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  #51  
Old 07-15-2010, 04:01 PM
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Just wanted to add that I just replaced an entire assembly using the 65839237706 part. Grabbed it from my local dealer for $100 ($500 core, but who cares, they can have the broken assembly back).

Took about 10 minutes to change. Piece of cake. You just need a T9 torx driver...
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  #52  
Old 07-16-2010, 03:21 AM
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Bare in mind that is a recon part so only the laser has been replaced.
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  #53  
Old 07-16-2010, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccfj1 View Post
Bare in mind that is a recon part so only the laser has been replaced.
Does it matter if it works? Unless there is a brand new assembly for the same price?
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  #54  
Old 07-16-2010, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sna77 View Post
Does it matter if it works?
No, just it may not last as long as BN laser assembly unit, that's all I'm saying.

Quote:
Unless there is a brand new assembly for the same price?
BN is a little more, 120 Euros.
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  #55  
Old 07-16-2010, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccfj1 View Post
No, just it may not last as long as BN laser assembly unit, that's all I'm saying.



BN is a little more, 120 Euros.

Where can I get one of these? (For future reference)...

Thx
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  #56  
Old 07-16-2010, 06:59 AM
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Sorry, its €146

DVD M3 4.6 (9307.006.30401/2) - Car navigation parts - Loader, Laser voor uw auto
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  #57  
Old 07-16-2010, 07:06 AM
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Great, thanks. Thats about €171 with shipping to the US = circa $220 USD, almost tripple the US price for a refurb of $80... For now I'll take my chance with the refurb unit...

Thx for the links
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  #58  
Old 08-08-2010, 06:17 AM
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I just got my black cap laser and I have a couple questions before I begin changing the laser unit on my MK4.

When disabling the MK4 it's really no need pulling the fuse or disconnecting the negative pole of the battery, right? The important thing is to make sure the red light on the MK4 is off, waiting a couple of minutes?

No need to reconnect or connect the cables in a special order?

I'm a little bit concerned about removing the shielding plate and the smoldering part. It will be the first time in my life using a smoldering iron, I just purchased myself a cheap 30W iron. ;-) Any basic tips or advices?

Looks like some people are using the smoldering iron both when removing and fastening the shielding plate?

Quoting Snoopyone:
Suggestion:
"I found it easier to slightly pry the shielding cover up while I heated up the solder joint. When the solder joint reached its melting point the cover popped up. This saved a lot of time trying to get the desoldering braid to absorb the solder, and it made it easier to reassemble (just reverse the process). "

Hmmmmm, well, worst case scenario is having to purchase a entire dvd mechanism unit for approximately $200?
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  #59  
Old 08-14-2010, 05:39 AM
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Yes makatech just use a small screwdriver for this.

Shield removal: Heat the joint, use the screwdriver and pry apart. Hold apart for a couple of seconds while the solder cools

Shield replace: Hold the shield off the solder, heat the solder with the iron and when it has melted use the screwdriver to push the shield into it and allow to cool for a couple of seconds whilst holding with the screwdriver.
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  #60  
Old 08-14-2010, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sna77 View Post
Just wanted to add that I just replaced an entire assembly using the 65839237706 part. Grabbed it from my local dealer for $100 ($500 core, but who cares, they can have the broken assembly back).

Took about 10 minutes to change. Piece of cake. You just need a T9 torx driver...
This fixes the disk read/please wait message issue (assuming good disc, etc)?

I looked on realoem.com and that part number did not compute...

What do I ask for when I go into the parts department?
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