All in - pulling the 4.6 engine and trans to fix oil leaks once and for all

[stunt]

Haha, yes I think it will be plenty solid for my needs!

The 96" x 24" x 1.5" top was on sale at Sears for $179. Normally $249. I had most of the wood laying around except for a couple of the 2x6s, the 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF and fasteners. So I got a little over $300 in it total. Not bad I think.

I'll need to get the PVC pieces next to fabricate the tools to fully disassemble the carriers in my shop press.

[e30cabrio]

Very very nice!

I'm even jealous of your bench.

[stunt]

I worked on tearing down the transmission some more tonight. Here's what it looks like now:







The clutches, brakes and carriers



The pump. Everything came apart with a few easy blows with a plastic faced hammer, except for the bearing you see. I pressed that out using a 3/4" drive 1 1/8 socket. It was close to a perfect fit for the task.



Solenoids



Main valve body


Main plate. This thing is very nasty as seen by the dark surface



Pair of roller bearings that look to be in excellent shape





Now both planetary gears have these grooves in them. I *think* that's normal given how even they are across all 4 gears in both units.

EDIT: I'll have to inspect that nick below the red arrow. I just noticed that now from looking at my post.





Here's the output ball bearing. I need to pick up some "real" snap ring pliers to get these out. The assortment of what I currently have aren't up to the task.



So with the transmission almost completely torn down at this point, I haven't really come across anything obvious that would explain the failsafe message I was getting. Maybe as I complete the disassembly of the valve bodies I'll discover something, or maybe once I complete taking the carriers apart?

[knucklebuster]

Originally Posted by stunt

I worked on tearing down the transmission some more tonight. Here's what it looks like now:







The clutches, brakes and carriers



The pump. Everything came apart with a few easy blows with a plastic faced hammer, except for the bearing you see. I pressed that out using a 3/4" drive 1 1/8 socket. It was close to a perfect fit for the task.



Solenoids



Main valve body


Main plate. This thing is very nasty as seen by the dark surface



Pair of roller bearings that look to be in excellent shape





Now both planetary gears have these grooves in them. I *think* that's normal given how even they are across all 4 gears in both units.





Here's the output ball bearing. I need to pick up some "real" snap ring pliers to get these out. The assortment of what I currently have aren't up to the task.



So with the transmission almost completely torn down at this point, I haven't really come across anything obvious that would explain the failsafe message I was getting. Maybe as I complete the disassembly of the valve bodies I'll discover something, or maybe once I complete taking the carriers apart?

You Sir Have a big set of balls When Can I send Over Ours

[RRPhil]

Originally Posted by stunt

So with the transmission almost completely torn down at this point, I haven't really come across anything obvious that would explain the failsafe message I was getting. Maybe as I complete the disassembly of the valve bodies I'll discover something, or maybe once I complete taking the carriers apart?

Not sure what you mean by ‘carriers’. Obviously the next step is to get each of the six clutch pistons out to check their seals. Do the rest of the clutch plates look okay? You need to be careful to identify which way up the 1st gear sprag (one-way clutch) is so that you don’t reassemble it upside down resulting in it locking in the wrong direction.

Phil

P.S. The notches in the outside diameters of the gears are identification marks from the factory. When gears have been meshing together for thousands of miles it’s clearly important to reassemble them the same way around otherwise they have to bed in again and the result is noise.

[stunt]

Originally Posted by RRPhil

Not sure what you mean by ‘carriers’. Obviously the next step is to get each of the six clutch pistons out to check their seals.

Sorry, I meant cylinders.

Do the rest of the clutch plates look okay?

I haven't inspected them closely or measured yet, but they appear ok and all the metals have the machine marks clearly visible.

You need to be careful to identify which way up the 1st gear sprag (one-way clutch) is so that you don’t reassemble it upside down resulting in it locking in the wrong direction.

Thanks. Yes I noticed it would only turn in the one direction prior to dis-assembly.

P.S. The notches in the outside diameters of the gears are identification marks from the factory. When gears have been meshing together for thousands of miles it’s clearly important to reassemble them the same way around otherwise they have to bed in again and the result is noise.

Good deal, that's what I was hoping.

[Riggodeaux]

"Sir Have a big set of balls When Can I send Over Ours?"

Those pix, on that nice steel table, are world class car porn, for sure. I don't think I've ever seen an auto tranny broken down like that. Educational even for a shade tree guy like me who could never take on this project.

[e30cabrio]

Originally Posted by Riggodeaux

"Sir Have a big set of balls When Can I send Over Ours?"

Those pix, on that nice steel table, are world class car porn, for sure. I don't think I've ever seen an auto tranny broken down like that. Educational even for a shade tree guy like me who could never take on this project.

QFT & set to music!

AC/DC-Big Balls Music Video - YouTube

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by Riggodeaux

"Sir Have a big set of balls When Can I send Over Ours?"

Those pix, on that nice steel table, are world class car porn, for sure. I don't think I've ever seen an auto tranny broken down like that. Educational even for a shade tree guy like me who could never take on this project.

[stunt]

Stopped by Lowe's on my way home this afternoon and picked up a 3" and 4" PVC cleanout adapter as well as a 6" PVC sewer Tee.

I cut out both sides of the 3" cleanout adapter and pressed down the cup spring on brake F. The "legs" started to spread, so I used a c-clamp to prevent that from happening. Worked like a champ and it was $3.53!



I then used a pair of allen wrenches through the bolt holes to push out the piston. The sealing lip appears to be in good shape from what I can tell.



Using the same 3" cleanout adapter, I pressed down the cup spring for brake E and took out the split stop ring.



I then used compressed air to pop out piston E. The 2 O-rings appear to be in good shape but will of course be replaced anyway.



Clutch C was next, again using the 3" adapter.



Compressed air once again popped the piston right out and this O-ring also looks ok.



Next I pressed out the sun wheel shaft using a 1-1/8" 3/4" drive socket. The 2 O-rings and rectangular section rings looks ok.



Clutch B was up next. This time using the 4" cleanout adapter. Learning from my earlier mistake with the 3", I only cut out one side this time and sure enough, no need to use a C-clamp to keep the legs from spreading.



Compressed air once again popped out the piston. All 3 O-rings appear ok



Back to brake F, I removed the snap ring, but I'm not sure how to get out the roller bearing without damaging it. It's in there pretty good. It looks to be in good shape, but I figured it would be best to get out out before cleaning the parts.



The 6" PVC sewer tee was a little too big for pressing down the brake D cup spring. Tomorrow I'll pick up a 6" sewer pipe which I believe will be just right since it slips inside the tee. I'll also splurge and drop $3.53 for another 3" cleanout and cut out only 1 side for when it comes time to re-assemble as well as for pressing down the oil dam in clutch A.

Once I get piston D out, I can then inspect the 2 O-rings on it. And finally I can push out the busing from the D/E housing.

So still nothing obvious to explain the failsafe message but I still have pistons A and D to go as well as the valve body.