you are missing the point on tightening main caps(and many other fasteners)to a specified "degree", not torque. The reason they do this is 1-bolts are often one time use and they stretch. the second is that to use a degree wheel specified for tightening is much more reliable than a random torque wrench. I have used torque wrench for years, but when I just re did my M62 I learned that I needed to do things differently. You weren't clear as to whether you used the right tool or not. If you didn't, I would recommend doing it all again per the factory instructions.

Thanks!! It does help I work 3 - 12's... Four days off in a row means I have a lot of time to get a lot done...

Thanks!! Welcome!! I'm not sure about a newbie posting... Something to think about if one doesn't exist...

The search function works really well... A few key words and it should get you to the posts that you need...

Enjoy!!

Good day... Let me first say as a disclaimer that the work I do here is just me wanting to share all I do and love with BMW's and how they work... If you follow in my footsteps and rebuild your N62, do so with the methods and procedures designated by BMW as to be accurate... This posting is also not going to turn into a debate with how some do it this way and how some do it that way... This is how I am doing it... I will say that I was NOT using a degree wheel for the 100*... I guesstimated... Slightly past 90* is my unit of measure, but I did that with a lot of "CDO" (which is "OCD" in alphabetical order as it should be).... With each guesstimated 100*, I adjusted the torque wrench to see if it would click at the new number... I had 10 tries to get to an approximate torque value... I do understand TTY bolts and the such, but I was just curious to how close the bolts would come to a specific, uniformed torque value with this method... After all, if the initial inch-pound torque wrench is inconsistent, that degree of difference multiplies exponentially (or does it?)...

Additionally, where it really doesn't matter too much with two bolts holding a cap in place, the head bolt pattern is very different... I will go over this in far more detail when I get there, but I experienced a huge difference in torque value between the head bolts when I did my 2001 540i 4.4L... If you just tighten to 33 ft/lbs, then do 100*, then do another 100*, all three steps in the correct sequence, I found the first four bolts tightened were of a significantly lower torque... I discovered that if you leave all head bolts at 33 ft/lbs on one pass, the force to get the first few bolts to 33 was relaxed as the other bolts took their share of the load... I did three passes, in sequence to finally get all the bolts to share the same load at 33 ft/lbs...

What I really need is one of those doohickey things hanging from my ceiling that tightens all to the right torque all at the same time!! Anyone have one I can use?! Talk about time savings!!

Again, not a debate, just me sharing how I'm having fun!!

Thanks for sharing!!

Amazing work.

I'm sure you aren't worried about the resulting tq number on the bolts... seems you've done this before and will be okay. Keep up the good work. Me, on the other hand, would be sh*tting bricks... ;)

I've done a couple of heads and the torquing procedure always scares the hell out of me.

Great progress. I like your torquing procedure/ value discovery.

Good day all!!!

Thanks guys and gals!!!

So, today I was bored and only had stuff to clean... Still no new parts... Got an email stating that they had to wait on some parts from "BMW" and would get the stuff sent out as soon as the complete order is together... That will "learn me" to order everything at once...

I found these in the hardware for the valley pan... I have a bunch of hardware left over from my other projects and actually had exact matches for these... I think I also have to replace a few from the rear cover too...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psazakma3x.jpg

Oh, probably to the disapproval of some out there, I refuse to put a new cover on the rear and valley pan because they don't just sell the gasket... And, it begs the definition of insanity to keep doing the same thing expecting a different result... I'm ditching the factory seal and going 100% high temp sealant... I don't feel like pulling the stupid thing back apart cause of a coolant leak at the rear of the motor...

This is the oil pump... I don't think anyone has pulled this apart to see what it looks like on the inside, so I figured I would... To my surprise, I found the top filter spring inside the pump...

Here is the dirty pump pulled apart... I did have all the bolts in the location they came from, but they fell out moving to the work bench... So, that was a puzzle too...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psw3xjc6h6.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psak2iko1a.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pspckemggb.jpg

Don't forget about the spring...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps5grqxq6m.jpg

Goes here...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pskftdgt1y.jpg

These go here...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psaxrpa8il.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps0dkwbw6r.jpg

These have dots on one side... They weren't facing the same way for some reason... I doubt it matters and was just put together in Italy this way... It is hard to see the dot on the ring... It is at the top of the ring...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pswcsnbarl.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psoibcojg1.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psey6e3bqb.jpg

Sleeve locks drive shaft in the pump...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psykkygf33.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psnjdcptay.jpg

They can't get mixed up if the pump is to actually work again...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps5sn3bvz2.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psyokureth.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psaqa68uct.jpg

I figured out that all the bolts needed to stick out this far prior to tightening...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps5oyzodbt.jpg

The longer, thinner tube will start before the larger pipe so no fighting in getting them both started...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pszzwtsm7r.jpg

You should turn the drive shaft while pushing the end piece on... it is a tight fit, so be patient!! This locates the end piece, but it would be better to tighten these with all parts locked in where they should be first...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pskt8jpdm2.jpg

This is what it should look like when it's on all the way... both machined ends should be just barely visible on the large pipe... the thinner tube is squashed in place...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pstwlqmrjh.jpg

The mounting bolt hole for the side with the drive shaft has almost no clearance compared to the other five mounting points...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pscp2papx8.jpg

All four main parts had engraved numbers... none matched...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psrmxhlgiv.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psr9gqjhh6.jpg

This is the pump pick-up screen... This is stout!

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pscofxg9gx.jpg

and goes here... Gasket goes on next... and this can get put on backwards...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psmmqwxezt.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps4m6vqoj1.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psctphyonu.jpg

Getting these lock rings out wasn't too hard once I figured out how... This method is dangerous!! I had one pop out and landed outside of the garage... Cover with your hand and use the pliers to hold on to it! Only the one tip of the pliers is in here...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psenqgkej2.jpg

Put one end in and get the pliers under the ring... squeeze ring with the pliers and push down until it pops out... violently...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pseflo90o5.jpg

It is a shame I had to buy whole new parts... the plastic part, with it's own part number, is the only thing that needs to be new...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps0u5ljuwz.jpg

These looked nearly new... by comparison of the other 4.4L BMW motors I've done...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psod3qkxbw.jpg

And the best part of the day... Trying to get this plug out, I discovered a previous owner or shop tech over tightened the drain plug and rounded it out fairly well... Not sure if yous guys and gals know, but there is a torque setting on the cap itself... one for the plug and one for the cap... Sheesh!!! I need a new drain plug... No normal bolt will do...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps7mwahlco.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psemxrw5iu.jpg

Oh, one more thing... I took the center of the filter housing out... Just cause... it seemed as if the machining of the threads didn't go well... it broke some threads coming out and the plastic threads looks wavy in one location... I've never had issues taking them out before today... In the event they do that on purpose (instead of using Loctite), I'd advise you leave yours in place...

That is about it... I did clean up the chain covers... oil pan is next... maybe I will get some parts soon!!!

Cheers all!!!

Excellent work and progress! I have a small request/question if you don't mind: Did you pull out the oil filter housing that's attached to the oil pump by any chance? There is a spring valve in there that for some of us has fallen out during oil change and has created quite a debate on the nessesity of it. I posted a pic of mine in one of my threads (pressure relief valve falls out during oil change (or something like that)). You have already confirmed it's not in the oil pump which is good news.

BMW X5 4.8iS 2005

^He is working on an M62. Not sure, but I think the N62 filter setup is completely different if you are talking about the X5 in your signature.

Good day!!

My internet is acting like dial-up today, but I finally got to that thread you posted at the end of March... I only saw a picture of the oil pump... However, this is the spring I found inside my oil pump... Now, keep in mind I pulled the pump when the engine was on the stand... And I put the pump on the floor in the garage with it "upside down" as in relation to how it's positioned in a running motor... I'm surprised more debris didn't get in there... Food for thought!!! Keep the cap on when storing!!

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psskzfacpy.jpg

I'm guessing this is where it goes...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psvxymutoc.jpg

Ideally, this is also the part that I took off that seemed like things weren't quite right... Like the threads (where the dark center plastic piece threads into) got buggered up somehow, but was still used... This was made in Italy... This should come out and is actually part #2 in the picture from your post... Part #1 is only $93... I may get one if I can't find a good used part... I'll inquire about that today...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pshbakghmc.jpg

That part is also where the spring came from (I'M GUESSING!) as there wasn't anywhere else it would look right... There is another spring under this one that keeps a valve closed... Not positive what that is for, but I'm going to guess it is for pressure relief if the filter becomes so clogged that oil can't pass thru it...

Let me know if this helped... I'll take more pictures if needed...

Cheers!!

UPDATE!!! The Realoem filter housing price is seriously outdated... #1 in the picture above is no longer $92.03... It now has an MSRP of $310.23... I'll be sticking with the one I have...

I think I saw someone write it was N62 engine in this thread...my bad.

BMW X5 4.8iS 2005

No, no... I'm working on a 2004 4.4L... N62 motor... My oil pump looks like the one in the realoem pictures you had in your "Non-return valve parts falling...." thread...

All these different motors are confusing!!!

Cheers!!!