Anyone direct wire a Radar Detector in E70

[Darkz]

Originally Posted by X5Mod

Yes, I have hardwired a Passport 8500 in BOTH a 2005 X5 and in my (two week old) 2008 X5. It really can be done without a lot of effort. The hardwire is to a switched power supply, so if you somehow leave the unit on, it won't be able to drain the battery. I also had no interferance with this hardwire and any of the other electronics in the car. My vehicles are leased, and when I turned over the 2005 X5, I simply disconnected the unit and removed it to use it again in the 2008 X5. The 2005 X5 hardwire install was easier than that of the 2008.

Unlike other jobs I've done, I took no photographs, but can lead you through the install. I'll write up a complete description....details to follow.

To do this install you'll need the following (assuming an 8500, althogh any other detector is essentially the same):

1. Direct Wire SmartCord or Direct Wire Cord
(SEE: http://www.escortradar.com/shop.htm ). NOTE: If you decide to use the SmartCord, you will need more time to complete the project as you'll need to artfully cut a hole in the plastic that also houses the lights, switches for the sunroof, etc. If you want to do this right, be prepared to spend a 45 minutes to an hour progressively cutting/shaping the oval hole needed. The "Direct Wire" connection doesn't require this step.
2. Plastic Spatula (like for mixing paint, etc.) about 1" in width. Nice for atraumatically prying out lights, other plastic fittings. I use a set of " Standard Medium Strength Plastic " fromwww.bojoinc.com .
3. Drill or dremel moto tool
4. Assorted round files
5. 320 grit (or so) sandpaper
6. Torx screwdrivers

The key elements in this install are:
1. Removing the headliner plastic cover containing the lights, switches, etc. to gain access to the electric power for the detector.
2. Identifying the 12 volt SWITCHED wire to connect to the unit.
3. Cutting a small groove/trough in the front drivers side of the above plastic cover to allow you when the entire project is done, to pull out the cable that connects to the radar detector (whether you've mounted it by suction cup to the windshield or with a clip to the visor) AND THEN EASILY stuff it back inside so that all that is visible is the RJ connector projecting out of the plastic cover (it's barely visible from inside and outside the car).

Finally, if you did like I did and need to reset the sunroof (because you opened it up during the install, didn't close it, disconnected the sunroof switch and then reconnected the switch - DOH!), I can also tell you how to do that (it takes 4 minutes - can't imagine what dealer would charge !).

More details to follow. I'll try to take some pics.

not sure if i missed any during my readings, could you tell me which SWTICH power wire you used in your E70? what color is that wire? thank you.

[brian5]

Originally Posted by Darkz

not sure if i missed any during my readings, could you tell me which SWTICH power wire you used in your E70? what color is that wire? thank you.

Lots of posts on that Try this one

[awesomejun]

That looks fantastic.
BTW, How did you feed that "Auto Scan" screen??
I'd like to know which wire in head console is right for hard wiring...

"Does anybody know which wire in the head console is right for detector mounting, yet??"

[marcx5]

anyone tried installing a Passport SRX? it is by far the best remote radar detector and laser jammer system. have it in my 2002 x5 now.

[Denalio]

Thanks. This is the newest RDD Spectre proof remote detector on the market. I will be also installing a Laser Interceptor for ultimate laser protection.

[jeudowe]

It's certainly not the least expensive option out there, but I have a built-in K40 in my 911 Turbo and will be doing the same thing in the new X5. The K40's now are bluetooth, so you get a small handheld remote that sits in the glovebox. Two very small blue LED lights are installed anywhere you'd like in the interior. I usually pick a spot in the center console about 3-5" apart - looks factory done and works flawlessly (my experience).

Again, it's not the cheapest option, but when you spend this much on a car, you want your installations to look fully integrated.

Josh

[Denalio]

Originally Posted by jeudowe

It's certainly not the least expensive option out there, but I have a built-in K40 in my 911 Turbo and will be doing the same thing in the new X5. The K40's now are bluetooth, so you get a small handheld remote that sits in the glovebox. Two very small blue LED lights are installed anywhere you'd like in the interior. I usually pick a spot in the center console about 3-5" apart - looks factory done and works flawlessly (my experience).

Again, it's not the cheapest option, but when you spend this much on a car, you want your installations to look fully integrated.

Josh

I needed a Spectre (Radar Detector Detector) immune detector and completely hidden install. The Sti-R comes with l.e.d. for dash, a small display with template and frame for flush mount, and very small control module, control interface which mounts out of sight and the Radar Reciever which is mounted behind the grill or bumper and a small speaker. You can also program the unit for specific bands used in your area or delete certain band that are not. The unit is not cheap, did I mention Spectre proof!!! Also, I have the Cheetah GPS Mirror with the radar Interface so all alerts go to the mirror with voice alert and visual alert. With the Cheetah Mirror you can also set it so it will not alert you if you are under a specific speed. This way the detector is not chirping at you all the time. You can also turn off X-band alerts. The cheetah Mirror has a database of radar cameras built in and you can also program your own locations. oh ya...it's Spectre Proof!

[Denalio]

Any pics of the K40 in your 911??

[X5Mod]

The use of this DIY is for reference only; I disclaim all LIABILITY FOR DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR INJURIES THAT RESULT FROM ANY USE OF THE EXAMPLES, INSTRUCTIONS OR OTHER INFORMATION IN THIS DIY.



DIY Hardwire Radar Install in Center Headliner

SPECS:
X5 2008 E70
3.0 si
Panoramic Roof
Passport 8500


INTRODUCTION:

CLOSE THE PANORAMIC ROOF COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU START AND DO NOT OPEN IT DURING THIS INSTALL – if you do, you’ll have to electronically reset the roof – no big deal, I can tell you how I did it.

This is the second switched hardwired radar detector install I’ve done (meaning: NO voltage is provided to the radar unit when the ignition is switched OFF, it only receives voltage when the ignition is switched ON) – the other was on an earlier X5 2005 E53. I had no problems with the switched hardwired E53 install (after 3 years of use) and thus far (after about three months) no problems with the E70 install as well. It takes a little effort and if you don’t use the X, can probably be done in less than a few hours (if it’s your first time).

By way of comparison, on 7/12/2008, QMan posted his DIY for a hardwire radar detector:
I just installed my radar detector and after quite a bit of investigation I did find a wire in the center console. It turns on when you open the door, not when you turn the key, BUT CLOSE ENOUGH. If you look at the Start/Stop button's illumination, it makes that behavior. Been using it for a week know and I am happy with it. There is a ton of circuitry in that center console. I marked up the image in this thread to identify the wire. But, I would still verify this wire's behavior beforehand.

In contradistinction, the DIY I describe ONLY works when the ignition is switched ON .

When being used, I clip the radar detector to the visor, but this set up could be easily used with the alternative suction cup attachment. Unlike the E53 install, I had to make a very minor modification in the left front edge of the center headliner console, that allows the cable (that connects to the radar unit) to “retract” into the headliner (you very easily manually feed it back into the headliner space) making it essentially invisible when the radar detector is not attached (and safely put away in the glove box).

The only other cutting of plastic was because I used the Direct Wire Smart Cord (see: http://www.escortradar.com/shop.htm ). Because of this, I had to carefully (!) cut out with a Dremel tool an oval hole in the center headliner console to accommodate the Direct Wire Muting Unit (see image). I then sparingly applied a small bead of epoxy around the Muting Unit on the inside of the headliner to secure the Muting Unit. I’m pleased at how the finished product looks. By no means are you obligated to use this Direct Wire Muting Unit, and instead can simply use the Hardwire Cord to hardwire the cable to a ground and 12Volt switched source. Your time to do the install will be considerably less if you don’t use the Direct Wire Muting Unit.











PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the center headliner light console (“console”):
Understand that the console is “hinged” at its rear end farthest from the windshield (see images). Conversely you unclip the console from the edge closest to the windshield. It is held in place on the headliner by two clips, that can be pried off by inserting a spatula or other plastic blade under the edge of the console. **NOTE**: there is plastic trim piece that overlies this area and if you can remove it, you’ll be able to see the clips I mention (see also the images to see where the clips are located).







Once the console has been unclipped, detach it from its electrical connectors – they’re standard connectors that come out with little difficulty. Since each is a different size, there’s little chance you’ll reconnect them incorrectly if you don’t remember what their proper connection ordering is.

You need to get the console out of the way so you can then: (1) take the console out of the vehicle so you can trim a small amount of plastic from the edge (so the cable can move freely in and out), (2) access the 12volt wire to connect, (3) access the grounding screw to establish a ground.


1. Trim Headliner on left side (driver’s side).
The purpose of doing this is to allow the cable to be pulled out to connect to radar unit and then be EASILY pushed back into the space above the console when the radar unit is no longer in use. I used a rat-tail file to slowly and carefully remove a hemi-circle shaped piece of plastic. Note that you need to file BOTH the black AND grey plastic portion of the console. (see images).

2. Identify the 12 volt switched wire.
The best I can describe this is the wire you’re going to use is NOT found on any of the connectors to console as described above. Instead it is a Green/White wire found bundle wrapped with others and lying in front above the headliner, towards the windshield. (see images for the location of the wire). You’ll have to conservatively unwrap the wire from the bundle to make it more accessible. The next part described is confirmatory and may not be necessary.



Once you’ve identified this wire, I suggest you use a voltmeter to test it with the IGNITION ON and THE CAR MOTOR RUNNING (i.e. the car is parked with the parking brake on and car is “running”) to confirm the wire is 12 volts switched. NOTE that it can be difficult to get a good connection from the voltmeter to the 12 volt wire – I used an alligator clip firmly attached to the wire when I confirmed it was the one I wanted to use. REMEMBER: You need to establish a good ground otherwise it will appear that it doesn’t have the necessary voltage (trust me). After this, turn off the engine and switch off ignition. .

3. Identify the ground.
I used the torx screw as in the image as the grounding source. Loosen screw, slide ground lead under, tighten screw down tight (!).



4. Reconnect the electrical connectors on the headliner, replace the headliner light console, making sure that the cable isn’t being pinched and can FREELY move in and out.

[Bimmerx53]

Sorry if this is a repeat question, but how did you remove the trim in front of the reading lights that covers the clips holding the entire housing?

I tried pulling mine from the front but I feel like i'm going to snap it in two.
Did you simply pull yours off? and how much force did you have to use to do it?

Thanks

Originally Posted by X5Mod

The use of this DIY is for reference only; I disclaim all LIABILITY FOR DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR INJURIES THAT RESULT FROM ANY USE OF THE EXAMPLES, INSTRUCTIONS OR OTHER INFORMATION IN THIS DIY.