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  #101  
Old 11-07-2017, 01:32 PM
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Here's a video of him using the punch to pop a press fit bearing out of a hub

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZDK4LyTkRg
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  #102  
Old 11-07-2017, 02:01 PM
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I love the hydraulic press.

If it was 20T I would have copied you. With only 10T that would have not gotten my bearing out based on the fact in spite of lubrication I stripped the crap out of a 3/4-16 hardened rod (proto tools).

I found a web calculator you can put in the torque applied and the thread size to calculate tensile force, the math worked out to about 33,000# remove and about 20,000 to install.

I didn't bother to freeze parts since I upgraded to the 1" bolt but I did apply heat to the knuckle while removing though I don't think it was needed.

Anybody using a threaded rod especially a 3/4-16 definitely use heat and cold to assist!

That was awesome to watch the hydraulic press just silently push in that frozen bearing. Five stars!

When pressing in the hub I use a small press plate so it's only pushing on the inner race of the bearing so there is no significant force on the bearings just the hub and inner race.

I didn't need to chill the hub with my upgraded press (now good for 28 tons). Nor did I freeze the bearing this time around. It probably takes about 15T to press in and 20T to press out without heat and cold. I've seen posts where people could not press out the bearing with a 20T hydraulic press (but clearly not heat because I've removed two with on the order of 15T)

Op: how close are you to Tampa? I have a brother in Tampa I could work out a loaner situation for the bearing press. Do you have access to a high torque impact or high strength ratchet (ideally 3/4 drive)?
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  #103  
Old 11-07-2017, 05:20 PM
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My 20 ton press was NOT happy pressing the hub out on mine. It did it and sounding like a gun going off when it finally let go and came out. So a 10 ton would not of removed mine either.
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  #104  
Old 11-07-2017, 07:51 PM
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The freezer trick does wonders! My freezer has a minimum temp of -10F and I usually keep it -2 but bumped it down to freeze the bearings pre 1" upgrade. I measured about 3mil shrink in the size of the bearing and it HALVED the effort of install vs removal! I also froze the hub with dry ice the first bearing I did but after I realized you are only pulling out one half of the inner race I didn't bother on the last times.


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  #105  
Old 11-07-2017, 08:17 PM
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Front Wheel Bearing R&R

The gun sound I'm very familiar. I preloaded about 33,000# and nothing was happening. (other than slowly stripping the push rod). I then heated up the carrier knuckle up to about 240F and B A N G! Scared the shit out of me. Worse it was about 9pm working outside. I figured out it had to be the bearing finally slipping about 0.001". Just like an earthquake. Stress builds then releases. While hot I started to turn the bolt with a ratchet with about 30" handle and most of my body weight. Every 1-2" down on the handle another BANG BANG BANG. Knuckle cooled off and then it could hold my entire body weight (180) at 2.5' (450 ftlb) way more than a 3/4-16 can handle (as evidenced by the smooth appearance after I rounded off all the threads).

Another round of heating back to 240F and I could turn the bolt again (i had to add some spacers to find a non smooth part of the bolt). The second round of heating the bearing was maybe 5/16 " out and taking less and less effort and the bangs happened every 1/2" or so of travel (30" away). A few minutes of bangbangbangbangbangbang and off it came.

The rod was TOAST. I had to buy a new rod to install. Fortunately with freezing the bearing and a touch of oil It goes in with half the force.

I was very glad even with self destructing the prime mover I was able to learn more than had it been too easy.

I did my wife's car first and it previously had cv replaced so not factory axle nuts and my baby torque took them off. My car with 16 yr old factory axle nuts: different story 4# hammer end of a breaker bar wasn't happening at all. I bought a decent hardened rod but 3/4-16 grade 8 is good for about 33,000# just about exactly what the math worked out to and I stripped yet another.

With 8 bearings between our two x5 and having 9 brothers and sisters I figured I'll beef up the thing and never have that problem again.

Now even with my 700 ftlb impact wrench I can't over torque the 1" bolt designed for 750 ftlb (at which 62,000). Means I can apply about 56,000# hundreds of times without wear as I'm operating well within design limits. After pushing out and in the last bearing the drive bolt looks new. Operates a little smoother even (nut will soon down the bolt by hand).

I've seen people make up a redneck bearing puller with stock cast plumbing parts (steel nipple, flanges) and if you could get enough layers of iron between the outside pipe and the bolt, you could make a puller for $20. If you have access to a lathe, copy upallnight with the beautiful aluminum slugs but use a 1" hole so you can get fierce pushing force. Even by hand I think 40,000# would be easy. Fine threads theoretically make it easier to turn but they add friction so you might do better with coarse.

7/8-14 grade 8 lubricated is 500 ftlb and 46,000 # force. Numbers a little easier to achieve than the 1" bolt 765 ftlb max torque. I just wanted something stronger than my impact wrench so I'd stop braking it twice per bearing.

Now if I was still having problems and if I could find one, a left thread 1-3/16 bolt I could turn to 1100 ftlb (my impact wrench can hit harder lefter) I could achieve 74,000#.

I was suitably impressed how hard the tool had to work at 700 ftlb to push off the last bearing. Chewed through most of a battery and I had to go get ear muffs it was too long too loud but other than having to hold the nut back from turning with seriously 8x the most I've ever had to do, I just watched and it did. A minute or two of 110-120 dB banging of the Impact and bearing dropped in my hand.

Going on was a cake walk. I didn't even freeze the bearing nor heat the knuckle. It might have taken 20-25T but it just eased right in. Maybe a minute. Pressing the hub in was very fast. Took longer to set up the machine (to make sure only pressing on the inner race) than actually push the hub into the bearing.

Anybody within a reasonable drive of SE Wis i would come visit with the press and the monster impact. I like to see it get some action.

I'm trying to invent a way to use it to push the hub off so i dont have to blow apart the dust shield every time. Maybe I can engineer a bracket that clamps around the inside of the knuckle once the axle is removed. That bracket has a fixed nut and I can push one of my smaller plates on the hub from the inside. That probably only takes 4-6000# I can probably use the 3/4" pusher and just a ratchet.

Hmm. My next bearing is a rear. Brain is spinning. I'll share if I figure out a clean solution wo having to rent a slide hammer.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 11-07-2017 at 08:43 PM.
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  #106  
Old 01-26-2019, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby
...I am only disconnecting the strut for this repair to allow clearance to swing axle out of the way and get my bearing press kit behind the wheel carrier. All control arms are in place.

Bought this tool to press out the old bearing and press in the new:

...
Ricky or wheel bearing guru,

For the FRONT bearing, in order to press out the OUTER race (once the circlip is removed), what is the best removal kit?

On ebay/amazon, I see different kits such as 19-piece, 23-piece etc.

Can you post a photo or the exact kit for the FRONT bearing?

Thanks!

PS: Amazon has the "Orion Bearing Tool" for $65, does this work?



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  #107  
Old 01-27-2019, 02:09 AM
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None of the inexpensive kits will work properly as they all have the same fault: too small of a threaded rod..

That said any of the ones with the bigger plates will likely be a good starting off point.

I bought the kit that harbor freight sells. I got it like 30% off because somebody stripped the bolt trying to remove the likes of an X5 bearing.

I drilled out the holes on the 5 biggest plates to 1" and bought a pair of 1" grade 8 fine pitch bolts for about $6 each off Amazon.

That boosted the capability 23,000# to 62,000# and it'll push the bearing out with no difficulty.

(It takes about 35,000# to remove about 25,009# to install)
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  #108  
Old 01-27-2019, 02:16 AM
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Some other tips:

I use some long M14 bolts to push off the hub. Grind the end to a bit of a cone so you won't damage the threads.

Use a plate of steel behind the hub to push against.

This will self-destruct the dust cap behind the hub. I replace the cap whenever I do a bearing. It helps me keep track which bearings I've replaced (4 of 8 between me and wife).

Get a oil sintered bronze bushing 1/4" thick. Thinner it will squirt out like clay under 35,000# of force. I might have photos of that : it came out from under the bolt head in pizza wedge shapes.

Heat up the knuckle with a torch to about 250-300F it will help a bit but if you have enough power (my big impact is good for 750 ftlb of torque) you won't need the heat.
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  #109  
Old 01-27-2019, 05:57 PM
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On the issue of heat...

1. INNER Race and Hub:

- The Oxy-acetylene torch will take care of it!
- Problem is: most of us do not have Oxy-acetylene torch.
- I only have Propane torch, the stuff plumbers use for home plumbing.

Video of INNER race and Hub, the Oxy-acetylene torch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hys-0NWDL1w


2. OUTER Race and Spindle:

- Has anyone tried heat? Some people put a bead on the OUTER Race!
https://app.aws.org/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=9540

- How about COLD stuff like CRC Freeze-Off can to shrink the Outer Race?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULXahcy0CO0
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Last edited by cn90; 01-27-2019 at 06:42 PM.
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  #110  
Old 01-27-2019, 06:16 PM
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I've used dry ice (far far colder than -14 of typical feeeze liquid) but I will try the torch method to remove that sticky inner race I usually cut it off with a right angle grinder and chisel. I have MAP torch not as hot as oxy but should work great input!
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