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#1
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2 days ago my "check brake linings" indicator came on. My 1st question: is there any way to know for sure if the indicator is due to front or rear brakes? I think it's my rear, because I had the front brakes done almost exactly a year ago, and I've never had the rear done (owned the truck for about 2 years). Question 2: I've looked at the articles about brake work on the site. However, I've never changed pads on a car/truck; just on motorcycles. Is there anything inherently tough, or any particular gotchas to doing this myself? Thanks for the advice, Andy E. Sarasota, FL '01 X5 4.4 Sport Blk |
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#2
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1)There are sensors on the front and rear to indicate when pad wear is below minimum spec.
2)Nothing really tough, though some people have problems getting the anti-rattle clips back in and the hub & inside of the wheel will likely be rusty or dirty and in need of a good cleaning with a wire brush. Make sure you follow proper torque procedures and specs for your lug bolts and have fun! JV
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JV What gets us into trouble is not what we don't know...it's what we know for sure that just ain't so |
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#3
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sensors...
I understand that there are sensors on the front and rear, but how do I determine which sensor was triggered. I just have a message that says "check brake linings". It doesn't specify front or rear. I guess if I just look at the pad thickness in front and rear, that will obviously tell me. I just thought there might be a way to know which sensor was triggered.
Thx, Andy E. |
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#4
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Quote:
JV
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JV What gets us into trouble is not what we don't know...it's what we know for sure that just ain't so |
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#5
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I did my rears about 2 months ago and just did the fronts yesterday. The sensor triggers at about 3/32 of pad remaining, so hopefully you can tell by looking.
The article by Hayaku is an excellent resource and is very accurate. Read the tool list as the 6mm & 7mm hex (allen) sockets and 16mm socket are not a part of most tool sets. The rears were a piece of cake on my car. The fronts were easy as well except that the previous owner had the brakes done and they really cranked on the bolts for the caliper carrier brackets. I snapped a regular socket trying to break them loose and ended up buying an impact wrench to get them loose. The anti rattle spings were a little tricky to get back on, but not too bad. It feels nice to have new shoes on the beast Good luck Dennis |
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#6
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One gotcha on rear caliper
The rear brake caliper bolt (bottom) is obstructed by the rear shock. I had a allen wrench socket, which won't fit in the tight space with the wrench attached. I bet a regular allen wrench would fit much better (or cut off a little of the allen socket).
From hayaku. http://www.xoutpost.com/showarticle-196.html "Step 29.......Remove the guide bolt dust cap (just the top).......... ..... You will not be able to fit a wrench and socket into the lower guide bolt to remove it because the shock body is in the way...." I was able to put the hex 7mm socket into the bolt and use an open end small wrench to turn the bolt by turning the exposed allen socket. Other than that, pretty easy.
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Luke 95 525ia 01 X5 4.4 1965 Pontiac Lemans Convertible (resto mod) |
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#7
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Question? - What was done in last year's front brake job? And who did it? Did they replace pads,rotors, and sensor? If they did all that, then there should be no doubt the rear brakes are due.
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Mark _______________________________2001 X5 4.4i topaz blue/sand Sport, complete Dinan S2 , hitch, V1, tint, BSW Stage 1, Alpine INA-W910BT___________ Life is not fair! You can't protect people from their own stupidity! Laughter makes life worth living |
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#8
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In the last year brake job, they did the pads and senor (akebono ceramic pads). They said the disks were still good. That was about 20k miles ago.
One other question... I am going to pick up a micrometer tonight. do you think there is any chance that I'll be able to check my disks with the calipers in place? when I just glanced at them at lunch time, it looks like the dust shield in the back is too close to use the micrometer. I didn't want to disassemble anything till I had all the required parts, and I didn't want to buy disks if I didn't need them. thx, Andy E. |
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#9
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So, does anybody know? Can I get a micrometer on the rear disk to check the thickness without taking it apart?
Thanks, Andy E. |
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#10
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i don't think so... there's a dust shield in the back that may be in your way... for sure, when you remove the caliper, you can take the measurement from the middle of the disk from where the caliper sits...
you may be able to squeeze the micrometer in between the caliper carrier and the dust shield... |
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