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Yep, the good ole right-hand rule. Brings back good memories of cross products. :) The loosy/tightie guideline also doesn't apply if the threads are reversed, obviously. |
:wow:..................:wow:
Tamba, After you sort out removing the wheels and next time you get close to not much fuel left, are you going to be right removing your filler cap, which goes to the left (I'm sure that's right if I'm not wrong) before filling up right to the top ?? Ah, forget it:fired: JCL, the man club call is a ripper :thumbup: |
I can sort of sympathize with the momentary "loss of focus" and
"I can't remember", though it tends to creep in at my age, not to someone much younger...I think I would have tried to find the answer on one of the sites below, as opposed to asking it here. Funnyazz thread, though! GL,mD questions and answers - Yahoo! Search Results |
Use the "right hand rule". This simple to use procedure is to point the thumb of the right hand in the direction one wants the screw, nut or bolt to move, then the fingers of the hand will curl in the direction one needs to turn the screw, nut or bolt to achieve the desired result.
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Maybe he is used to working on the drivers side of a 1962 Chrysler?
:-) |
I just want to know how he is going to get the bottle of paint open.
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My most recent vehicle with left hand threads on the left side of the vehicle was a 1997 Morgan, the one shown below, owned through 2003. No, it isn't a kit car. It was a +4 model, 4 seater, special light alloy wings and bonnet, walnut dash, additional chrome, and Rover T16 power. While the chassis was steel, the body frame was wood, built like furniture. There was a reason for the LH wheel nuts in this case, since they were centre-lock wire wheels, with a single spinner nut. I was thinking that this is getting pretty far off topic, but then I remembered that BMW bought Rover (sadly), and in fact Morgan brought out models with V8 BMW power around this time. We return now to our regular programming. |
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