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#11
12-22-2014, 07:14 PM
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2001 4.4 m60 manifold, cai, weather techs and new drilled slotted rotors. 1996 f-250 900hp 2.6 pulling truck 1969 mustang mach 1 550hp 377cleveland 
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#12
12-22-2014, 07:16 PM
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Lower oil pan needs to come off. But not the upper
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#13
12-22-2014, 07:22 PM
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Got ya. Just looked when u saide that axle goes threw upper. What if the gasket tears on upper anyone had luck with rtv. Dont really wanna drop everything on this jewel. And with my luck it will. At 118k should i bother with them or just do this topend stuff. It only gets about 10k miles a year.
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2001 4.4 m60 manifold, cai, weather techs and new drilled slotted rotors. 1996 f-250 900hp 2.6 pulling truck 1969 mustang mach 1 550hp 377cleveland
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#14
12-22-2014, 07:25 PM
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If it rips, just cut it flush with the block and put a new section on. Then rtv where old and new meet
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#15
12-22-2014, 07:28 PM
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Ok i dont mind that. Ill continue on
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2001 4.4 m60 manifold, cai, weather techs and new drilled slotted rotors. 1996 f-250 900hp 2.6 pulling truck 1969 mustang mach 1 550hp 377cleveland
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#16
12-30-2014, 08:28 PM
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Ok so i feel like a newb for asking but how do i get to the rear pwr steering pump support?? Thats my current hold up
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2001 4.4 m60 manifold, cai, weather techs and new drilled slotted rotors. 1996 f-250 900hp 2.6 pulling truck 1969 mustang mach 1 550hp 377cleveland
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#17
12-30-2014, 09:39 PM
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With an open ended wrench and a lot of patience.
Quote:
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e53 '00 4.4i Oxford Green II Freshly rebuilt tranny(2nd one) and transfer case/front shaft e70 '08 3.0si Sapphire Black cinnamon leather 7 seats e61 '06 530XI Sports Touring Silver - SOLD
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#18
01-01-2015, 02:26 AM
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Sorry to interrupt...I just did the job and got everything back together. Car run, drive and idle good. But I still have the p0021 error code. Is my timing off from bank 2 (driver side)? Do I need to open both valves to have it retiming to just open only the driver side to retime? Btw, I did switch the cps but still get the p0021. So the cps still good. Any input is much appreciate. Thanks
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#19
01-01-2015, 10:06 AM
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At first I thought that I had only one code,but after I scrolled the generic scanner's screen and saw the second one.
I drive like this and except for the Check Engine there's not much difference for now,I mean in the performance or at least I can't feel any. Now it seems the only way to get rid of those codes the easy way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiPK...ature=youtu.be Quote:
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e53 '00 4.4i Oxford Green II Freshly rebuilt tranny(2nd one) and transfer case/front shaft e70 '08 3.0si Sapphire Black cinnamon leather 7 seats e61 '06 530XI Sports Touring Silver - SOLD
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#20
01-01-2015, 12:38 PM
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Yes, I saw that video before I start the process. I did check both side thru that hole make sure both sides lineup perfectly before I bolt everything up. Somehow I am still off a little to the bank 2 (driver side). My bank 1 code when away after the process. Can I just adjust the vanos on bank 2 only which out touching the bank 1 side? Or do I have to open up both sides again to get it retiming? It took me over 30+ hours to get it completed. It's a pain to go thru the whole thing again. Is there a way to tell if the code go away after the retiming before putting all the parts together? Thanks
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