With what I went through with my two, I am sure they were talking day and night. :rant:

You guys have it easy. ;) We have 4. And they are constantly bickering over who's more deserving of dads attention. :D

OB, What's the cost for rebuilding your steering rack over there?

Here it's about 1,500-2,000 riyals if they do the removal and reinstallation.

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There are a couple of independent rack reman outfits here, (Rack Doctor and Detroit Axle) but from reading all the reviews I am not confidant in the outcome or the downtime.

FCP has a BMW reman Bosch/ZF rack for $583 plus a refundable $450 core charge. That is complete to the end of the boots.

Fire the wallet cannon and be done with it. :thumbup:

I replaced my first door handle mechanism. I have done all four window regulators but this was the first door handle that failed. I actually found the job much easier than the window regulators, and had it done in about an hour. I used a Febi replacement which I bought off ebay for $51 shipped. Not too bad in the grand scheme of things.



I also got the Foxwell and the multimeter out again and took apart the wire connector for my third brake light, trying to figure out what was going on. I checked for continuity from ground to the neutral wire in the connector, and continuity was good. Then I checked for voltage when pressing the brake pedal, and there is no voltage at all at that connector at any time. (I made sure to turn the key to the on position before pressing the brake pedal.)



I looked through my Bentley manual but as far as I can tell, the power wire for the third brake light comes directly out of the lighting control module with no fuse, CB or relay of any kind. So I am a bit confused. It's much harder to check wiring now that Newtis is down though, the hard copy manual is difficult to interpret. Anyone have any suggestions?

Your Bentley is accurate according to TIS. After X138 (the connector up in the boot lid) it is a single black/yellow wire all the way to the LCM. I think I would start by testing the black/yellow wire in the right side of the rear compartment (should be in one of the bundles running down the right side D pillar). If you have +12v there (or whatever voltage the LCM uses for the light) then your likely culprit is a break in the wire at the rubber boot thing where the wire would go from the body of the vehicle. Very common for those wires to break after years of opening and closing the boot lid.

Well, now that's some helpful advice CW. I will check that when I can get myself out to open it up again. Thank you!

Took my X in to have alignment done since changing the bad left front axle and putting on the adjustable rear control arms for camber. Of course, they can't get the toe in spec because I lowered it two inches. They can now get the rear camber into spec. So, just dropped $160 on Meghan adjustable upper control arms so they can get the toe in spec. Until then I continue to scrub the shit out of the rear tires. And of course, they discovered an inner rear axle boot that had let go. $110 for a replacement boot from FCP. Oh joy. Just when I thought I had everything taken care of for a while. :banghead:

Replaced the battery. Lasted 6 years.

That's one of the things preventing me (and the cost keeps rising) from getting a Quickjack. I'd be tempted to look under the cars too often and, like Overboost recently, would surely find things that "need" attention. :bustingup

Not sure if it would have helped during the E70 trans swap I am doing now either. Have needed a lot of access out the sides of the truck for both egress and for jacks to support drivetrain.