x5 front shock replacement -help please

[Russianblue]

is removing the strut as simple as it looks? as in...no brake caliper removal or any of the steering knuckle bits? when i changed my cv's i seem to remember thinking it could be rather simple. but these things never are.

i'm going to buy a nice spring compressor this time.

[Ricky Bobby]

I would probably just unclip the sensors that are attached to the bracket on the top 22mm bolt of the bottom of the strut to get more "wiring room", but I replaced my wheel bearings and axle boots on the X with just disconnecting the bottom of the strut from the knuckle, the knuckle swings downward quite a bit when the strut is disconnected.

I only had to remove the caliper and brake rotor because I needed the room for the CV axle to swing sideways to get the outer joints off, if I was only changing struts, I doubt I would have had to take off either.

[bcredliner]

If you don't have a spring compressor you can rent one at many auto parts stores. You can do this job with hand tools if need be. Whenever I don't have a wrench long enough to break something loose and can't use a impact wrench where an impact wrench is appropriate, I try using my legs on the wrench, usually enough unless it is seized--should use a 6 point wrench.

I often use the DIY labor cost I am saving to invest in tools in tools I need--great justification.

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

I really can't see how removing that with an impact would do anything to the hat. But installing, I would have to agree, plus those are usually not torqued to anything at all.

Also, if you are removing that, chances are you are replacing it, so the presumption is that who cares if you break the valve.

There was a poster on Bimmerforums who had the Alum hat crack when he used an impact tool to remove the shaft nut (the hat was still mounted to the chassis strut tower).

In a DIY thread, when the OP is being directed to use an impact tool to remove a fastener without any direction on proper reinstallation, snapped shaft threads and distroyed replacement strut foot valves are SURE to follow.

The shaft nut is only torqued to 45 ft/lbs, WAY less then most impact guns.

Strut/shock manufacturers even warn that warranty coverage will not cover snapped shaft thread area OR distroyed foot valves.

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

.....I often use the DIY labor cost I am saving to invest in tools in tools I need--great justification.

+1. I look at tool costs the exact same way.

Even home maintainence, why spend $1000 to have trees trimmed/thinned/carted off when I can spend less, DIY, pay to have debris carted off and have a kick-ass $650 Husqvarna chain saw for future use.

More Power....arg arg arg.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

+1. I look at tool costs the exact same way.

Even home maintainence, why spend $1000 to have trees trimmed/thinned/carted off when I can spend less, DIY, pay to have debris carted off and have a kick-ass $650 Husqvarna chain saw for future use.

More Power....arg arg arg.

Same here on my house, I have a 50cc Poulan (now owned by Husqvarna, same saw as the 450 Rancher just half the price!) saw which is a workhorse for my 2 acres of property with all the cutting and work I use it for. Paid 200 bucks before Sandy and its payed for itself 5 times within a year.


Now instead of paying for debris to be carted, we need to rent one of these to mulch it up ARG ARG ARG

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

.....Now instead of paying for debris to be carted, we need to rent one of these to mulch it up ARG ARG ARG

Hahaha, the thought crossed my mind when I did major tree thinning last year.

When I bought my first Florida home (St Pete) back in the '90s, I did MAJOR tree trimming (11 huge Southern Oaks, no braches within 12 ft of ground/house), called a carting service to come out and quote debris removal, they saw the pile and told me they've been carting for over 20 yrs and had NEVER seen a homeowner remove so much. Arg Arg Arg.

[SlickGT1]

The only sensor to unclip from the strut is the brake line. I know not a sensor. The other two are attached to the metal bracket. I just removed the bolt, and took the bracket off with the wires still attached. Otherwise, yea, simple job, just about the same as most BMW, except this one has an air line on my car.

[kevinkay]

Like to hear if you all change the mounts and bump stops when you did your struts. Also at what miles did you do struts and if you noticed a great improvement. I am at 140k and need new tires, figuring to do the struts before getting the tires and aligned, overall no complaints on the ride - hope I realize how bad they were after I drive with new struts.
Also, shouldn't you mark the mount bolts to try and get them close not to throw off the alignment??

[bcredliner]

I replace the bump stops--simple and not expensive. They may come with the strut. I replace the strut mount if the failure was catastrophic otherwise no. I always replace the bearing seat assembly.

At 140K, if the rest of the suspension has not been rebuilt it is due. If budget allows it is better to do it all at one time to save time and cost of multiple disassembly and alignments.

You will notice a firmer ride but as long as strut is OEM or OE it won't be drastic-only more firm because it is new. If you rebuild the entire suspension it will feel much better. It will drive like knew and you will feel more in control.

I mark the locations but I have forgotten and just eyeball it as I have it aligned in the next day or two anyway.