SES light

[1iwilly]

no we just bought the truck from a use car dealer buy here pay here
he say he bought it from an auction. so he has no history of the vehicle
i'll look to see if any of the abs sensors are bad been a while i forgot where i read on how to test the sensors.??

Originally Posted by sunny5280

Were you made aware there was a problem by the seller? Having put black tape over three very important lights seems to me as deceitful.

[tmv]

Originally Posted by 1iwilly

... now to diagnose as to why the dsc,and brake/abs lights won't go out

The ABS module can also cause this when it goes bad. Are those light lid up immediately when you start the car, or they lid up when the engine warm up? If the later, the ABS module has a solder joint lift off. Happened to my old E39.

[1iwilly]

yes the light is on from the second you start the car.living in FL the DSC is not a big deal but i want it back working. like it should .also i forgot to mention that a new tie rod end was put in the pass side
and the steering wheel is a tad to the left not 12 oclock center i read that could also throw it off.????
i found this DYI=http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1579400-DSC-Light-On-How-to-Diagnose
MY SPEEDO works fine and the cruise control works fine too.so that eliminate the rear 2 sensors LF-sensor-steering and RF-sensor=gearbox so i have to check does 2 sensor out. another weekend project
to my to do list

Originally Posted by tmv

The ABS module can also cause this when it goes bad. Are those light lid up immediately when you start the car, or they lid up when the engine warm up? If the later, the ABS module has a solder joint lift off. Happened to my old E39.

[upallnight]

Was there any type of guarantee or was it sold As Is?

I said it might be a wheel sensor but I also advise you to get the X scan so that you will know why the lights are coming on. Wheel sensor are a common cause for the DSC, ABS and brake lights to come on, but so is a bad transfer case or a bad ABS module.

Since you don't have any type of diagnostic software I would recommend BMW Scanner 1.4. It is easy to install compare with other software for the BMW. You will need a laptop running XP (hopefully you are not like another member whose is an analog guy living in a digital world).

If you are not a DIYer then a used X without a warranty is not the right SUV for you (why do you think the PO tape the lights? Couldn't afford to get it fix correctly).

[1iwilly]

as is i'll remove the sensors tomorrow and clean them. 50/50 chance then keep going from there

[LVP]

I can't believe it! You too? That's nuts. At least now you can properly diagnose the issues. Good luck.

[Zulu95]

Originally Posted by LVP

I can't believe it! You too? That's nuts. At least now you can properly diagnose the issues. Good luck.

My suspicions are now confirmed. I would suggest to anybody considering buying a X5 ( or any vehicle for that matter)to pay attention to the power on self test (POST) for the cluster when doing the test drive. If lights are "missing" negotiate a significantly lower price or walk away. This is at least the fourth time I have read about this trick on the two BMW board I frequent.

[TerminatorX5]

Originally Posted by Zulu95

My suspicions are now confirmed. I would suggest to anybody considering buying a X5 ( or any vehicle for that matter)to pay attention to the power on self test (POST) for the cluster when doing the test drive. If lights are "missing" negotiate a significantly lower price or walk away. This is at least the fourth time I have read about this trick on the two BMW board I frequent.

Most folks walk into a dealership looking for something else, and once they see an E53 in decent shape, for an affordable price, they just buy it... and later on discover this (and others) board and learn about the issues...

I was looking for a Mitsubishi Eclipse convertible (within a $15K range) when stumbled across a V6 1994 E34 530i with 106K miles on it for under 15K... The car looked sharp, was under 7 years old so I just bought it (it was very first ride for my wife in 1999). Later on I learned it was a V8 (dealer had no idea), had heated seats (dealer said it did not have them) and learned about the Alusil/Nikasil issues...

I still loved that car and sold it only because I needed an SUV for the overseas trips and could not keep 3 cars on my books at once.

If possible, I would suggest a TEST 2 for cluster on i-Bus cars, at least it tests the lights and and other needles...

Anyone knows procedure for the similar tests for the MOST cars?

[1iwilly]

well thanks to all that replied. i will try my best to fix the issues it has we like the truck
runs beautiful roomy i'll keep ya updated. once again thanks

[Zulu95]

"Yes, there's the bulb check which occurs when one turns on the key but that's easy to overlook."

This was the Power On Self Test I mentioned. EVERY cluster does it that I have come across. It would now seem to be the norm for dishonest previous owners/dealers to "Black Tape" warning lights rather than fixing the problem because these vehicles can be prohibitively expensive to repair, both in parts and labor. Most owners/ used dealers do not have the equipment or expertise to troubleshoot and repair more complex problems so black tape is now the panacea for all problems.
It is the equivalent of putting gear oil in the engine to hide bearing noises long enough to sell the vehicle.