What PSI should the cylinder be for valve stem seal replacement?

[byM5]

Visibility and access with cams off.

Had to join the intake and exhaust brackets.

Was flying through changing oil seals, and all of the sudden disaster. At 5hrs I guess I should have taken a break.

Dropped the 17mm ratcheting wrench down the engine bay. I can't see it. I have to take off the splash pan. But it's there. It wasn't anywhere the timing chain area.


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[wsmeyer]

Geez at that point I would just pull the heads off and get a 3 angle valve job. That would put a lot of fresh life into the engine.

[byM5]

Originally Posted by wsmeyer

Geez at that point I would just pull the heads off and get a 3 angle valve job. That would put a lot of fresh life into the engine.

Youre right. I thought a few of the valves had some wiggle. If I had a borescope I would look inside the cylinder. The engine has 110k and was running great except for blue smoke after idling.
But for me thats a lot more work.

Taking off the cams took less than 30mins.
Timing will take probably another 30mins.
To me working with clear line of sight and the ability to grab springs with hands is worth the extra 60mins.
Vs fumbling and struggling for access space. And don't forget putting those rollers back on.
Snow is coming to DC again. So I will need to close back up tonight and be ready for wednesday.

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[Toothbrush]

I can't wait to see this done and see the results when it's up and running. If I had to do it over, I would probably go the same route with removing the cam, but wasn't brave enough at the time.

Just got a replacement boroscope for the cheap one that quit on me. Hoping it will arrive this week.

For the thread subject, I only kept mine around 5psi and never had any issues with valves falling.

[byM5]

Originally Posted by Toothbrush

I can't wait to see this done and see the results when it's up and running. If I had to do it over, I would probably go the same route with removing the cam, but wasn't brave enough at the time.

Just got a replacement boroscope for the cheap one that quit on me. Hoping it will arrive this week.

For the thread subject, I only kept mine around 5psi and never had any issues with valves falling.

Thank you!

I keep dropping the psi. I started at 80 and saw some occasional crank movement. Then dropped to 40psi as per Skyline.
Now I'm down to 30psi. Let me try 10psi. My pancake is struggling!!

I can't wait to get this thing out of my garage.

The M5 is out in the elements!! And wifes i3 is arriving today.

[the_ulf]

so all in all, including the extra 60 minutes for the cams, how long did it take you per head? my valve cover gaskets need doing and the engine is at 110k, so i'm now pondering whether or not to just go ahead and do it as a preventative measure, once i'm in there anyways.

[byM5]

Originally Posted by wsmeyer

Geez at that point I would just pull the heads off and get a 3 angle valve job. That would put a lot of fresh life into the engine.

wsmeyer you jinxed me!!!

as I was rotating the engine, I heard a bunch of watery burbling from Bank 1.

I had a lot of air loss on bank 1 while doing the valve seals.

As I was cranking cylinder 1 ejects what seems to be a cylinder full of coolant from spark plug hole. No I did not test it. But there couldn't be anything else.

So, off comes bank 1 head!! Deck, magnaflux, 3 angle valve job.

This car is killing me!!!

I think the coolant pipe snuck by too long.

This job was started because I had smoke coming out of the tail pipe which got worse and worse in winter. I didn't bother to check the color of the smoke. I just assumed it was the valve stem seal job calling. I did get some blue smoke at drive throughs during the summer but never in the winter. i then started to get smoke at drivethrough in winter. Also I checked the PCV and they had fluid frozen in the PCV bank 1 pipe. So, I assumed that was moisture getting into the engine from leaky VC gaskets. A tiny bit of chocolate milkshake going on.
Fast forward to now

I also discovered some loose bolts as someone else has been fooling around with bank 2 which had a lot of oil leaks around VC gasket.
My guess is that bank 2 head gasket has been done. It had perfect air seals on all 4.

Obviously bank 1 is getting pulled.

But what is the consensus for bank 2?

Pull or no Pull?

Thanks

[wsmeyer]

You guys all jinxed ME! It wasn't two weeks after I commented in one of these valve seal threads that I needed to do mine!

I'd pull #1 and evaluate both the time it takes and the amount of carbon buildup. Our engines are notorious for that and removal of it can make as big of a difference as a valve job.

I wouldn't think you're looking at a lot of time but it's all up to accessibility of the exhaust bolts and how frozen they are.

[740iS]

Originally Posted by byM5

wsmeyer you jinxed me!!!

as I was rotating the engine, I heard a bunch of watery burbling from Bank 1.

I had a lot of air loss on bank 1 while doing the valve seals.

As I was cranking cylinder 1 ejects what seems to be a cylinder full of coolant from spark plug hole. No I did not test it. But there couldn't be anything else.

So, off comes bank 1 head!! Deck, magnaflux, 3 angle valve job.

This car is killing me!!!

I think the coolant pipe snuck by too long.

This job was started because I had smoke coming out of the tail pipe which got worse and worse in winter. I didn't bother to check the color of the smoke. I just assumed it was the valve stem seal job calling. I did get some blue smoke at drive throughs during the summer but never in the winter. i then started to get smoke at drivethrough in winter. Also I checked the PCV and they had fluid frozen in the PCV bank 1 pipe. So, I assumed that was moisture getting into the engine from leaky VC gaskets. A tiny bit of chocolate milkshake going on.
Fast forward to now

I also discovered some loose bolts as someone else has been fooling around with bank 2 which had a lot of oil leaks around VC gasket.
My guess is that bank 2 head gasket has been done. It had perfect air seals on all 4.

Obviously bank 1 is getting pulled.

But what is the consensus for bank 2?

Pull or no Pull?

Thanks

A lot would probably say don't worry about bank 2, but I've always been of the mindset of to do both at the same time. Especially with the work you're planning for bank 1 head.

[byM5]

Originally Posted by 740iS

A lot would probably say don't worry about bank 2, but I've always been of the mindset of to do both at the same time. Especially with the work you're planning for bank 1 head.

I agree!
But those exhaust bolts are frozen!!

What's the easiest way to pull motor?

I'm thinking through the front.

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