Quote:
Originally Posted by Toothbrush
Yep, you can't just slip that one back on. That's definitely the the rocker arm/roller drag lever.
In the picture, the lower part with the opening is where the rocker sits on top of the lifter. You can see the little clip like pieces that help it sort of snap/clamp onto the top of the lifter. That part is easy to do with only your hands/fingers.
The upper part in the picture is where the rocker arm sits on top of the valve stem/valve spring. This is the part you can't put into place without compressing the valve spring. You need a tool for that, and some way to keep the valve stem from dropping into the cylinder (e.g. air compressor, rope, etc) while it's TDC.
Maybe call an indy and see how much they would charge just for that? May be cheap enough to have it towed, put the rocker back on, tow it back and then you button it all up - assuming you could find somebody to agree (shop liability/warranty policies may cause them to say no).
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Thank you toothbrush, you know exactly what I'm looking for. I've seen a youtube video on replacing the stem seals, which doesn't seem too difficult of a job. I do plan on fixing this on my on own, by replacing the spring and the lifter only. And yes, what I don't understand is the part where I may need to compress the cylinder. Is this really necessary? I was thinking only to compress the spring, remove the valve keepers, and swap out the spring. Not that easy right? Guess I don't know enough about engines. But push comes to shove, I wouldn't mind adding a small air compressor to my collection of tools.
One more question toothbrush, from your experience, do you think that a fallen rocker arm is the result of a hesitation problem on my truck? I've checked pretty much everything, replaced negative cable and ibs, alternator, couldn't find a short anywhere, four working vanos solenoids, replaced driver side vvt actuator due to fluctuating ohm values on the multimeter (same side fallen rocker piece discovery), but not the problem either. Then after deciding to replace the eccentric sensors was when I discovered the fallen rocker arm. The eccentric sensor looks fine too, no oil on the connector. Sorry, I know I'm repeating this over again. So I'm thinking, it's got to be this fallen rocker piece because the faults from carly indicate a PT CAN and VVT CAN fault present. Clearing the faults will eliminate the problem but only for a short drive.