraulic piston or you will be calling this install the "practice run"

[cn90]

In the youtube video, during installation, they hammered the OUTER race using the OLD bearing, so no damage to INNER race.

[cn90]

For removal, I have seen people use a dremel or grind stone and cut tge Outer race, thus weakening it. Or use heat.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by cn90

For removal, I have seen people use a dremel or grind stone and cut tge Outer race, thus weakening it. Or use heat.

I've also seen but knowing what I knows now it's just way way way easier to make a proper pusher with a 1" grade 8 bolt and some grease and an oilite bushing. It's not difficult to make and ∞ easier.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by cn90

In the youtube video, during installation, they hammered the OUTER race using the OLD bearing, so no damage to INNER race.

Yes, but the inertia of the inner race will pound the ball bearings into the outer race with every hit. You risk damaging the bearing this way and I would not recommend it at all. It's just way too easy to use a big bolt or hydraulic jack. (Into do it without risk).

You could build a frame with some heavy lumber or some angle iron or just drill a hole through 4-6 sheets of plywood to get a strong enough plate to push the 8-10T. Use of some release agent like liquid wrench should help a bunch.

I'm not saying you can't roll your own, I'm coming from the experience of shredding three pricy 3/4" hardened push rods (well lubricated).pressing out three X5 front bearings with heat.

The math worked out to about 17T of force to remove and 12T to install (heated knuckle to 240f or 115 c).

The back bearing only needs the hub pushed in and out and is comically easier, the 3/4" rod has maybe twice the power needed and my 1" machine made me laugh when I used with the impact.

I'm hoping to get my new front bearing and install today. I'm going to try liquid wrench and measure the torque to remove it. If I can get it off with less than 200 ft·lb I can measure the torque and calculate the force.

I made a roller bearing to assist but only used for installing as it's not originally designed for axial loading.

[cn90]

Andrew,

Glad you have the 1" threaded rod and you drilled the holes in the adapters bigger to accommodate the 1" threaded rod. Most people don't have access to 1" threaded rod, let alone drilling the holes bigger.

I am talking about the average Saturday mechanic with basic tools.

Re hammering the Outer race. I have replaced some AC Pulley bearings and other bearings by hammering on the Outer race (using the Old bearing as an "adapter"). Zero issues over the years.