Just Bought an X5

[Bianca98]

Will a bad DISA give a major reduction in performance? Part of me says to just put in the 80 dollar rebuild, but I run the chance that the vacuum is bad and then it was a wasted 80 bucks. Or can I put the upgraded components in the Dorman DISA after using them in my original DISA? Something about the truck just isn't quite right yet. That's part of the reason I am starting the maintenance or upkeep cycle over, ignoring anything cheap the PO might have done.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Bianca98

Will a bad DISA give a major reduction in performance? Part of me says to just put in the 80 dollar rebuild, but I run the chance that the vacuum is bad and then it was a wasted 80 bucks. Or can I put the upgraded components in the Dorman DISA after using them in my original DISA? Something about the truck just isn't quite right yet. That's part of the reason I am starting the maintenance or upkeep cycle over, ignoring anything cheap the PO might have done.

Hey man. If your vaccuum pot is bad, the DISA is worthless.

Your video suggests the vaccuum pot is bad, but here's how to test.

-Close the flap manually by hand and and hold it closed
-Put your finger over the little hole on the vaccuum pot
-Let the flap go, it should spring back about 45 degrees. Normally if the vaccuum pot is open it springs back 90 degrees.

If nothing happens the vaccuum pot is shot and the rebuild kit won't help. The rebuild kit only fixes the main weak points and improves upon the major points of wear. I'd email Gary @ German Auto Solutions and see if the kit can be transferred to another DISA if yours is bad, the only thing I worry about is the flapper valve and bell crank lever are mated together with Red loc-tite, not sure how that would come apart when swapping to a new unit.

I caught my DISA early before too much wear (71k miles) so I just did preventative rebuild and expect it to be good another 10 years, looks like you weren't as lucky though.

[Bianca98]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Your video suggests the vaccuum pot is bad, but here's how to test.

See that's the thing, the only test I was able to was confirm that the gear is no longer functional. If I replace the gear and it works then I saved some money. If I replace the gear and then the vacuum pot is bad, well it was a waste of time and money.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Bianca98

See that's the thing, the only test I was able to was confirm that the gear is no longer functional. If I replace the gear and it works then I saved some money. If I replace the gear and then the vacuum pot is bad, well it was a waste of time and money.

Did you read the instructions on the link I sent as well as what I wrote out before? You can confirm whether the vaccuum pot is good or not very simply.

Perform the vaccuum pot test and if it fails you will need a new DISA. You can perform the test whether or not the "gear" (flapper?) is working or not.

[Bianca98]

Maybe I'm not getting it. If the flapper isn't connected to the gear or the gear is rounded off to the point of not operating the flapper (which I believe is what I diagnosed), how will covering the hole and adjusting a flapper that isn't connected to anything test the vacuum pressure? And in my video, I am trying to test for vacuum. My finger is on the hole, flapper has no spring action at all.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by Bianca98

Maybe I'm not getting it. If the flapper isn't connected to the gear or the gear is rounded off to the point of not operating the flapper (which I believe is what I diagnosed), how will covering the hole and adjusting a flapper that isn't connected to anything test the vacuum pressure? And in my video, I am trying to test for vacuum. My finger is on the hole, flapper has no spring action at all.

You need a new DISA Valve. That GAS rebuilt kit is for an original DISA Valve. There may be enough difference in the design/tolerance between the original and the Dorfman that the rebuilt kit won't work.

I sold a perfectly good DISA valve with a new o-ring last year on this forum for 60 bucks. The o-ring was the problem and although a new o-ring fixed the lean codes I still went ahead and replaced the DISA valve with a BMW original new DISA valve.

[Ricky Bobby]

Sorry Bianca my bad, I wasn't able to watch the video at work with audio.

Your oem DISA is shot the rebuild kit will not fix it

[Bianca98]

Well, I disagree that my DISA is shot. That said, the kit to fix it properly is about 80 bucks. For another 20 bucks I have no messing around. I have already bought the Dorman Unit.
I also picked up a sick deal on a steam cleaner. I mainly want to use it for automotive purposes. More on that later.
I also bought my lower intake elbow.
Its a little hard to believe I lost track of the money involved already. I will have to go back and take stock.

[Bianca98]

BMW Scanner 1.4.0 25
Hood Catch Release 41
Black ABS Grill 57
aFe Filter cleaner 12
E70 rear wiper 38
Hood Props 23
German Flag decal 8
Heated Seat Switch 35
E46 Sport Seats 300
Door Lock Cylinder 35
CD53 prod 03 July 125
AKSpeedo MID cable 33
Stant 10247 Rad Cap 11
Red Line 75w90 48
Mann Oil Filter 6
Mann Cabin Filter 24
NGK Laser Spark Plugs (6) 42
Aux In Kit 28
Red Line D4 ATF 51
Mahle Fuel Filter 50
Dorman DISA 113
BMW Blue Coolant 55
Lower intake elbow 21
DISA Torx bolts 8
Total 1189

[Bianca98]

Well, lots of packages on their way. some stuff already arrived. I will be sure to photograph what I can. I am starting to think my EML issue is related to the MAF. I'm still struggling with battery issues. It makes no sense to me. I have had to jump the car every morning since Sunday! I originally thought it could go 24hrs. but the last time it failed it was parked from 5pm till 1pm the next day. then it sat Sunday from about 630 till 7 Monday. Tuesday it sits from 8pm till 7am, and its dead. I feel like the recent cold snap is killing the battery! I had to get some new hardware for the cable clamps as they weren't even really held on. GM happens to use the same stuff so our parts department hooked me up. Hoping they will have time to test for a draw today. And I should note. I park the car at about 745-8am, and might not get back into it again till 7-30pm. And I have not once had an issue with it not starting while at work or out and about *knock on wood!* It always happens in the morning after letting it sit over night.

I still think testing is the next course of action but does anyone have any experience with this issue? Or if someone else had a parasitic draw, is there a common cause? Am I over looking a different issue? I think its apparent the alternator is working otherwise the car would die while driving or it wouldn't start when I would leave for lunch or whatever. And it serious takes nothing to jump it either. I hook up the cables, no charge time, and it will just pop off and away we go.