Picked up a seized engine E70 (N55)

[davidmaria1]

Originally Posted by BergA

I called Big Mike's and they simply said "we don't have any N55s." Can you tell me where you found it on their site?

Bavarian Auto Recycling also said they didn't have any cores. I've cold-emailed a bunch of eBay sellers who sold other N55 components but so far all have said they don't have rods.

I use car-part for cross checking etc.

[Entropy]

I use car-part all the time for differentials.

[Joshdub]

Originally Posted by London Lad

https://youtu.be/XwZOTf8vYhE

I found those same guys working on a knee

[ard]

Originally Posted by Joshdub

I found those same guys working on a knee

Im in ORs a lot. We *NEVER EVER* allow photos or videos....

Big WOW there.

[BergA]

Yesterday I installed the new OEM N55 crankshaft and bearing shells (PN 11212163665). I began by removing all old bearings and cleaning the oil from the block. I also thoroughly cleaned old adhesive from the injection-sealant passageway. Once clean, I installed the new bearings into the block, making sure they were level with the crankshaft's parting line. Next I coated each bearing in a very thin layer of assembly lube. I don't want the crankshaft to touch the bearings metal-to-metal, but at the same time I don't want to affect the reading of the Plastigage.

Once I dropped the crankshaft into the engine block, I inserted a small plastigage onto each journal. Then I torqued all main bearing bolts down per factory service manual, 20Nm + 70 degrees using a torque wrench and torque angle gage.

Next I disassembled the engine to check the clearances. All journals ended up in-spec happily! After cleaning the plastigage residue off the crankshaft and bearings, I thoroughly lubed all running surfaces with assembly lube and re-assembled using new bolts.

[BergA]

Sealing the N55 Bed Plate - Attempt 1 - Utter Failure

The N55 engine uses an anaerobic sealant injected into a channel between the crankcase halves. There is very little documentation about this topic. I found one thread here showing the tools used to inject the sealant:
Is RTV ok for engine block and bed plate? - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums

So, I ordered the following part numbers:
83197536051 - Block Sealant (QTY 1)
83197515683 - Block Primer (QTY 1)
11117506546 - Injection Valve (QTY 2)

The factory service manual (and the link above) shows a threaded rod injection tool. The threaded rod is supposed to press the piston inside the adhesive cartridge. So, I made a similar tool on the milling machine. I used the orange tip for all injections - I did NOT use the blue needle tip at all.

The problem was, during insertion the pressure generated by the liquid was more than the piston's seal could withstand. So instead of pumping into the block, adhesive just blew past the piston and onto the threaded rod.

[BergA]

Sealing the N55 Bed Plate - Attempt 2 - Success!

After researching the adhesive cartridge, I learned it's a standard Nordson EFD product meant to be pressurized pneumatically (rather than with a plunger). Fortunately I was able to borrow the correct fitting from my work, but you could also make something similar fairly easily.

On the second trial, again I used the orange tip (with no needle) and pressurized the air compressor to about 40 psi. As long as I held the orange tip firmly against the one-way valve fitting, I was able to inject sealant with almost no spilling or overflow. I maintained flow until I saw adhesive spilling out both the left and right sides of the block.

[tank]

So much for thinking I could handle a blown n54/55 for a "fun" project....awesome job!

[ard]

Originally Posted by BergA

and pressurized the air compressor to about 40 psi. As long as I held the orange tip firmly against the one-way valve fitting, I was able to inject sealant with almost no spilling or overflow. I maintained flow until I saw adhesive spilling out both the left and right sides of the block.

For a poor mans control...

Ive used a Tee, with one leg the input air, one leg to the device you want to pressurize and the third leg just open to the air.... when you pressurize all the air rushes out of the open tube, but by either bending the hose or placing your thumb over it (or I guess with a valve), you can direct the pressure to the device. Actually gives you pretty precise and immediate control (as opposed to dialing the pressure regulator on the compressor)

If you need to know what the pressure is, add a gauge past the T.

Used this for syncing/adjusting wastegate release pressures on dual turbo set ups, where you want to repeatedly ramp pressures past some small nominal value, and make sure both 'break' at the same pressure.

[Brian425]

Make sure to check the end play on the crank. I always check before I install the caps and after. On Chevys I usually like it between 0.004 and 0.006. On Small block Fords, they like a little more, 0.006-0.008.

It is a quick check with a dial indicator and a screw driver.

Will you be going through the heads before re-installing? Now is the time to check guides, valve seals, valve seats, clean out carbon build up, etc.

Good luck.


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