Short Shift Kit & Clutch Delay Valve fix

[Riggodeaux]

Its one heckuva road trip, and I'm sure there are local, Milwaukee, or Chicagoland indy shops that can do the work well. I made practically that trip [one way] when I bought at a F350 7.3L 4x4 truck w/ZF six speed tranny at the big truck dealer in Fond du Lac. UUC Rob can be a little superficial - see if you can talk to the tech who actually did my install. Our vehicles are rare enough I'm sure he'll remember mine from November .....

[GRBE53]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

I'll let Riggo chime in but he is pretty quick.

Since UUC billed 6 hours just for the SSK install, my humble opinion is that they did the install "by the book", dropped the driveshaft, transfer case, etc, and probably lowered the trans itself, to give a wide open tunnel and view of the linkage.

I'm sure if I had wide open access from the side of the pin if everything was dropped I could have gotten it out, but I don't have a lift.

It's VERY doable with the carrier in the car, you just have to unbolt the front mount which is secured with 2 bolts directly in front of the shift knob.

Point is, I would try to remove the carrier by letting the pins loose on top of the trans, if they are stuck, then go to Plan B which is take off front mount and secure height adapter from inside the car.

I have been mulling that over - go for plan A and switch if needed. My concern is that my stock shifter is pretty sloppy and while I was feeling around doing my CDV, I am fairly certain I could feel some play at the front end of the carrier. I know the bushings are apparently not prone to wear so I don't know if steeping in salt for 6 months a year up here might result in more wear than some others have experienced? Point being, while I am at it, I would really want to replace anything that has any sign of wear.

[GRBE53]

Originally Posted by Riggodeaux

Its one heckuva road trip, and I'm sure there are local, Milwaukee, or Chicagoland indy shops that can do the work well. I made practically that trip [one way] when I bought at a F350 7.3L 4x4 truck w/ZF six speed tranny at the big truck dealer in Fond du Lac. UUC Rob can be a little superficial - see if you can talk to the tech who actually did my install. Our vehicles are rare enough I'm sure he'll remember mine from November .....

No kidding! I wouldn't consider it for the single purpose of the SSK install. I can make some useful work visits along the way - swing by Tire Rack in South Bend for new tires which I need anyway and also take a break form the air travel nightmare that this year has been so far. I routinely rack up 1000-1500 miles on a rental in a work week anyway. I was also thinking I might be able to meet up with you to scope out your suspension - I am considering 'de-sporting' my shocks and springs and you had mentioned in another thread that yours is tight but tolerable with sport components in good condition.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by GRBE53

I have been mulling that over - go for plan A and switch if needed. My concern is that my stock shifter is pretty sloppy and while I was feeling around doing my CDV, I am fairly certain I could feel some play at the front end of the carrier. I know the bushings are apparently not prone to wear so I don't know if steeping in salt for 6 months a year up here might result in more wear than some others have experienced? Point being, while I am at it, I would really want to replace anything that has any sign of wear.

Since I bought a pair of stock bushings to replace on the front of the carrier, I can give you my opinion. It would have been nice to put fresh stock bushings in, but there has to be a bit of movement allowed on the shift carrier. The stock bushings seem to be more than just rubber, I believe they are rubber wrapped steel bushings, and there is a bit of play, but nothing major. I don't believe mine are worn much at all.

As well, you'll notice the rear of the carrier is held in by a bushing/bracket (one piece, I don't think the bushing is available separate), which allows some movement of the carrier. It's marked #4 in the below diagram (my 5 speed linkage). Older BMW's had a separate bushing part which is a popular replacement when aged, I did notice that the rubber bushing on mine had some flex in it, but other than buying a new one, and/or filling the voids in the bushing with urethane as well, it will still allow some flex in the rubber.



I think to truly eliminate all play in the carrier, you would have to get a new rear mount for the carrier, fill the bushing with urethane on both sides of it so its solid, and also make the bushings at the front solid with Delrin or similar.

But in my opinion the carrier does need some play when driving, due to shifts in the motor under load, etc. The trans is bolted down with mounts using rubber which allow for flex, etc and is not bolted down with solid mounts, if you make the shift carrier mounting solid like a rock with ZERO play whatsoever, but the stock motor and trans mountings are left as is, you'll have a carrier which doesnt move a mm, but a trans which flexes left/right and back/forth somewhat, and I don't think thats a good thing.

It's like the old adage on VW's, if you're doing the bottom motor mount (torque mount from engine to trans) alone and leaving the top 2 mounts stock, thats fine, as the bottom will be solidly secured. But if you do one side of the top motor mount with a solid mounting solution, and leave the other side stock, you will not only get a motor which flexes extremely to one side, but you'll wear out that last stock mount so quick.

I think the same goes for here, not sure what your mileage is, but the rear mount on my carrier looked fine, like I said perhaps it could be filled with some urethane to make it more solid. And the front bushings stayed as is.

You also have to remember that there is a large chance if you were to make both mountings of the carrier solid, that you could definitely transmit some NVH from the trans up to the cabin through the shift lever.


EDIT: If you wanted it to be "factory fresh", I'd recommend replacing #4 at time of SSK install. It is similar to an exhaust hanger, and after time I'm sure the rubber gets loose. The rear portion of the carrier just sits in it, and that bushing supports the entire rear linkage. I'm actually thinking of replacing mine as it looks to be $18 from the dealer and would be about 2 minutes of my time to pull up the shift boot, loosen the 2 - 13mm bolts, lower the carrier, slip the old bushing off, and slip the new one on and tighten up.

The rear mount for the shift carrier is same part # for both the 5-speed and 6-speed linkages I just checked.

Search SiteSearch 25111434625 - 25111434625 - SHIFT ARM - ES#46872

[GRBE53]

Thanks RB - lots to consider there. I am not really looking to make everything rock solid. Anecdotally, from an E34 I had years ago, an E60 and another manual E53 with lower mileage I drove when looking, mine just feels looser and less precise than it should in addition to the long throw. I don't think I would be interested in using Delrin or Eurothane - just refreshing with factory bushings. I have 119k. When I had the E34, I had an SSK(I don't remember which one) and either Delrin or UHMW bushings put in and I somewhat regretted the bushings - it did transmit more vibration.

[Ricky Bobby]

I would honestly say then just get a rear mount. Like I said its more of a hanger and at 20 bucks you can replace it whether or not you can get the front of the carrier off the trans or not.

If you do get the whole assembly off I have 2 brand new stock oval bushings you can have if you'd like to replace them. Since I couldn't get mine off they won't be used.

I have to take my console out to switch trims soon, so when I do I will replace the rear mount. I found a post today saying that the rear mount can't be solid, especially if the bushings up front are Delrin bc of the stress on the carrier, it has to be able to flex somewhat!

[Green Dragon]

Just wanted to send a teaser photo of my short shift project. I still need to bend an additional 15 sweep of the shifter and machine down my 3" extension about an inch to allow the knob adapter to drop an additional inch. My goal is to keep the shift height stock, and I think I've got a range adjustment of anywhere between 40% shorter throw and 20% increased throw beyond stock, all the while retaining stock height. I thought that would be a good starting point. I also added a steel coupler at the bottom above the pivot to strengthen the junction of the original steel shaft and the billet aluminum extension. It's a bit unnecessary, but this also allows me to shift some mass upward for feel and insure complete strength and integrity due to a steel aluminum connection.

Basically, pre-fitment into the X, all that was needed to make the Schiedmann to work was a 2" extension and an additional 15 degrees to the bend. Will know more later. Stay tuned........

[Ricky Bobby]

Looking forward to updates Ryan, sweet looking work you've done there!

I have ordered a new rear carrier mount (marked #4 on our shift diagram) as I feel the rubber bushing supporting the weight of the carrier definitely sags some over time, similar to an exhaust hanger. It's only 19 bucks so if it doesn't do anything positive for my newly installed UUC Evo3 at least I know its fresh. I have a feeling it will help with shift carrier movement however, and especially with the 1-2 and 3-4 shift action, as when you row in that action you are putting downward force on the carrier, if the bushing has sagged some over time due to age or mileage, the shift of the carrier could in fact make for a notchier shift.

Will update with my impressions, don't get me wrong I wouldn't get rid of this short shifter ever as its so smooth, but on spirited shifts I do notice some can be a bit notchier than others and I think its the rear mount allowing too much movement to the carrier and not making the shift as accurate as it should be. Everything is greased, lubed and adjusted perfect so its definitely not that, and as we know the dual bushings mounting the carrier to the top of the trans do not deteriorate as much to allow play up there.

[Riggodeaux]

Originally Posted by GRBE53

No kidding! I wouldn't consider it for the single purpose of the SSK install. I can make some useful work visits along the way - swing by Tire Rack in South Bend for new tires which I need anyway and also take a break form the air travel nightmare that this year has been so far. I routinely rack up 1000-1500 miles on a rental in a work week anyway. I was also thinking I might be able to meet up with you to scope out your suspension - I am considering 'de-sporting' my shocks and springs and you had mentioned in another thread that yours is tight but tolerable with sport components in good condition.

I personally like the Sport suspension settings, though I have limited experience driving comparison E53s without - a couple test rides and my S-in-L's 2001 3.0L automatic. If in ATL, you are welcome to try mine out. If you are a real sport, time your trip to end it with the local BMWCCA club's Road Atlanta driving course the weekend after Labor Day ..... bring the proper helmet [not a cheesehead .....]

[Gregory891]

UUC kit waiting for a warm (weather day), this Sunday was perfect. UUC short shifter installed. A few notes for those who have and will do this:

1) VERY easy to do, access is not an issue on an X5. Jack stands at the front and rear wheel chocks are fine.
2) Firm pulling will remove the shifter knob, it will surprise you when it comes off.
3) Removing the leather shifter boot is easy - careful removing it to avoid damaging the plastic clips (be gentle) on the frame underneath.
4) Removing the rubber boot from the old shifter boot is easy - don't use WD40. Use warm water and some dishwashing liquid. Same to add this (at the end) to the new UUC shifter. It's an old motorcycle grip trick.
5) Vaccuming all around is indeed a good idea.
6) Removing the aluminum shifter carrier was easy (in my case) and makes it easier to install the EVO3 collar than to try to do it "in situ".
7) It is (I can't recall which person suggested it) MUCH easier if you remove the rear shifter carrier holder. Two 13 or 14 mm nuts from the inside of the car - just in front of the shifter.
8) For ALL of the correspondence about the front carrier bushings (oval shape), please note that this part (bushing) is BMW 25 11 7 528 407. BMW calls it ultra-oval. The ultra-oval bushing is used on a number of BMW platforms.
It is NOT the same as the traditional UUC Delrin oval bushing. I have written Rob about this - to see if he does make this part.
8) Depending on your car, the front carrier is attached with a dual oval (super oval) bushing BUT with either one BIG clip or two small clips. Always two ultra-oval bushings.

Overall feel is definitely shorter, tighter and more pleasant. I also (like others) notice that the shifter points a bit further back. I have not yet adjusted the shifter height, and since it is supplied at the tallest, it is normal that it's further back. I have another idea on this. I'll check with Rob, more to come.

Bottom line: Just do it !