New to Forum-Need Help

[TriX5]

Quite a collection of diverse faults. Before hunting down this stuff, check if there is water in the space behind the engine bulkhead. I.e. where the brake fluid reservoir is, look down in there with a flash light. and on the opposite side. Not saying this is your problem but just something to check.

[Cyrix2k]

6041 -> EMF: Parking motor left stiff
D395 -> EMF: Message TORQUE_1 (ID: 0xA8) - error in alive counter
2A12 -> 2A12 DMTL solenoid valve, control
CD99 -> CD99 Message (Torque Request EGS, B5)
CD9D -> CD9D Message (Transmission Data, BA)
CDA9 -> CDA9 message (heat flux / load moment air conditioning, 1B5)
CDB0 -> CDB0 message (transmission data display)
CDBE -> CDBE message, (target torque request from DSC)

I don't see anything there that would keep it from starting, just a bunch of CAN errors that are likely related to battery replacement. I'd clear the codes and try reading them again. The DMTL error is probably legitimate (very common) but shouldn't set again until the vehicle is driven. The parking brake error might be valid as well as it's also a common fault. Can you take a video of what it does? I'm almost willing to put money on it being a bad starter... (and I did forget about the ground strap issues, but you already checked that!)

[chandlerhayes01]

i have checked the ground straps (the ones i could locate).

the starter is the only thing i have yet to check.

i will get a video tomorrow

[TriX5]

One place I checked I found DME fault 15 is "no communication" with EWS. If the EWS does not connect with the DME I suspect you cannot start the car. But since you also have a ZGM fault (which seems to be an interface between different bus systems) I wondered if you had a broader comms problem. This lead me to wonder if you had water accumulation where the DME is located. Anyway, just a hunch.

[Cyrix2k]

Originally Posted by TriX5

One place I checked I found DME fault 15 is "no communication" with EWS. If the EWS does not connect with the DME I suspect you cannot start the car. But since you also have a ZGM fault (which seems to be an interface between different bus systems) I wondered if you had a broader comms problem. This lead me to wonder if you had water accumulation where the DME is located. Anyway, just a hunch.

I'm pretty sure the "15" is the number of faults read rather than a specific fault code. Any time there is an electrical issue, including a low/dead battery, the vehicle tends to set a bunch of communication faults. As long as they're in the past and not active faults, it's not a concern.

[chandlerhayes01]

I just checked the starter voltage. The large lug is at 11.8v and when the start button is pressed the smaller lug reads 0.0v.

Where should i go from here?

Does this indicate a bad starter also?

[Cyrix2k]

what small lug are you referring to? There's two unshielded connections on the starter. One, the big lug, will be connected to battery positive voltage which you verified. The second has a copper strap going to the starter itself. That will be zero if bad (goes to battery voltage when the solenoid is activated, you would hear a big click when the start button is pressed). There should be a small wire connected to a plug as well (at the arrow on the picture below). If you disconnect the plug and hit the start button, that wire should go to +12v when the starter button is pressed. Note that you might have to turn the X5 completely off and try a fresh start to see 12v - I would imagine it has a protection mode.



You can also use a 16 gauge or heavier wire to carefully jump the battery terminal to the spade terminal where that plug goes. It should activate the starter. It's the same procedure as this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP6PbKhEzjU I do it while walnut blasting N54s.

[chandlerhayes01]

i didnt hear a click and the one with the copper strap isnt reading anything

[Cyrix2k]

Originally Posted by chandlerhayes01

i didnt hear a click and the one with the copper strap isnt reading anything

I edited my last message. Unplug the small wire and measure that. Every time I've seen these starters fail, they don't even click so it's probably the solenoid failing. If you see +12v on that small wire after pressing start, your starter will be confirmed to be bad. Or jump the solenoid & if the starter doesn't activate, it's bad.

[chandlerhayes01]

I jumped it like you said. I took a wire and went from the 12 supply under the hood and connected to the starter where the small wire attaches. The starter turned over when i did that. I thought the starter was bad so i removed it