Oil Catch Can project

[Doru]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

I don't recall reading a post where someone installed the entire cold cure, including the dipstick 2-3 years ago and not had a problem since, did you find anything along that order?

After the 1st CCV failed in -60°F temps, I still have the WHOLE winter CCV setup working OK since February 2008. So, here is a testimony that the new dipstick guide works. That's on a M54B30 engine.

Catch can or CCV is the question....

I am still holding off on the catch can idea. There 2 (maybe 3) points of interest in this whole setup that put brakes on this project:

1. Low tension piston rings. Apparently A properly functioning pressure control valve is designed to maintain a slight vacuum (approximately 10 - 15 mbar ) in the crankcase which assures reliable crankcase venting during all engine operating conditions (this s very important)
2. A properly functioning crankcase valve. A PCV valve might not pull the trick. The PCV valve will open at a preset pressure and stay open until the pressure drops. Meaning that it can allow higher than 10-15 mbar? One could replace the OEM CCV unit with a Mann-Hummel unit, which has basically the SAME specs as the OE BMW CCV. The Mann-Hummel unit comes in 2 different flavors and each flavor has different sizes meant for different engine displacements. The 1,000,000 $ question is: will this unit also freeze? (Same principle / different design).
3. You have to stick with the SAME (or sensibly close) inner ID of the plumbing (it will wreck havoc with the required engine vacuum). I am still thinking on ways how to approach the CCV issue, and every time I thought I found the answer, I came to screeching halt by unforeseen issues. Maybe this is why Gary has trouble launching his CCV. For consistent inner ID, I found the OEM clamps sold separately, which in turn can accommodate the correct hoses for plumbing. I purchased a set from this source from E-bay . Here are some pics:

[Doru]

To help the CCV last longer, and also the engine, while using the OE CCV setup, here is what I do (we have really long & cold winters):

1. Once the temps drop below freezing have a cardboard placed in front of the radiator
2. After the car is started, turn the heating off, turn Test #7 on to see the KTMP. Drive until the KTMP reaches 85°C (or better, if you can hold on). KTMP will climb really fast with the heater core turned off. Once you have more than 85°C, you can turn on the cabin heat. You will see a 10°C sudden temp drop (or better), but the bulk of coolant reached higher temps, and it will warm up really fast
3. have the vehicle garaged at all times if you can help it during the cold months. I have a garage, and at work it's parked in an underground parkade, which helps a lot.

I'm on the same cold climate CCV (including re-designed dipstick guide) since February 2008. I will prolly need a new kit soon (preventative) - I don't think that rubber membrane of the CCV lasts forever. But only 2 or 3 years out of a CCV is too short.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Doru

To help the CCV last longer, and also the engine, while using the OE CCV setup, here is what I do (we have really long & cold winters):

1. Once the temps drop below freezing have a cardboard placed in front of the radiator
2. After the car is started, turn the heating off, turn Test #7 on to see the KTMP. Drive until the KTMP reaches 85°C (or better, if you can hold on). KTMP will climb really fast with the heater core turned off. Once you have more than 85°C, you can turn on the cabin heat. You will see a 10°C sudden temp drop (or better), but the bulk of coolant reached higher temps, and it will warm up really fast
3. have the vehicle garaged at all times if you can help it during the cold months. I have a garage, and at work it's parked in an underground parkade, which helps a lot.

I'm on the same cold climate CCV (including re-designed dipstick guide) since February 2008. I will prolly need a new kit soon (preventative) - I don't think that rubber membrane of the CCV lasts forever. But only 2 or 3 years out of a CCV is too short.

Dorin THANK YOU for chiming in here, I know you know this engine very well, and I also suspected Gary @ GAS was stalling his project because of issues related to crankcase vaccuum as well. 2 very good tips for winter btw!

I will have to think about the cardboard in front of radiator or at least turning off the cabin heat until the coolant is warm, great idea (the latter I probably will do for sure). I also agree that if you are running on 6 years on the OEM cold weather CCV then that is good lifespan, my valve just might be original on my car so it is way overdue for replacement, but I think the key here is if you do the OEM CCV cold weather kit, don't forget the cold weather dipstick tube, as many do forget about it!

[davintosh]

Thanks, RB; I didn't realize the dipstick tube was such a key part of the cold weather kit. Makes me wonder what was changed in that update... Is there a way to tell if the one installed is the new or old? I dug through the maintenance history on our X5 and found a note from March of 2008 where the shop, "Installed heated intake manifold, newer dipstick and modified stick tube," when the owner reported an oil leak and smoke from the engine bay. I'm guessing it's the new tube, but there's no part number listed so it's just a guess. Do you know of any photos of the old style that might be lurking around? I've looked & came up with about nothin.

If it was the new tube that was installed, it's not a panacea; the valve cover, gasket, oil separator & hoses, and the alternator were replaced on mine again in Feb. 2012.

[Ricky Bobby]

I'd think it would be tough to tell as prob the shape is the same. It's the internal drain which looks different as far as I can tell.

My ecs order containing my parts shipped out today so when I do this repair I will take a pic of old dipstick tube next to the new, to see if there are any visual changes.

In any event like has been mentioned, for long term use in cold weather it's best to avoid short trips and run the engine hotter if can be. I find myself keeping the car in 4th gear on the highway on the drive home from work so she is nice and warm when I get home

Cross your fingers I make it out to work and back ok tomorrow, I had intended to park the X until doing my CCV but the wife has a meeting tomorrow and I have to take my own car to work.

[BigBlack48is]

So any updates on the catch can experiments going on with this thread?

I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on a can and give a try, but i would like some more long term feeback on it pleeeease??

[puddinboo]

I`m in the same boat now. just bypass the the valve and install catch can or is there something I`m missing?

[Green Dragon]

I will get in touch with G.A.S. to see whats going on with their Serviceable CCV kit beta test. I have not heard from them in a while. I see if I can put some heat under them to move on the project. When I spoke to Gary during the winter, he acknowledged that they were behind the eight-ball on the project. I will update this soon.

As far as a catch-can project, there is a multitude of information on other forums. Spend some time reading. If you want to give it a shot, don't go with a catch can that vents to atmosphere. With the M54, it been reported this can cause ring flutter. It must be closed system so that pressures/vacuums are balanced. If it wasn't for the German Auto Solutions kit possibly near completion, I would have implemented a catch-can already.

[puddinboo]

thx for the reply greendragon, I see some catch cans around that have 2 lines going to top of catch can and a clear hose along side of it so you can tell how much oil it is collecting. I was wondering if you need some type of small pcv attached to it. like the older chevs had on top of the valve covers?

[Riggodeaux]

GD, thanks for following up with G.A.S. I'm not having CCV trouble [replacement done before I bought mine], but am ready to go on this as a preventive measure, given the M54s' history on this issue.