DIY: Coolant Exchange Pipe / Valley Pan Replacement. e70 n62 4.8L

[Wahooz]

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but currently in the process of doing valve seals on my 2007 4.8 E70 and using this as a guide to help. In any case, I'm a bit confused by the original posters statement:

"when removing Vanos Actuators: if you do not have a computer to release the tension the actuator has on the adjustable cams, remove three of four bolts, hold Actuator and remove the fourth bolt, expect the cam to fall off of the actuator as you try to move it and get it out of the valve cover."

The part I don't understand is "expect the cam to fall off the actuator". Is there some sort of small cam as part of this assembly? By looking at it, it appears the screw drive of the actuator simply turns the gear on the cam...so not sure how the cam falls off?? That said,when I removed the actuator on the pass side (Bank 1), I did hear something drop into the head, but could not find anything in the head after the cover was removed. On the Driver's side (Bank 2) there was no sound of anything dropping. Any help in clarifying this would be greatly appreciated!

[wsmeyer]

Unless something is broken there is nothing to fall off. I think he meant "release" and you heard the click of the cam snapping back when the gear disengaged.

[gregg3gs]

Originally Posted by Wahooz

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but currently in the process of doing valve seals on my 2007 4.8 E70 and using this as a guide to help. In any case, I'm a bit confused by the original posters statement:

"when removing Vanos Actuators: if you do not have a computer to release the tension the actuator has on the adjustable cams, remove three of four bolts, hold Actuator and remove the fourth bolt, expect the cam to fall off of the actuator as you try to move it and get it out of the valve cover."

The part I don't understand is "expect the cam to fall off the actuator". Is there some sort of small cam as part of this assembly? By looking at it, it appears the screw drive of the actuator simply turns the gear on the cam...so not sure how the cam falls off?? That said,when I removed the actuator on the pass side (Bank 1), I did hear something drop into the head, but could not find anything in the head after the cover was removed. On the Driver's side (Bank 2) there was no sound of anything dropping. Any help in clarifying this would be greatly appreciated!

Sure, I was not trying to be cryptic.

When you remove four screws holding the Vanos Actuator (motor's) on each side, the cam will drop off the vanos screw drive. That is all. The manual call for manually releasing this tension but it can be done without the computer. I said it as it scared me when I head the cams drop after I pulled the actuators.

Good luck with valve seals.
Are you doing it with motor in the car or out?

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by Wahooz

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but currently in the process of doing valve seals on my 2007 4.8 E70 and using this as a guide to help. In any case, I'm a bit confused by the original posters statement:

"when removing Vanos Actuators: if you do not have a computer to release the tension the actuator has on the adjustable cams, remove three of four bolts, hold Actuator and remove the fourth bolt, expect the cam to fall off of the actuator as you try to move it and get it out of the valve cover."

The part I don't understand is "expect the cam to fall off the actuator". Is there some sort of small cam as part of this assembly? By looking at it, it appears the screw drive of the actuator simply turns the gear on the cam...so not sure how the cam falls off?? That said,when I removed the actuator on the pass side (Bank 1), I did hear something drop into the head, but could not find anything in the head after the cover was removed. On the Driver's side (Bank 2) there was no sound of anything dropping. Any help in clarifying this would be greatly appreciated!

My turn is coming up on my '08 4.8i. I have been putting off fixing my badly leaking valve covers as I know I have to replace the valve stem seals. Now, just recently, I have begun loosing coolant and the leak source has not become obvious. I suspect coolant pipe or valley pan. Regardless, i need to suck it up take care of all these tasks at once. About 128k miles.

I think I am procrastinating as I have done the valve stems before (on my E60) and recall how miserable the task was...18 hours just on the valve stem seals. Oh well...got to do it all just like on my E60.

[Wahooz]

Thanks all for the thoughts...really put my mind at ease as I thought something had dropped into the head but probably just the sound of the cam hitting the stops. Unlike other N62 pics I've seen, the X5 4.8 doesn't have the spring at the end of the cam nor can I see the stops described in other write ups. That said, I'm sure there are stops somewhere I just can't seem to see.

As far as the valve seals, i'm doing them in the car w/ the AGA tool. So far, I've finished all seals on Bank 1 w/ the exception of the intake seal nearest the firewall. I'm not sure how the heck I'm gonna get that one done as it's barely visible due to the cam position sensor mounting block that obscures the view almost entirely, unless you're on top of the engine. I plan on taking off the intake to hopefully give me some add'l room to get both intake valves (Banks 1 & 2) nearest the firewall.

Speaking of removing the intake, how the heck do folks get to the 3 electrical connectors behind the manifold? I was essentially laying on top of the engine and can only feel them, but cannot see how they're connected or even find all 3 connectors (I can feel 2 of them...both large, round connectors right next to each other. Can I remove all the manifold bolts and pull it forward some to get to those? Any other recommendations? Thanks in advance guys....incredibly helpful thus far.

[gregg3gs]

Originally Posted by Wahooz

Thanks all for the thoughts...really put my mind at ease as I thought something had dropped into the head but probably just the sound of the cam hitting the stops. Unlike other N62 pics I've seen, the X5 4.8 doesn't have the spring at the end of the cam nor can I see the stops described in other write ups. That said, I'm sure there are stops somewhere I just can't seem to see.

As far as the valve seals, i'm doing them in the car w/ the AGA tool. So far, I've finished all seals on Bank 1 w/ the exception of the intake seal nearest the firewall. I'm not sure how the heck I'm gonna get that one done as it's barely visible due to the cam position sensor mounting block that obscures the view almost entirely, unless you're on top of the engine. I plan on taking off the intake to hopefully give me some add'l room to get both intake valves (Banks 1 & 2) nearest the firewall.

Speaking of removing the intake, how the heck do folks get to the 3 electrical connectors behind the manifold? I was essentially laying on top of the engine and can only feel them, but cannot see how they're connected or even find all 3 connectors (I can feel 2 of them...both large, round connectors right next to each other. Can I remove all the manifold bolts and pull it forward some to get to those? Any other recommendations? Thanks in advance guys....incredibly helpful thus far.

Shoot me your email address and I'll send you pictures of the connectors on the intake. Damn Photobucket!

[Wahooz]

Originally Posted by gregg3gs

Shoot me your email address and I'll send you pictures of the connectors on the intake. Damn Photobucket!

Thanks gregg .... just pm’d u

[Toothbrush]

Originally Posted by Wahooz

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but currently in the process of doing valve seals on my 2007 4.8 E70 and using this as a guide to help.

Not sure if you're done, but I did the valve stem job back in September (2017) and struggled like everybody else to get the valve covers off without replacing the eccentric sensor/s. However, when it was time to put it all back together, I got my wife to take a look since she has a good eye for that kind of thing and she gave me the best advice ever.

I wish I had taken a pic, but if you can imagine turning the cover nearly vertical, have the front at a slight angle towards the opposite side of the vehicle, you can slide the back corner of the cover right over the eccentric sensor first, and then on/off the engine without too much effort.

You just have to get the angle just right, but if you do it relieves a lot of stress and there's no need for any brute force. I did it with the cross bars and everything AC related in place