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Picked up rear fender arches with the flares on them. Trying to make a 4.4is [emoji16][emoji16]
But The guy has two 2003 4.6is’ and they are for sale. Pump the bakes lads, there’s a catch. One is Black, good interior, silver trim, straight body, buuuuut the motor needs to be put back together annnnd installed. As it sits, the guy wants $1200. Don’t know the mileage The other is Emola Red, interior is not that great, no motor, body is straight, front and rear bumpers normal wear and tear. No silver gauge cluster These are in Washington state by the way. Any, thought I’d share. Maybe one of you X5 fans would be willing to have something shipped to you. If you’re interested, I can put you in contact with the guy. PM me. Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com |
I discovered that if my AC won’t run because the electric fan is defective I can jumpstart it with my fox well and it will stay running.
So while I am waiting to get my next paycheck and order a replacement I can at least have aC as long as I’m driving fast enough for the manual fan and motion to do the job to cool the condenser. My first try this trick through the HVAC menu and it would not stay running but when I go through the DME menu to active test and engage the AC compressor it will stay running. |
I installed a used AHM (towing) module along with a wiring harness from seller "bahgelsson" off ebay. I had to take off the bumper cover to route the wiring, and then had to trim it to fit the wiring plugs, but overall it looks very good and now I have factory tow wiring with a new OEM-quality combo plug (4-pin and 7-pin). I am waiting on another pin so I can wire in my tekonsha.
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Wasted an entire friggin' day with what should have been a simple axle swap. Got an inexpensive axle, pulled the old one with the cracked boot. Figured out the replacement wouldn't fit. I had previously ordered a replacement boot from FCP before I had come across the "deal" on the axle. So I pulled the broken boot off and the CV joint, put the new boot on and went through the agony of dealing with the CV. Got it back together and slid it up to mate with the CV collar only to discover it was too big. Called around to see if any of my local auto parts stores might have an axle not expecting they would. They didn't. Since I need the truck for work tomorrow I pulled the CV joint off again, pulled the boot that didn't fit and put the old one back on. Before I did that I cleaned the boot and super glued the crack as a temporary fix to try and slow down the flinging of grease under the truck. Then went through the torture of putting the CV joint back together, again. Then I put the axle back in. After test driving, surprising to me was the glued crack hadn't opened up yet. Ordering an axle and I'll be talking to FCP about the "Genuine BMW" boot tomorrow. What a frustrating day.
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I am also surprised the genuine boot wouldn't fit..unless your orig axle was not OEM. Good thing you are in CA...just getting the axle out/in in the rusty parts of the country are a bear. |
There are two sizes of boot. Real oem has pictures of the axle to determine which
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Very cool. How did you manage that?
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Which part didn't fit? I have had either side not fit initially but in both cases got it to fit. 1) when didn't fit into dif, tuned out to be incorrect snap ring, just swapped old ring from old axle 2) when didn't fit into hub was just surface rust on the "new" axle and inside hub. I made a tool from the end of an old axle that is small enough to pound completely though. The end is cut off to have a sharp edge. It scrapes out all rust. I pound it though the hub until I can push though witout tools. I use a wire wheel and drill to clean up the axle end. Important tip: always test fit hub/axle joint before installing a new axle/hub. Also best to test fit the dif side without the clip to make sure it goes in without effort. |
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