Re scanned again today and got the following codes.
F6 Ike no CAN identification
F7 Ike no CAN identification
F8 Ike no CAN identification
8D Ike EGS signal line disturbed
44 Ike oil pressure sensor

5140 no message receiver EGS transmitter DME-DDE

I disconnected the ABS module as someone suggested this but it did not
Help. I have clean all the connects I can find.
Still
No start.

Appears something is shorting out the can buss. You may have to start unplugging modules to find it. What do you mean discount abs? Did you unplug that module


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Sorry. Disconnected the abs module. So you suggest I disconnect other modules? Such as ?

Still no luck. Pulled the dde , abs, ags and ike modules and still seem to have the Can bus issues. I believe the only thing using can bus that I haven’t pulled is the steering angle sensors. Does anyone know where/ how to pull this module?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...0d-sav/Ui1cyZi

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...column/EVGG82L

Still no luck. I am starting to think that it may not be an electronically issue and that I should re investigate the initial fuel injector warning. Does anyone know how I can check the injectors for leak off with not being able to start the engine??? I know that the Foxwell can monitor the injector pressure. Will this help me? It’s driving me crazy!

Argh! Still not starting.
But I am starting to think that the can bus faults Are symptoms of the battery lossing power. Once the battery is full charged and then put back in the car and re scan the codes that appear change.

The only consistent code is 5140 no message receiver EGS transmitter DME-DDE And the fuel injection system warning and trans fail

Does this code represent The trans fail warning?

I tried to do some live monitoring today with my NT510 and the rail pressure was showing N/a?? Even when I tried to crank it over it did not change.

Does this help pin point anything?

Would a faulty fuel pressure regulator cause this? Would This flag a fault code?

Any input would be appreciated. I am sick of throwing money at it without luck.

How are you keeping the car powered? Battery charger?
Trying to start with anything less than optimum possibly could contribute to issues; or at least having a 50 amp power supply you could eliminate that one chance of it being part of the issue.

I have just been recharging the battery and then putting it back in when I have time to work on it

Quick note, a battery that has been charged and discharged “too many” times can “sag” under load. Charging excites the acids in the battery and can premature wear out a battery - I’m not at all saying it is the answer, but you may want to grab a new, fresh battery and a good battery charger or as deepblonde suggest, a starter box to make absolutely sure that you are maintaining correct voltage. I can assure you that my 05 4.4i is very picky when it comes to battery condition and voltage.

All that said, it would be an interesting test if you could somehow provide fuel and fuel pressure externally to “bypass” the in tank pump and the half full fuel transfer issue - that said, I’d Ha e to brain storm for a bit on how exactly to do that...

Apologies not more help at the moment, but I will see if anything pops in to my head [emoji106]


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