FIXED: Return of the P0171 and P0174

[diddy0071]

Originally Posted by upallnight

You could be getting the lean codes because the DME is shutting down the injectors to prevent you from destroying the trans with aggressive driving, however as you continue to drive the car, the DME is still monitoring the engine and with the injector(s) off you now have a "Lean" condition.

Don't drive aggressively and see if you still get the injector shutoff. From your previous video it looks like if you didn't drive aggressively the truck accelerated normal.

Edit:

When you replaced the fuel rail, did you replace all the o-rings on the injectors? Disturbing the old o-rings could also be a source of a vacuum leak. Any time I pull a fuel rail I would replace all the o-rings and put a little oil on the o-rings so they go back into the intake manifold easily.

No O-rings were replaced, unfortunately. I am going to run the engine without any load (no driving, just start and giving it gas) and see what codes it throws at me if any, and what issues it gives me. More videos in the afternoon after work.

The codes from last time the cog yellow light came on was:

P0732, P0102, P0500

Right now, the only codes are P0171, P0174.

[bcredliner]

If the symptoms are the same as well as the codes, I would first expect it to be the same cause. First, I would eliminate that it is a repeat of the same problem or some other problem generating the same results. It could be the same problem for the same or other reasons or something you did not do or did incorrectly associated with the fuel pump change. If you don't have the appropriate code reader yet, First, I would test fuel pressure as per Upallnight's suggestion. As an example, it could be something in the fuel that has been caused the fuel pump to lose pressure--perhaps clogged--then and now.

If the test you intend to do, is under no load or you tack it up slowly it may appear to act normally and throw no codes. I suggest doing both revving quickly and slowly and checking for codes in between and erase any that are there before the second test.

[upallnight]

Since he took out the fuel injectors, but didn't replace the o-rings they could be the source of the new lean codes. Rubber o-ring get hard with age along with the heat and cold cycle of an engine.

I would have replaced all the o-rings (they are not that expensive) but that just me.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by diddy0071

No O-rings were replaced, unfortunately. I am going to run the engine without any load (no driving, just start and giving it gas) and see what codes it throws at me if any, and what issues it gives me. More videos in the afternoon after work.

The codes from last time the cog yellow light came on was:

P0732, P0102, P0500

Right now, the only codes are P0171, P0174.

P0732 is detected when A/T cannot be shifted to the 2nd gear position even if electrical circuit is good.
Possible causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty Shift Solenoids
- Shift Solenoids harness is open or shorted
- Shift Solenoids circuit poot electrical connection
- Transmission mechanical problems
- Transmission hydraulic control circuit.

P0500 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is not reading (functioning) properly.
There is a broken/frayed wire leading to the vehicle speed sensor

Causes: A code P0500 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is not reading (functioning) properly
There is a broken/frayed wire leading to the vehicle speed sensor
The vehicle's PCM is not correctly configured for the actual tire size on the vehicle

Possible Solutions The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Next, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the speed sensor. The location of the sensor depends on your vehicle. The sensor could be on the rear axle, transmission, or perhaps the wheel hub (brake) assembly. If the wiring and connectors are OK, then check the voltage at the speed sensor. Again, the exact procedure will depend on your make and model of vehicle. If everything looks OK, replace the sensor.

GL

[TerminatorX5]

ahhh... speed sensor... that could be an issue... there is another thread going on right now about the speed sensor as well... you need to test if the speed sensor is reporting to the ABS module... there are pinouts of the ABS plug out there, i even posted it once... need to search the posts to find it...

diddy, do you have a multimeter that can measure a diode? that is what a bmw speed sensor is, a Hall effect sensor based on magnetic field and a diode...

[J.Belknap]

Originally Posted by diddy0071

No O-rings were replaced

I'd do that first.

Along with the T-stat and T-stat o-ring that you need.

[diddy0071]

Originally Posted by upallnight

P0732 is detected when A/T cannot be shifted to the 2nd gear position even if electrical circuit is good.
Possible causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty Shift Solenoids
- Shift Solenoids harness is open or shorted
- Shift Solenoids circuit poot electrical connection
- Transmission mechanical problems
- Transmission hydraulic control circuit.

P0500 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is not reading (functioning) properly.
There is a broken/frayed wire leading to the vehicle speed sensor

Causes: A code P0500 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is not reading (functioning) properly
There is a broken/frayed wire leading to the vehicle speed sensor
The vehicle's PCM is not correctly configured for the actual tire size on the vehicle

Possible Solutions The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Next, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the speed sensor. The location of the sensor depends on your vehicle. The sensor could be on the rear axle, transmission, or perhaps the wheel hub (brake) assembly. If the wiring and connectors are OK, then check the voltage at the speed sensor. Again, the exact procedure will depend on your make and model of vehicle. If everything looks OK, replace the sensor.

GL

These were only the codes that came up last time (Original thread) None of those have come up since.

[diddy0071]

Originally Posted by TerminatorX5

ahhh... speed sensor... that could be an issue... there is another thread going on right now about the speed sensor as well... you need to test if the speed sensor is reporting to the ABS module... there are pinouts of the ABS plug out there, i even posted it once... need to search the posts to find it...

diddy, do you have a multimeter that can measure a diode? that is what a bmw speed sensor is, a Hall effect sensor based on magnetic field and a diode...

I graduated heald in 2002 with an AA in Electronics Technology, and have the old Multimeter around to measure a diode, but I currently have no Speed sensor codes.

[bcredliner]

As I understand, you are having the same symptoms as before. If that is the case, IMO you should eliminate that it is the same problem for the same reason then check if it is the same problem for a different reason(s) as that is the greatest probability.

I understand you would be ignoring the new codes but the same symtoms for an entirely different cause has very low probability. If that is reality there must be an explanation why the symptoms went away after the fuel pump change was done when that was not the problem or at least closely associated.

[diddy0071]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

As I understand, you are having the same symptoms as before. If that is the case, IMO you should eliminate that it is the same problem for the same reason then check if it is the same problem for a different reason(s) as that is the greatest probability.

I understand you would be ignoring the new codes but the same symtoms for an entirely different cause has very low probability. If that is reality there must be an explanation why the symptoms went away after the fuel pump change was done when that was not the problem or at least closely associated.

The only codes I have are P0171, P0174. The Symptoms are the same as last time. The fuel pump fixed the issue completely last time. After the fix, the fuel rail and fuel filter was replaced. Only about a week ago did the symptoms of the hard to start begin to occur, and finally after pumping a full tank of gas did the issue re-occur from before with the codes. I am going to do a diagnostic as before and rule out both fuel pressure and vacuum leaks (if possible). If it turns out to be one of those 2, then I found the problem, and thus will fix it. Hoping for the best.