| Fifty150hs |
05-04-2021 11:25 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn
(Post 1203379)
Which part didn't fit? I have had either side not fit initially but in both cases got it to fit.
1) when didn't fit into dif, tuned out to be incorrect snap ring, just swapped old ring from old axle
2) when didn't fit into hub was just surface rust on the "new" axle and inside hub.
I made a tool from the end of an old axle that is small enough to pound completely though. The end is cut off to have a sharp edge. It scrapes out all rust. I pound it though the hub until I can push though witout tools. I use a wire wheel and drill to clean up the axle end.
Important tip: always test fit hub/axle joint before installing a new axle/hub. Also best to test fit the dif side without the clip to make sure it goes in without effort.
|
The CV at the diff was extra thick which would require longer bolts to install. I didn't have longer bolts. I have a reman on the way. I'll swap that in, just so I don't have to deal with the CV. They are a PITA. Come apart easy. Go back together not so much.
Went back and checked the info on the boot I bought. Turns out I effed up and bought one for a manual transmission X instead of auto. :banghead:
I was hoping to also get my new Megan racing adjustable toe arms installed after I did the "easy" axle swap, so that will get done this weekend. Lowering my X made it so they couldn't get the rear alignment into spec. I put adjustable camber arms hoping that's all I'd have to do. No joy. They couldn't get the toe into spec. Ran around long enough with the toe out of spec on the right rear that I scrubbed the shit out of it and I'll need to be replacing my rear tires now. :banghead: FML |
