Subwoofer Project FINISHED!!! (Enclosure Dimensions Included)

[NextGen]

I went back and started reading this thread from the beginning again and I see that carlgo did do a review on his install. It is always nice to get another opinion. This looks like a solid option for all of us who want to upgrade. The downside for me is that I don't own all the tools required to do this right (and with less effort). Maybe it is time to get new tools.

Essam - thanks

[ravic]

Yeah, i did not have many tools also when i started.

I purchased a speed saw (Ryobi version of Roto-Zip) to cut the circual hole. most of these come with a circular cutting tool. ($39 without battery at HD). I needed this type of tool for a long time for cutting other stuff.
You will also need something that will let you cut the straight cuts (I used a circular saw)


I would say that i am at 101 for carpentry skills and i still managed to build a decent box. I did have minor errors at the corners of the box, but it is not important for a box that will be hidden.

Here is my opinion on how this turned out. I listen to a lot of hip-hop music.

1. It provides decent output for a small sub box.
2. It will not generate bone rattling bass. At which point, most other things in the car would start vibrating (Which i hate).
3. It will not beat a free standing sub box with larger volume.
4. But this is an excellent choice for a sub that is out of way and does not require you to relocate spare tires and stuff.
5. It is not overpowering and at the same time the difference can be felt.


I do not consider myself an audiophile, but i always crave for some decent sounding audio equipment. I am not one of those that would spend 10k for an home audio setup, but i did spend 2k. $500 for a car sub is not my cup of tea, although they probably sound a little better. Hopefully this will you give you some perspective.


Also another thing i noticed is that my gas cap cover started ratling with heavy bass if i keep the inside flap closed. Looks like there is no easy way for the air to escape

[X5-limo]

Originally Posted by Essam Khafagi

I guess with some modification to the face of the OEM box you can fit the 10" sub ... just cut the face and try to put some wood instead

It is too late anyway

.....it's not too late, though I plan on sticking with the Pioneer. I'm clueless in this area, (this thread is about the total sum of my knowledge) so your suggestions will enlighten me and hundreds (thousands?) of others about this project. The OEM box has its (2) 5" woofers installed diagonally . Technically speaking, it's possible to cut that whole section out of the OEM box, install and seal a piece of wood to cover the part I cut out and then mount the Pioneer woofer onto the newly piece of wood.....? That sounds brilliantly simple! (And), if that's all possible, do I keep this modified OEM box connected to the factory amp or would it be better/I have to connect this modified OEM box to the Alpine?

This gets interesting'er and interesting'er!

Originally Posted by NextGen

I went back and starting reading this thread from the beginning again and I see that carlgo did do a review on his install. It is always nice to get another opinion. This looks like a solid option for all of us who want to upgrade. The downside for me is that I don't own all the tools required to do this right (and with less effort). Maybe it is time to get new tools.

I feel 'ya! I was exactly where you are now, just a couple weeks ago. It's the same about the X5 in general.....the guys on this forum are great-everyone is so helpful!

[ravic]

I would definitely use the OEM box.

You can always close the second 5" hole with a cirular cut piece of 1/2" MDF and some liquid nails adhesive.

Then expand cut another hole with 23.8 diameter and has atleast 3 1/2" of space for the new sub to fit.

[X5-limo]

Originally Posted by ravic

I purchased a speed saw (Ryobi version of Roto-Zip) to cut the circual hole. most of these come with a circular cutting tool. ($39 without battery at HD). I needed this type of tool for a long time for cutting other stuff.
You will also need something that will let you cut the straight cuts (I used a circular saw)


I would say that i am at 101 for carpentry skills and i still managed to build a decent box. I did have minor errors at the corners of the box, but it is not important for a box that will be hidden.

Here is my opinion on how this turned out. I listen to a lot of hip-hop music.

1. It provides decent output for a small sub box.
2. It will not generate bone rattling bass. At which point, most other things in the car would start vibrating (Which i hate).
3. It will not beat a free standing sub box with larger volume.
4. But this is an excellent choice for a sub that is out of way and does not require you to relocate spare tires and stuff.
5. It is not overpowering and at the same time the difference can be felt.


I do not consider myself an audiophile, but i always crave for some decent sounding audio equipment. I am not one of those that would spend 10k for an home audio setup, but i did spend 2k. $500 for a car sub is not my cup of tea, although they probably sound a little better. Hopefully this will you give you some perspective.


Also another thing i noticed is that my gas cap cover started ratling with heavy bass if i keep the inside flap closed. Looks like there is no easy way for the air to escape

...you sound to be about where I'm at, though I'd rate myself at the pre-101 carpentry skill level and a hip-hop/reggae guy.

I just got my box to fit but haven't cut the hole....I was going to try to do it with a jig saw(?)

You cleared up one pont, for me at least: I'm definitely going to modify that hatch door to let let the generated air escape!

[X5-limo]

Originally Posted by ravic

I would definitely use the OEM box.

You can always close the second 5" hole with a circular cut piece of 1/2" MDF and some liquid nails adhesive.

Then expand cut another hole with 23.8 diameter and has atleast 3 1/2" of space for the new sub to fit.

Hmmmm....very interesting!! The shape, contours and flats of the face of this OEM box (by design?) will mean that I'll have to seal both of the 5" holes and then attach a strip of wood (with adhesive) along the lowered (in depth[the 'contour']) side to serve as a build-up and then add that 27cm X 27cm piece of 1/2" MDF. The 23.8 cm diaemter cut will have to be centered about the '8 o'clock position' from center due to the contour outline of the face of the box.....it's doable......

Now, knowing all of this, but for argument's sake let's say all things being equal, do you think I'll have noticeable sound quality improvement using the 10" Pioneer woofer in the OEM box over Essam's?

[Essam Khafagi]

limo,

The volume of the OEM box is larger and it fits perfectly in place. I do not recommend connecting to the OEM amp. Wire the new sub to the Alpine amp.

I guess OEM box will not give any ratles at all. Just make sure not to leave any space between the new wood face and the original box.

If you did not like it, you still have the wood box. Simple swap!

[TwinsPoppa]

Originally Posted by ravic

Also another thing i noticed is that my gas cap cover started ratling with heavy bass if i keep the inside flap closed. Looks like there is no easy way for the air to escape

To noone in particular, just curious and want to learn:

Why do you think this is happening? Is it because of the different subwoofer designs? Does the OEM have an air hole?

Or is it simply the OEM did not put out enough thump to rattle the gas door? In which case then that means the problem was introduced because you guys were too successful!

I'd rather not have to cut the inside panel but let's see what the consensus is first.

Keep it up guys .. .great info!

[Essam Khafagi]

Jose..

As you have DSP and OEM subs, you should also consider installing the Pioneer sub on the OEM box after modifying the face.. I think this would be easier than building a new box.

[X5-limo]

Originally Posted by Essam Khafagi

As you have DSP and OEM subs, you should also consider installing the Pioneer sub on the OEM box after modifying the face.. I think this would be easier than building a new box.

I'll install your box since it's about finished and then look into the tricky conversion of this OEM subwoofer box........or try to sell it if it proves too difficult to convert - (it's barely wide enough at it's narrowest point to accomodate a 23.8cm cut)

Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa

Why do you think this is happening? Is it because of the different subwoofer designs?

Or is it simply the OEM did not put out enough thump to rattle the gas door?

Door #2....It's because the 'bass' produced by (my) so-called 'Premium Sound' subwoofer box borders on criminal fraud ....it's nada! That's why, IMHO, so many people have gravitated to Essam's design!

Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa

Does the OEM have an air hole?

No! It's a multi-contoured shaped (fiberglass?) enclosure with (2) 5" woofers

Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa

I'd rather not have to cut the inside panel but let's see what the consensus is first.

I hear 'ya, (pun intended ), but, since Essam's box apparently kicks-out somewhat (and as any subwoofer should, except apparently BMW's), there is going to be some vibration - it comes with the territory. So, instead of creating more problems from the natural vibrations, I am going to let the vibrated air escape into the car's cabin as it should. I can remove the hatch or, (my preference), modify the hatch cover in one of two ways that I previously mentioned.

Totally personal preferences, these are.....