35d worsening gas mileage - solved- thermostat/fan/EGR cooler - DIY with pics

[sgrice]

The information below is from RealOEM. The link is here.


No.
Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price
Notes 01 Remanufactured coolant pump, mechanical
1

11517805812 $192.79
ENDED 01 Coolant pump, mechanical
1

11517801063


02 Gasket Steel
1

11517793796 $13.58

03 Torx screw with collar M7X42 4

11147792545 $0.72

04 thermostat with adapter
1

11517805811 $52.64

05 PROFILE-GASKET
1

11517787692 $6.02

06 O-ring
1

11517788984 $1.19

07 backup ring
1

11517788985 $1.61

08 Hex bolt M6X20-ZNS3 4
01/2013 07119904169 $1.25
ENDED 08 Hexagon screw with flange M6X20 4

07119905546 $6.73

09 Connector
1

11127806196 $10.41

10 PROFILE-GASKET
1

11122247745 $5.44

11 Hex bolt with washer M6X25-ZNNIV SI 3

07119905400 $0.65

Notes

• ENDED = the part has been discontinued (no longer available).

So you have the proper part numbers. As shown above, part #2 is "Gasket Steel" - and I remember mine as being metal, but with a black coating on it - as shown in the pictures of diegoX's posts 156 to 161.

I suspect you have the proper gasket - maybe the black coating made you think it had a plastic component?

Anyway, good luck with the job!

[Dieseldonkey]

I got my water pump and thermostat changed for $450 by Indy. I supplied BMW on parts.
Coolant temps 88-93 celcius
Mpg up from 21.5 to 23
Regenerations occurring more frequently and all is well per Carly
Great thread!
145,000 miles and counting

[basilray]

Originally Posted by Dieseldonkey

I got my water pump and thermostat changed for $450 by Indy. I supplied BMW on parts.
Coolant temps 88-93 celcius
Mpg up from 21.5 to 23
Regenerations occurring more frequently and all is well per Carly
Great thread!
145,000 miles and counting

Price sounds about right. I paid similar but had my Indy source a new thermostat as part of it, and he charged me a bit for battery registration. Think all in price was $550 (parts, coolant, labor, etc.)

[diegoX]

Hi guys! Maybe off topic but does anyone know if the OEM EGR Cooler I will about to purchase from the dealer has been improved by BMW? I think mine just gave out and getting inputs if there's a better after market or just stick to the OEM which doesn't last. Thanks

[seattle]

Originally Posted by diegoX

Hi guys! Maybe off topic but does anyone know if the OEM EGR Cooler I will about to purchase from the dealer has been improved by BMW? I think mine just gave out and getting inputs if there's a better after market or just stick to the OEM which doesn't last. Thanks

What do you base your opinion about yours being bad?

[diegoX]

Originally Posted by seattle

What do you base your opinion about yours being bad?

Forgot the exact code but it has something to do with egr cooling system. At 90K miles I think it's time for replacement considering its a common problem. Thanks

[captpilly]

Finally took care of the T-Stat, Water Pump, Idler Pulley, and Fuel Filter today - took about 6 hours in total (My ABC's are missing). Thanks for the great directions - makes senses what you start poking around. I'm a C- mechanic but learning my way.

Only issue was that I replaced a seal on the lower red boost hose - it didn't seem to seat properly when I was under there and sure enough it wasn't set right when I drove off....

I can't quite figure out how to seat it properly - anyone dealt with this?

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by captpilly

Only issue was that I replaced a seal on the lower red boost hose - it didn't seem to seat properly when I was under there and sure enough it wasn't set right when I drove off....

What prompt you to replace the lower red boost hose seal?

TL; DR

While my red boost hose is dry (no oil mist whatsoever), I noticed light oily residue at the intercooler fitting (all around fitting and some minor stains on the thin coolant hose)

I started my T-Stat project late last night, got fan out, got stuck on EGR Cooler electrical plug, going to resume in the morning armed with pliers

Before I put it all together I am wondering if I should
- replace lower red boost hose seal
- and/or pull out intercooler and inspect for cracks
- or just clean it and monitor its condition.

I am loosing approximately 1.0L of oil per 10K miles.
EGR valve has thin soot coating (no blockage)
80K miles, no tunes (except swirl flap delete)

4D18 is the only code I have today (same as 4D16 on MY09-12).
ISTA test plan says SCR cat needs replacement.

[sgrice]

POBEP - my opinion would be that if your red boost hose is dry I would leave it alone.

I feel your pain on the EGR cooler plug. With greater experience it seems that merely pulling back the white tab and squeezing is frequently not enough to disengage. I suggest slipping a small screwdriver probe or end of a pick under the tab and lift it up. The trick described by Shaman (post 159) and referenced in my first post doesn't always work. I use a small screwdriver blade. I have seen others in youtube videos using picks. I thought it was AArodriguez in one of his videos, but I can't find it to refer you to. But a pick or a small screwdriver should get it disconnected.

Your oil consumption is almost precisely what mine was before I put in a Provent catch can. Since then the oil consumption is virtually nil between oil changes.

With respect to replacing SCR - have the NOX sensors pre and post already been checked/replaced? Don't move onto the SCR until you are sure the NOX sensors are good. There are some good posts about dealing with that - make sure you follow the test plan and don't jump to the SCR until the NOX sensors are confirmed good.

Hope that helps, good luck.

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by sgrice

POBEP - my opinion would be that if your red boost hose is dry I would leave it alone.

I feel your pain on the EGR cooler plug. With greater experience it seems that merely pulling back the white tab and squeezing is frequently not enough to disengage. I suggest slipping a small screwdriver probe or end of a pick under the tab and lift it up. The trick described by Shaman (post 159) and referenced in my first post doesn't always work. I use a small screwdriver blade. I have seen others in youtube videos using picks. I thought it was AArodriguez in one of his videos, but I can't find it to refer you to. But a pick or a small screwdriver should get it disconnected.

Your oil consumption is almost precisely what mine was before I put in a Provent catch can. Since then the oil consumption is virtually nil between oil changes.

With respect to replacing SCR - have the NOX sensors pre and post already been checked/replaced? Don't move onto the SCR until you are sure the NOX sensors are good. There are some good posts about dealing with that - make sure you follow the test plan and don't jump to the SCR until the NOX sensors are confirmed good.

Hope that helps, good luck.

sgrice - thanks a lot for quick reply! (and fantastic DIY).

EGR cooler electrical plug - will try yours and Shaman's advise shortly (I remembered that solution was listed, but could not find it last night while in garage).

Oil consumption - I was going to install ProVent last summer, bought parts, but never got around to find welder to make custom cover plate. ProVent is still on my todo list after thermostat, emissions and presumably vacuum pump noise (https://youtu.be/x4l0nDtyNMc).

Famous 4D18 - relevant history
21K mi - 4268 (CEL on), MAF replaced (warranty)
29K mi - 46F2, (CEL on), EGT before SCR (warranty)
36K mi - 4B26, (CEL on), very rough engine start, injector #6 replaced (warranty)
46K mi - 4B26, (CEL on) code was accidentally reset by INDY, BMW refused to do anything without code present
75K mi - 4D18, 4BB2, 42FC (no CEL)
- refilled with fresh DEF through passive tank (transfer pump kicked in after second gallon was added)
- removed metering module - dry as new, no contamination. nothing in the port opening (myself)
- ran metering module test: got approximately 30ml (myself)
76K mi - 4B26 (CEL) the night before my visit to BMW
- both NOx sensors replaced (warranty)
- BMW recommended thermostat replacement (81C)
78K mi - 4D18 (no CEL)
- removed metering module - dry as new (myself)
- ran metering module test: got approximately 30ml (myself)
- checked urea concentration - 33%, within acceptable range (myself)
- ISTA test plan suggests SCR cat replacement as next step

Fuel consumption: http://www.fuelly.com/car/bmw/x5/201...0081/fuelchart

Current engine temp is 80C, (85C during DPF regenerations)

I am thinking to replace SCR Cat while car is still under 8/80 federal warranty for SCR Cat.
Dealer tentatively agreed to replace SCR Cat based on repair history.