Blue smoke on extended idle. 2006 4.8is.

[Naz24]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

not sure if you still are on 5w-30 man but I changed to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 and noticing no smoke even on extending idle (sometimes I leave the car running for a while when I go serve subpoenas or something)



Thinner the oil is the more gets past the seals/rings, that's why above someone said he switched to 5w-20 I was trying to say DONT DO THAT the thinner oil will smoke more

Interesting. I had my oil changed at BMW, so I assume they put in the standard 5w-30. On the next oil change, I will switch up to 5w-40. If I run low, would it hurt to top off with 5w-40 although there's 5w-30 in it now?

Ps-- BMW was running a $79 oil change special, for that price, how could I argue?

[pezho405]

What would happened if i were to use 0-40??

[Naz24]

Originally Posted by pezho405

What would happened if i were to use 0-40??

I had a friend who used that during the cold cold winters in his 4.8is. Not sure of the result, but I'm sure it can take the oil.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Naz24

Interesting. I had my oil changed at BMW, so I assume they put in the standard 5w-30. On the next oil change, I will switch up to 5w-40. If I run low, would it hurt to top off with 5w-40 although there's 5w-30 in it now?

Ps-- BMW was running a $79 oil change special, for that price, how could I argue?

you can top off with 5w-40 no harm in that. I always suspected that 5w-30 is a bit too light for our engines, all all my VW's I either used 5w-40 or mobil 1 0w-40 never went down to a 30 weight.

[roadriderg]

Originally Posted by BigBlack48is

Not just valve seals according to his guy ( who sounds like he really knows what's going on with our N62's ).... This means in order to properly fix BM@'s mistake we will need to basically pull off our heads and do a complete overhaul, since we've been burning oil and it's going to be a complete mess in there. Then after we dis-assemble them, clean them, replace our valve seals ( and possibly valve guides ), then we can fix the real problem.... lack of proper oil return galley's!

So disappointing

Next time I am in I will find out how much larger he reams the oil holes over stock.

And yes, VERY DISAPPOINTING!!! How long have engines been built with valve guides and seals to know just what is needed? Did they under engineer or use a bad stock of seals and guides?

[4.8isX5]

Ok guys heres the fix thats so far working for me!

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...smoke-fix.html

[BigBlack48is]

10w40 is not recommended for year round use in our picky BM& N62's

I am starting to think that 5w40 is the secret.... Too bad I have a couple of gallons of RP 5w30, I have to use up before I try the 5w40 theory! At least I picked them up for $16 / gallon at meijers on clearance

[danielsan]

I was thinking when i had my old LS1 engine rebuilt the shop that did it advised not to run a synthetic oil for the first 5,000kms to allow all the rings and seals to bed in properly.

I'm wondering if running a synthetic oil during the break in period of these engines is what's causing alot of these seal issues as they age?

[4.8isX5]

I've seen stuff here and there about what you've said but by this day and age i think synthetics have been designed with problems like that worked out... But theres always a chance of maybe it does cause it, then again,

Wouldnt this be happening to all the other bmws benzs audis etc that call for synths?

[JCL]

Originally Posted by danielsan

I was thinking when i had my old LS1 engine rebuilt the shop that did it advised not to run a synthetic oil for the first 5,000kms to allow all the rings and seals to bed in properly.

I'm wondering if running a synthetic oil during the break in period of these engines is what's causing alot of these seal issues as they age?

You can use a modern synthetic from km zero. It isn't the oil that changed, but rather modern engine manufacturing processes. I recall the break in instructions from 30 years ago suggesting non synthetic oil. That has nothing to do with valve guides, but rather cylinder bore surface finish.