What PSI should the cylinder be for valve stem seal replacement?

[Skyline]

Originally Posted by wsmeyer

I was suggesting swapping heads as from what I understand he just had a valve job and decarbonizing done on his heads.

All junkyards warranty the engine as replacement only and for a short period of time. Not selling you a bad engine is part reputation, and part the reality that there's a lot of labor involved for them to remove an engine. There is no shortage of X5's in junkyards so they will sell you one from a car that came in totalled in a wreck where it's fair to assume it was running, the mileage is known, and had passed smog at most 2 years ago. Cars that are sold to them with expired registration or from the impound lot they just assume something is wrong with the engine and might pull the heads off to sell but with engines as popular as ours most likely straight to the crusher.

I've heard some yards will pay for labor for the second go-around if the engine is no good.

[wsmeyer]

Originally Posted by Skyline

I've heard some yards will pay for labor for the second go-around if the engine is no good.

That would be awesome but I haven't run across it.

[fsd350]

Originally Posted by byM5

Morning everyone!!

Started the valvestem seal replace as I had too much oil getting past the valve cover gaskets so it was just time to do it.

What is the recommended cylinder PSI for valve stem seal replacement?

Thanks

100 psi should be sufficient

[byM5]

Originally Posted by fsd350

100 psi should be sufficient

Anyone got a block or engine for sale?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[740iS]

WHAT? Your block is toast?

[byM5]

Originally Posted by 740iS

WHAT? Your block is toast?

I see a hairline crack cylinder #1.

Unless someone has another suggestion to repair block in car.

It was the dead of winter. I had a wet intake pcv, some moisture in oil, leaking vc gaskets, and leaking cam cover gaskets, and some sort of smoke after drive thru.

Oddly enough car felt strong.

Just throw some JB on that crack right?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[740iS]

Geeze, that's a big friggin hair! Of course in the water jacket and looks like it may go pretty far down.

Dunno about jbweld, but probably krazy glue or modelers glue. LOL

That does suck too. Surprised you didn't lose power but maybe enough wall material to keep the blowby to a minimum.

[byM5]

Originally Posted by 740iS

Geeze, that's a big friggin hair! Of course in the water jacket and looks like it may go pretty far down.

Dunno about jbweld, but probably krazy glue or modelers glue. LOL

That does suck too. Surprised you didn't lose power but maybe enough wall material to keep the blowby to a minimum.

I couldn't get a catch with fingernail.

Don't know why it ran so well but gave 14mpg.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[byM5]

Update:
New engine on the way. Will do the following prior to install.

1. valve seals
2. valley pan and pipe.
3. alternator bracket seal
4. rear main seal
5. rear coolant passage cover
6. valve cover gaskets and timing covers
7. eccentric cam sensor seal
8. walnut blast exhaust and intake ports

Anything else?

[Skyline]

Originally Posted by byM5

Update:
New engine on the way. Will do the following prior to install.

1. valve seals
2. valley pan and pipe.
3. alternator bracket seal
4. rear main seal
5. rear coolant passage cover
6. valve cover gaskets and timing covers
7. eccentric cam sensor seal
8. walnut blast exhaust and intake ports

Anything else?

The seal for the oil cooler hose. Also, take a very good look at your motor mounts. And if you have not done this recently on your car, all the coolant hoses, especially the heater hoses that are very hard to get to. Spark plugs, and water pump as well; again depending on mileage. I'd take a close look at the belts and pulleys too.