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  #31  
Old 10-31-2013, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doru View Post
Read this. Pay attention to mode 3,4 and 5
Yes, the end result of CCV issues undressed for extended period of time could result in hydrolock. I should have expanded as to why OP does not need to be concerned. I was posting to OP who is already addressing early CCV symptoms, therefore, there is no need to go ape s**t fearing hydrolock.

Prior to hydrolock there would be obvious symptoms for an extended period of time (as OP is experiencing and as listed in 3-4-5 of your link). In theory CCV related hydrolock is possible. In reality---? Maybe an owner that is still trying to ride his bicycle not noticing 2 flat tires and the training wheels have fallen off?

Some posts stating the possibility of disasters like hydrolock sound like scare tactics. I think they should include expanded explanations (similar to what you have now posted) about the extent of the circumstances--time and preceding symptoms. It may not have been your intention so I let it go.

Simply---CCV problems should be addressed ASAP. They are never a good thing and left unattended often develop into more serious problems.

All that said, that was not the subject of the quote in your post. That post was asking how a CCV problem can empty the crankcase in 20-30 seconds. My intention was to be respectful by asking. Addressing the post straight on-- I don't see how there is any way the CCV system can empty the crankcase in 20-30 seconds. Even if the engine has been modified resulting in an inadequate CCV system plus boosted to the point it causes severe reverse vacuum, I don't see how resulting problems would empty crankcase in 20-30 seconds. In theory--?. In reality-?????????
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  #32  
Old 10-31-2013, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by A B Able Truck View Post
Good example. Have seen that video. I have not said CCV related hydrolock can't happen. I am saying I believe there will be other symptoms that should be noticed long before that happens. I would have liked to have heard if there was any warning signs or if the engine went from all is well to gone to hell before it could be shut off.
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  #33  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
Good example. Have seen that video. I have not said CCV related hydrolock can't happen. I am saying I believe there will be other symptoms that should be noticed long before that happens. I would have liked to have heard if there was any warning signs or if the engine went from all is well to gone to hell before it could be shut off.
thanks for the chimes fellas, yes i saw that video too. It's gruesome. Anyhow, my leak was going on for a while, i figured by now, there should be some oil in the plugs, but the mech said there was no oil on plugs, although the VCG was brittle plastic and came off in thousands of pieces, along with the oil filter housing gasket-this was stiff about to get brittle.
After this replacement along with the exp tank, cooling temp sensor, my SES came on. This morning, SES still on + rough idle/warm up until dropped to 600-800, then engine smoothed out. do you guys there's a vacuum leak or issue with the plugs? The mech said ccv looks, sounds good. no smoke coming from exhaust.
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  #34  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:22 PM
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A B Able Truck

I don't think this is hijacking the thread but if you think it is please send me a PM.

My 4.6 engine is modified with all Dinan had to offer other than the supercharger. I then added 150 shot of nitrous and methanol injection. I am thinking of adding an aftermarket catch can or cans to prevent compromised air/fuel mixture getting back to the engine through the CCV system. My question is twofold. Do you think one on the vacuum side will be accomplish my goal or because the nitrous is probably creating a positive vacuum under full throttle I should also have one on the air intake side?
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  #35  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:27 PM
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Perhaps it would have been more accurate for me to say hydrolock would occur in 20-30 seconds once the CCV malfunctioned and started to evacuate oil from the pan. But I don't think it would take too long to pull the available oil (when hot) out of the pan through the dipstick tube with full manifold vacuum. The real question becomes how much oil actually has to be in the combustion chamber before you start bending connecting rods - probably not very much.

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  #36  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:31 PM
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Check or have the engine checked for codes that should help you pinpoint the problem.
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  #37  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
A B Able Truck

I don't think this is hijacking the thread but if you think it is please send me a PM.

My 4.6 engine is modified with all Dinan had to offer other than the supercharger. I then added 150 shot of nitrous and methanol injection. I am thinking of adding an aftermarket catch can or cans to prevent compromised air/fuel mixture getting back to the engine through the CCV system. My question is twofold. Do you think one on the vacuum side will be accomplish my goal or because the nitrous is probably creating a positive vacuum under full throttle I should also have one on the air intake side?

I would think the vacuum side would be adequate. Even though your adding nitrous, you still have a vacuum inside the intake manifold. If you didn't , you would have air flowing backwards through air filter, as opposed to supercharger or turbocharger that can create a positive pressure in the intake manifold.

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  #38  
Old 10-31-2013, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
A B Able Truck
I don't think this is hijacking the thread but if you think it is please send me a PM.
My 4.6 engine is modified with all Dinan had to offer other than the supercharger. I then added 150 shot of nitrous and methanol injection. I am thinking of adding an aftermarket catch can or cans to prevent compromised air/fuel mixture getting back to the engine through the CCV system. My question is twofold. Do you think one on the vacuum side will be accomplish my goal or because the nitrous is probably creating a positive vacuum under full throttle I should also have one on the air intake side?
- I would say 1 catch can should work, but if my understanding of your question is correct, I'd probably install a 1 way check valve at each valve cover outlet as a precaution. There are several 1/2 inch or better heavy duty diesel check valves available at a reasonable price.

- While we're hijacking threads, I just witnessed AGAs new N62 valve seal replacement tool. You do not have to remove the cams (intake or exhaust).
Amazing - that guy is going to make bank selling that tool.
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  #39  
Old 10-31-2013, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srmmmm View Post
Perhaps it would have been more accurate for me to say hydrolock would occur in 20-30 seconds once the CCV malfunctioned and started to evacuate oil from the pan. But I don't think it would take too long to pull the available oil (when hot) out of the pan through the dipstick tube with full manifold vacuum. The real question becomes how much oil actually has to be in the combustion chamber before you start bending connecting rods - probably not very much.

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Sorry if I sound contrary. Are you sure that once it starts pulling oil from the pan it will hydrolock in 20-30 seconds? I can say I don't know how long it would take or if there would be enough warning to keep it from happening. I would like to know the answer.

My shade tree logic says, because of what I have done to my engine, I am more likely to have CCV issues. In addition, it concludes that the potential for hydrolock is greater and it would happen faster.

As an example, in a stock engine, is there a 2% or 80% chance that unaddressed CCV problems will result in CCV related hydrolock. Is there a 95% or 5% chance if it happens there will be no noticeable symptoms the CCV system is faulty. Is there a 40% or 100% chance the will be no warning signs soon enough to prevent major engine damage. At this point my percentages are all on the very low side. Am I in la-la land?
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  #40  
Old 10-31-2013, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A B Able Truck View Post
- I would say 1 catch can should work, but if my understanding of your question is correct, I'd probably install a 1 way check valve at each valve cover outlet as a precaution. There are several 1/2 inch or better heavy duty diesel check valves available at a reasonable price.

- While we're hijacking threads, I just witnessed AGAs new N62 valve seal replacement tool. You do not have to remove the cams (intake or exhaust).
Amazing - that guy is going to make bank selling that tool.
Anything that makes valve seal replacement easier is a good hijack.

Catch can input makes great sense--thanks.
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