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#1
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If this were mine, I'd probably go for option #3 and try to negotiate a better price. Unless you are already getting the parts at, or near cost. It's easy to spend someone else's money.
You're looking at a $500 delta between brand new and best case iffy option. I'd want a firm quote/opinion from the machinist about either of the other crank options. What's the history on the eBay crank? And does it come with specs from the machinist? I guess it all depends on what your plan is for the X5; are you planning to sell it, or keep it?
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12 E70 3.5i xDrive 03 E46 330i ZHP 01 E53 3.0i 98 E36 323is 12 Audi A4 Quattro 79 Triumph Spitfire 73 MGB |
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#2
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I would add $50 for magnafluxing the old crank or a used crank. No reason to take a chance on the crank being cracked for so little $$.
Personally, I would let the results of the machine shops testing of the original crank guide me. In either case, I would build. One thing I disagree with is going with a used oil pump. For me, it is just not worth the savings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#3
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This weekend I worked on a tool to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt from the crankshaft. I rebuilt an N54 a few months ago and that bolt was unbelievably tight. My DeWalt 20V 1/2" electric impact gun couldn't get it out, and it's supposedly good to 1,000 ft-lb. Last time around, I bent the crankshaft trying to extract the bolt because I didn't have the right tool for the job.
This time around, I wanted to fabricate the right tool. I hunted around work for a piece of scrap steel approximately the right dimensions. I settled on a steel plate roughly 3" x 6" x 1/2". Then I machined the appropriate bolt pattern for the holding screws, as well as a precision bore for the center hub. Finally I had my friend weld the plate onto a piece of steel tube I bought at a local metal shop's scrap bin for a couple bucks. Happily the tool worked! I have no way of knowing for sure, but I estimate it took about 400 ft-lb to remove the bolt. I had to use a cheater pipe on the breaker bar in order to get enough torque. You could visibly see the pin-hole on the breaker bar elongating under the load. |
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#4
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Today I stopped in at the crankshaft machine shop to have the original crank inspected and to get repair quotes. Repairing my original crank would cost about $325, and include welding + grinding the damaged lobe. The others would be ground & polished as needed to remove any scoring. For this engine, oversize replacement bearings are only available for mains, not for connecting rods. So they would only be able to be polished.
They could also polish the ebay used crank, but didn't recommend that option as highly. That would cost about $165. As long as I'm changing out the main bearings, it seems like the best option is to buy the remanufactured OEM crank + bearing set for $1400. I'm pretty confident I have the best price on that. If I'm re-using the old bearings, then the better play is to repair the crankshaft and reassemble. As can be seen from the spreadsheet, bearings are actually the most expensive part of the project. |
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#5
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Any updates?
Any new tools made?
__________________
12 E70 3.5i xDrive 03 E46 330i ZHP 01 E53 3.0i 98 E36 323is 12 Audi A4 Quattro 79 Triumph Spitfire 73 MGB |
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#6
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Nothing too exciting to report; I'm on vacation at the moment. I placed the order for repair parts and it totaled about $2050. I still have not yet sourced a replacement connecting rod, which is a major issue. BMW only sells a set of 6 for $611, ouch.
If anyone has a possible source for an N55 connecting rod, please let me know... |
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#7
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Quote:
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12 E70 3.5i xDrive 03 E46 330i ZHP 01 E53 3.0i 98 E36 323is 12 Audi A4 Quattro 79 Triumph Spitfire 73 MGB |
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Yep. I've heard the same.
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12 E70 3.5i xDrive 03 E46 330i ZHP 01 E53 3.0i 98 E36 323is 12 Audi A4 Quattro 79 Triumph Spitfire 73 MGB |
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#10
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Quote:
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