Home Forums Articles How To's FAQ Register
Go Back   Xoutpost.com > BMW SAV Forums > X5 (E70) Forum
Fluid Motor Union
User Name
Password
Member List Premier Membership Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring....
Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-09-2017, 04:27 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Stockx5 is on a distinguished road
Stage 2 tune: My SCR, DPF, EGR and Urea delete Journey

Hello Folks
I decided to do this project myself in a parking lot on jack stands and since it seems there isn’t that much instruction from those who did it on the x5d I was planning to do a DIY but there is already a very detailed DIY over here for the e90 (LINK) and its very similar to the e70 with some very important distinctions.

My set up:
DUDMD tune Dima hooked it up after many many issues with Bawareca tune member who basically wasted my time and refused to give me a refund.

Buzzken downpipe and midpipe w/out cat and keeping the stock muffler.
This is what you get:



The inside part of the welds where the bungs are is somewhat rough and unfinished to my liking. Probably does not make any difference.



But I smoothed it out with a dremmel anyway.



Weight:
According to FedEx this is the weight of the Buzzken kit. Give or take and extra lb for for packaging



This is what comes off the car, they weight: 25.8 lbs for the SCR and 22.2lbs for the DPF ( they are both for sale btw and in working condition)



So at the end of the day the oem parts weight around 48lbs and the replacement Buzzken pipes weight about 19lbs for a total weight savings of 29lbs.

The EGR exhaust cooler and valve attached to the dpf weighs 4.4 lbs




on 6/19/17 I removed the EGR intercooler at the intake that weighted around 5lbs

Total weight savings for this mod: 38.4 lbs

And If I were to remove the now obsolete EGR cooler and valve at the throttle it would probably weight approx. another 5 lbs. but I have not done that since I have nothing to replace it with.
Also, there is the weight savings of not carrying the two urea tanks and the urea that goes in it. So food for thought.

Now for the tutorial part of this thread:

Pretty much follow all the steps on the excellent abovementioned tutorial by MasterC17

when you get to step 11. The 6 subframe bolts have to be completely removed. Now, results might vary based on how you jacked up the car but for me it was like this:

1. I jacked up the front of the vehicle only on jack stands on the 2 front door lift mounts, since the rear is not necessary. But it won’t hurt if you do.

2. Place jack on engine oil pan on the passenger side (WITH A WOOD BLOCK) I cracked my oil pan because the damn wood block fell off and I applied the jack directly. The oil pan is made of saltine cracker material IT WILL CRACK.

Now on to the dropping the subframe process.

4. remove the 6 subframe bolts completely. For me the subframe did not just drop on my face. It had to be pried down. First with a crow bar and later with a piece of wood. (this piece of wood is very important as we will use it to gain leverage )







If you jacked up the engine too high the subframe will not drop because the right wheel drive shaft will get caught on the shock fork and force the subframe up. So you only want to lift the engine enough to take the weight of the subframe.

To get the engine mount out you have to get the engine support arm out first. To do this you must loosen the 4 bolts holding it. As mentioned by MasterC17 the two front and rear bolt are easy. The top middle bolt is damn near impossible to get.

But this is how I did it:

This is what you are triying to do remove this bolt..this is after I got it out.



The problem is the DPF is right on top of the arm and for me even after removing the V band and all brackets holding the DPF the sucker was welded in there with rust and would not move.
This is what it looks like after you manage to get the socket in there.





the socket would not fit it in there at all so I began with a long flat head screw driver and chiseled it in with a hammer to carve a path for the socket. Once the screw driver went in I pried it up and down. Then did the same with a metal rod, then with a bigger tube and kept hammering in there bigger diameter things until the dpf and the control arm had been bent enough to allow the socket to get in there.

The entire time you are doing this you are jacking the engine up and down and priying on the subframe up and down with the wood stick.

Once that nut is out you get under the car and with one hand on the wood stick and another on the engine mount ARM you begin to yank on both on them frantically in different directions like you are having an epilepsy seizure.

Once you dislodge the engine mount arm itself and angle it a bit you can get the engine-mount out Then the engine mount arm will come out.

I hope you jacked the engine and jacked the car with multiple jack stands and back ups after the back ups in case the entire thing falls down.

Now to get the DPF out I undid the 2 egr electric connections from the top, the o2 sensor I could not undo so I left it on, it did not interfere with pulling out the DPF there is enough cord once you undo the clips holding the wire to let it hang to where you have it under the car and can remove it with gusto.

Now you have to repeat the same process to get the dpf out, pull on the wood stick to drop the subframe as much as you can, pull on the dpf with the the other hand, rotate it sideways up down left left right up L button.

I did not have to bend the dpf tubes, it came out intact, maybe if you bend the tubes you don’t have to drop the subframe as much but I am selling the DPF so I needed it intact. I did this solo but I can see how with 2 people it would be much easier.

Re assembly is easy the only difficult part is that once the subframe was dropped and pushed out of place it will be tough to re align since there are so many things attached to it mainly the metal steering fluid hose. To get it to align I had to pull on the subframe with a crank type rope attached from a fixed point on the passenger side subframe to another adjacent car then use a small bottle jack to lift it, only then was I able to get the sub frame bolts in.

Honorable Mentions:
All the nuts are completely rusted and welded in, made this project x10 harder. Working on a east coast car is not the same as working on a car that has seen the Chicago snow/salt. Make no mistake!

The first NOX sensor was almost impossible to get out as it was welded in, despite using the right o2 open socket tool, banging it with a hammer, appliying wd-40, Pb blaster, heating up the bung, any attempt just rounded the head more and more. The only thing that got it out was by squeezing extremely hard some macho vice grips with scary sharp teeth.

Same thing with the egr sensor at the midpipe, all though I did not have the 45 dollar 14 mm open socket tool, anything I tried just rounded off the head. Vice grips was the way to go. And Im going to guess the 14mm tool would have striped the head too as the open socket does not have the strength.

Since I had already sold the NOX sensors before beginning the project I had to remove the NOX and wiring behind the heat shield. The first NOX sensor’s connector/ecu looking part location is exposed to the road elements and was completely rusted out. Rusting is a common reason for these failing. And actually, the secondary NOX sensor looked brand new because it was properly located behind the heat shield. If I had not done this mod I would relocate the NOX or place it inside an enclosure, they are just waiting to fail sitting there and are not cheap!


Here is my MPG reading before the mod:



the idea is to take another screenshot keeping the same driving habits whenever the AVG speed hits 28.6MPH after about the same distance driven.

Exhaust sound at the muffler before Mod:
https://youtu.be/jmIWwwvx2sI


My 0 to 60 run before the mod:
https://youtu.be/X4-I5fWl4UQ


I should get the ecu back sometime this week and will Update !

Total investment for me is $804 bucks for the Buzzken kit and $600 for the TRF tune since they have that deal going and you also have pay 25 bucks to send the ecu in. so if you do the work yourself you are spending $1,425 bucks.

Here is how the monitors read after the tune



* the NOX sensor-s must be left plugged in at the front and rear of the car doesn't matter if it's not working. otherwise you will get a check engine light.
* the TEMP sensors must be left plugged in dangling also or you will get a check engine light.

Last edited by Stockx5; 01-28-2018 at 01:12 AM.
Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links

  #2  
Old 04-09-2017, 09:18 PM
Googone20's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 19
Googone20 is on a distinguished road
Looking forward to the results of this. I just picked up a low miles 35d myself. I am trying to quickly educate myself with how to mod these things. It seems most people goes this route to eliminate problematic components, which also brings better power and economy.
__________________
2015 X5 35d Msport (Carbon Black/Mocha)
2007 M6 (Diamond Schwartz/Schwartz)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-10-2017, 09:32 AM
bawareca's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 976
bawareca is on a distinguished road
Stockx5, good write-up. I still remember this top bolt of the engine arm. Your tune is almost ready, you should have it sometimes this week.
Yeah, working on a car that has never seen salty roads is a completely different experience.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-10-2017, 09:44 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Brooklyn, NYC, NY
Posts: 365
robnitro is on a distinguished road
How does the dpf connect to the exhaust? Is there a clamp? I plan to gut it instead to keep a stock look. If I can ham something up there, I can scoop it out...

Also if you check torque or any other app does it show as readiness ok? I'm not sure about chi town but I have to pass for my yearly test.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-10-2017, 12:33 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 391
Ozer is on a distinguished road
If you have yearly smog testing in your state, move along
__________________
2011 35d
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-10-2017, 01:03 PM
bawareca's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 976
bawareca is on a distinguished road
It will not legally pass smog with the deletes.
What is interesting is that my car is in it's 6th year (California) and I still didnt receive a notice for a smog.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-10-2017, 01:53 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Stockx5 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Googone20 View Post
Looking forward to the results of this. I just picked up a low miles 35d myself. I am trying to quickly educate myself with how to mod these things. It seems most people goes this route to eliminate problematic components, which also brings better power and economy.


This is how the turbo looked at the outlet. Not sure if its good or bad but my guess is it should breathe somewhat cleaner now.

tried to wiggle the turbo and it feels tight

Quote:
Originally Posted by robnitro View Post
How does the dpf connect to the exhaust? Is there a clamp? I plan to gut it instead to keep a stock look. If I can ham something up there, I can scoop it out...
there is a screw clamp at the turbo outlet but you also have the egr cooler which attaches to the dpf. so you would need 2 block off plates. one for where the egr valve connects to the turbo and another for where the egr connects to the dpf.

Did I mention my DPF is for sale? :P

according to some other tunes ive seen apparently theirs still passes emissons. but this particular one trough TRF tunning will show "not ready"

maybe thats a good feature add for the future for TRF tunning to get it to show "not available" instead of "not ready"

not sure how many components are diesel emissions related. here in illinois for gas cars you can have up to 2 systems not ready.

Diesel commercial trucks get tested but not diesel passenger cars.

another option is to just pay someone to let you register your car on another state. I think this is what I would do if Illinois changes their mind Il register to some relatives home in Florida where nothing ever gets tested

all tho the way trump is tearing up the EPA i think they will cut back on testing if anything.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-10-2017, 02:13 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Brooklyn, NYC, NY
Posts: 365
robnitro is on a distinguished road
I know the v band by the turbo side of dpf, but what about the other side that leads to exhaust? Is that a normal clamp too or you cut it off there?

Your soot looks normal. Regen temperatures probably keep it from getting nasty. Tdi's look much worse even stock mk4 tunes can be smoky especially with boost leaks (which confuse the maf for mid power fueling)


I understand with the readiness. I can't just skip it. I thought California was worse but i think they don't test new cars, where we have safety and obd check every year
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-10-2017, 02:28 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 213
Stockx5 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnitro View Post
I know the v band by the turbo side of dpf, but what about the other side that leads to exhaust? Is that a normal clamp too or you cut it off there?

Your soot looks normal. Regen temperatures probably keep it from getting nasty. Tdi's look much worse even stock mk4 tunes can be smoky especially with boost leaks (which confuse the maf for mid power fueling)


I understand with the readiness. I can't just skip it. I thought California was worse but i think they don't test new cars, where we have safety and obd check every year
I see
yes its just a standard muffler clamp with a bolt on it
like this Walker Exhaust Clamp 36439 - Read Reviews on Walker #36439
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-11-2017, 08:43 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Verona, NJ
Posts: 19
35Disel is on a distinguished road
Stage 2 tune: My SCR, DPF, EGR and Urea delete Journey

I have same tune and there's no way I could pass state inspection in NJ. In fact, I would not recommend to anyone who will need one in near future since you will fail and will have to provide prove of repair. Nevertheless I was able to take care of it. Not sure about NY though.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last edited by 35Disel; 04-11-2017 at 08:50 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On





All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:37 PM.
vBulletin, Copyright 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0
© 2017 Xoutpost.com. All rights reserved. Xoutpost.com is a private enthusiast site not associated with BMW AG.
The BMW name, marks, M stripe logo, and Roundel logo as well as X3, X5 and X6 designations used in the pages of this Web Site are the property of BMW AG.
This web site is not sponsored or affiliated in any way with BMW AG or any of its subsidiaries.