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  #21  
Old 01-25-2015, 04:45 AM
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Update on no crank no start

Okay, after reading about my situation I came across these guy RPM motors here canada and I called them to order and basically check if my keys are shot or my EWS. The guy from the help line told me to do this.

1. Locate EWS then pull out the wire that connects to it.
2. In the wire harness that came out there are two big wire that is in there and good enough the harness allows a blade fuse to be inserted.
3. Inserted a 30A fuse then tried turning the key in the hopes that it will at least crank.

**********

The result,the ENGINE CRANKED!!!!!!!! but it did not start fully (At least we are going somewhere) Called Zach of RPM motors and advised me that most likely about 90% its either the key or the EWS. So toady I have sent them my EWS and my DME and a Key to zero-in where the problem is. I'll check back with the developments.

Also can sombody advisee me how to add photos here so I might be able to share the pictures. Thanks
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  #22  
Old 01-25-2015, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j_lopez View Post
Okay, after reading about my situation I came across these guy RPM motors here canada and I called them to order and basically check if my keys are shot or my EWS. The guy from the help line told me to do this.

1. Locate EWS then pull out the wire that connects to it.
2. In the wire harness that came out there are two big wire that is in there and good enough the harness allows a blade fuse to be inserted.
3. Inserted a 30A fuse then tried turning the key in the hopes that it will at least crank.

**********

The result,the ENGINE CRANKED!!!!!!!! but it did not start fully (At least we are going somewhere) Called Zach of RPM motors and advised me that most likely about 90% its either the key or the EWS. So toady I have sent them my EWS and my DME and a Key to zero-in where the problem is. I'll check back with the developments.

Also can sombody advisee me how to add photos here so I might be able to share the pictures. Thanks
Upload your photos to a web site such as photobucket.com, they will assign a url for each picture. Copy the URL that was assigned to the picture and when you want to insert a picture click on the mountain and sun icon on the toolbar and paste the url.

The antenna ring on the ignition lock on the column could also be bad. That could be why the EWS is not receiving the chip code from the key.

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Last edited by upallnight; 01-25-2015 at 12:56 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-25-2015, 11:34 PM
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Yeah! I was going to add that, now i saw a guy in you tube replacing his antenna ring and he said that a way to check the antenna was to measure the ohms it should be 2.8 ohms. I'll do that next week, after i hear from my ews.
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  #24  
Old 02-02-2015, 02:53 PM
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Okay, I have received back my EWS and DME back from RPM motor sports,
- Installed it back in-
-Checked the battery to be full charged
-Then --------Wait for it! Wait for it! ----------

TADAAAAAAA! Feckin! feels great to be an X5 owner again!! after a month being unloved in the garage! She is now running again! Silky smooth baby!

RPM motor sports did a great job on my EWS!
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  #25  
Old 10-15-2019, 08:02 PM
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Hello X5 forum people!
First time poster, but have been a car guy for 32 years and owned Bimmers for 15 years.

Having a very similar issue, figured I would post in here so people can get more insight to the problem and solution for this:

2001 BMW X5 3.0, will not start, no clicking even coming from starter. Tested wire terminals to starter, thick one has 12.6 volts as it should, both starter solenoid contact wires go from 20mv (ignition off), to 50mv /34hertz (ignition on) on the black/green wire on the topside of solenoid. Bottom skinny wire on solenoid (black wire) goes from 20mv (ignition off), to 50mv (ignition on) with no hertz. No change from ignition on to start position on key.

Check out the oscilloscope readings for detailed patterns on the voltage.

Thanks for any input, it's greatly appreciated.
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Last edited by HansBimmers; 10-16-2019 at 03:27 PM.
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  #26  
Old 10-16-2019, 02:08 PM
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May be ignition switch. Any other symptoms such as dash lights going out or not on at all?
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  #27  
Old 10-16-2019, 02:34 PM
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Lightbulb

All the dash lights light up as normal when I turn the key to the on position.

I checked the shifter and ran it thru the paces to make sure it wasn't the safety switch in there getting crusty.

The key fob remote control part is dead, I planned on changing/resoldering the lithium battery in there but never got to it, and it went thru the washer and dryer a few months before the X5 decided not to start. Not sure if its related issue or not.

I don't have a spare key for it, it didn't come with one. But I do have other similar looking bmw fob keys from my other bimmers, I don't know if that could help diagnose the rolling code issues that are rare, but known on these vehicles.

Does anyone know the proper voltage for each signal wire running to the solenoid? I think someone mentioned a digital signal from the security system on one, and then a 12v trigger on the other, and I am not sure I am getting proper voltage on either. Could that point to a particular component failure?

Thanks for any help!
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2001 X5 Topaz Blue/Tan 3.0
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2001 530i 5 Speed Turbo Project
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Last edited by HansBimmers; 10-16-2019 at 03:26 PM.
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  #28  
Old 10-16-2019, 03:44 PM
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Pretty sure there's no "digital" signal involved in activating the starting motor via the solenoid. I think what you are seeing on the 'scope is just "noise".

Start here maybe...?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ontrol/arwFCfu

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ontrol/ohBOFFa
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  #29  
Old 10-16-2019, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
May be ignition switch. Any other symptoms such as dash lights going out or not on at all?
What would be a clue as to when dash lights inapppropriately going out? Mine come on as normal. Dont turn off except coolant and gas warning lamps.
Pics are initial on position, then 6 seconds later still at on position, and lastly turned to start position.

Anything unusual with the lights?
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2001 X5 Topaz Blue/Tan 3.0
2005 X5 V8 M Sport Black on Black
2001 530i 5 Speed Turbo Project
and a number of other vehicles...

Last edited by HansBimmers; 10-16-2019 at 08:33 PM.
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  #30  
Old 10-17-2019, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HansBimmers View Post
What would be a clue as to when dash lights inapppropriately going out? Mine come on as normal. Dont turn off except coolant and gas warning lamps.
Pics are initial on position, then 6 seconds later still at on position, and lastly turned to start position.

Anything unusual with the lights?
The key input from indie is that problem is between steering wheel and starter. That is an indication the ignition switch may be the culprit. Dash lights can malfunction when the key is on or in the start position. There is no one symptom of dash lights on/off that is conclusive the ignition switch is bad. However, if lights are on or off when they would normally be the opposite it is reasonable to suspect the ignition switch is the problem.

When the engine is in the on position all dash lights illuminate. Lights such as gas warning, parking brake and brake go off when key is in on position. Oil, battery and service engine soon go off when engine is started. Unfortunately, the dash light symptom is not always present when ignition is bad.

The ignition switch failing is most often after 100,000 miles though widely varies as there is no constant for the number of times the ignition switch is used over any X miles.

A failed starter relay or starter is a more common cause of your problem though per indie that possibility has been eliminated.
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Last edited by bcredliner; 10-17-2019 at 01:42 PM.
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