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![]() The speaker in place with the new upper bracket and showing the wire terminal. They only cost a couple of dollars, are air tight, allow for easy hook-up and look professional. Yes, that is my blood. Here I used a drawer slider attachment bracket because I have a few in my junk drawer. Lots of other hardware store solutions would work. Note that when you remove the fuse assy there is a bracket with a big hole in it, and this is in a very handy place to attach a bracket. I slid a speed clip on so a sheet metal screw would work, but a number of solutions would work just fine. The bolt that attaches the bracket to the box is an ancient VW 10 mm sheet metal screw that is threaded into the MDF. Apply torque carefully! Again, just to illustrate that a bracket is a good solution. To hold the bottom in, I put door insulation foam peel-off tape on any area that might touch and then some in between that big plastic trunk floor support and the front face of the speaker. It is all good now on even the deepest sounds, although I do need to put some tension on the access door for those "special audio moments". Heh, heh. |
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#2
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That's persistence. Great job and thanks for sharing! Quote:
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#3
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The bolt that attaches the bracket to the box is an ancient VW 10 mm sheet metal screw that is threaded into the MDF. Apply torque carefully! Again, just to illustrate that a bracket is a good solution.
To hold the bottom in, I put door insulation foam peel-off tape on any area that might touch and then some in between that big plastic trunk floor support and the front face of the speaker. It is all good now on even the deepest sounds, although I do need to put some tension on the access door for those "special audio moments". Heh, heh.[/quote] .Hey Carlgo....... how did you attach the screw to the MDF ????? don't you think this would come loose since MDF material will loosen up after time..... |
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#4
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.Hey Carlgo....... how did you attach the screw to the MDF ????? don't you think this would come loose since MDF material will loosen up after time.....[/QUOTE] I just pre-drilled slightly undersize and carefully threaded it in. MDF is hard! I don't expect any problems. If it does come loose, I will use a threaded bushing or JB Weld. I am pretty sure just properly pre-drilling and using any reasonably hefty straight-shank screw(s) will work just fine. All the forces are on a shear, not on a pull like a hinge or drawer front situation. And the bracket is just to keep the box from shifting out so that the speaker doesn't contact the access door. There isn't much clearance. I don't think the forces involved are very violent and it has held up so far, despite my best efforts. |
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#5
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If we assumed 11.5cm depth and 27cm width, the volume will be roughly 12.4 liters (outer diameters) ... still acceptable
__________________
BMW 1M 2012 - Current Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 2011 - Current BMW E93 330i Convertible 2009 - Sold BMW E46 320i 2004 - Sold BMW X5 4.4i 2002 - Sold VW Golf GTI 2000 - Sold BMW 740i 1996 - Sold |
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#6
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looks awesome
I will do the bracket but I need to find a strong 90 degree bracket somewhere
__________________
BMW 1M 2012 - Current Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 2011 - Current BMW E93 330i Convertible 2009 - Sold BMW E46 320i 2004 - Sold BMW X5 4.4i 2002 - Sold VW Golf GTI 2000 - Sold BMW 740i 1996 - Sold |
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#7
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Obama's shrt list for International SAV coordinator!
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The installation was as smooth as silk. I have DSP - kudos again to Essam for his help! There's no way I'm going to put the hatch door back on - No way Jose! The sound is busting out of the amp! I've found some fabric that almost matches the beige interior dead-on, so I'm going either cut a nice large square hole in the hatch door and stretch the fabric over it and the entire door or cut a circular hole and install a grille if I find an appropriate one. Now, and like Carlgo, I'm going tackle a speaker upgrade to really enjoy the sounds. I'm going to do the F/R midbasses first and then look into the midranges/tweeters (as my $$$ allow). Quote:
Last edited by X5-limo; 02-05-2009 at 09:38 PM. |
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#8
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Philly X5 and X5-limo ... what's the progress? Anything installed yet?
__________________
BMW 1M 2012 - Current Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 2011 - Current BMW E93 330i Convertible 2009 - Sold BMW E46 320i 2004 - Sold BMW X5 4.4i 2002 - Sold VW Golf GTI 2000 - Sold BMW 740i 1996 - Sold |
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#9
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![]() This was a real fun but the system ("Essam Box") is installed now and I love it I tried several options - with the cover open/close, with the sub mounted on the cover and the best sound is - without the cover. I will be making an opening in this cover and all I need now is some fabric to stretch over the cover or maybe I will make a speaker grill - went to Home Depot and already have some ideas. ![]() X5 limo- where are you getting the fabric Can you share the secret![]() Also where you got the Alpine connector from? |
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#10
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......don't laugh, but Walmart's fabric department, (of all places!), sells a $3.00, 50" x 70" fleece throw! It's brand name is 'Main Stay'. They are sold in rolled up bundles like mini blanket rolls. If you can't find it, I have enough to cover several hatch grilles.....just let me know. So what design/technique are you coming up with? I was thinking about just stretching some of this material over a cut out in the hatch door but, thinking ahead, I'm figuring it may be more practical, in my situation, to cover a wire mesh across the cut out as this can help protect the subwoofer from any bumps from future pieces of cargo. ...I think you can order the (4-pin molex) Alpine amp connector from their parts distributor, PacParts, Inc., ask for Melissa Marin, (Customer Service Representative) (800)421-5080 Ext. 154 - (800)782-5747 Fax. It's their 'Speaker Input Cord' - P/N 01E11136S01 http://www.pacparts.com/model.cfm?CF...tion=list_part |
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