Ah, I removed the "not" in your post and read it as "mind you, this was all done in a day." Apparently reading is hard. :D

You're right about e clutch being/bushing failure being typical. That's what took out my 6hp26z in the e70. Threw in an 88k mile trans and had valve body rebuilt when attempting to fix the old trans. It was a hail Mary so want too upset when it didn't fix the trans. I won't be putting in zf lg6 though... Going with Valvoline max life multi vehicle. Lg6 was too thin for my liking when I was experimenting with different trans fluids. Tried pentosin, liqui moly, zf lg6, and redline fluids. Valvoline was the only one that would get the trans back into 4th gear at all.

Have 6 quarts of lg6 if anyone local wants to buy them...

Recent work and upcoming
 

Last week decided to change the oil after 3000 miles and about a year since the previous oil change. Also emptied the power steering reservoir and refilled it with fresh fluid. Both fluids drained did not contain any obvious issues. No codes in the DME, indicating the engine systems all settled back in to a working routine after the long slumber it had between 2015-2019.

A few weeks back I put in the ABS module for the third time and things are finally working again as designed. The refurbished module I got last January started to give me errors for the ABS pump (15) as soon as the weather warmed up. The error appeared only once the car came up to operating temp and was then parked for a few minutes, clearly a heat soak issue. In the mornings it was always ok. After checking/cleaning the contacts between the module and the valve block did not help, I got a replacement sent out by module repair Inc. Great service from Gino.

Since the left headlight had to come out anyway to get at the ABS module, I put back the (re-)modified headlights which I now like a lot. They look like they were meant to be this way. See picture below.

I am still down one key and struggling to make a used key work by transplanting the chip into my own key. Not sure why this doesn't work.....

In the process of messing with my keys I let my battery run down and the GM3 slipped in to permanent error with INPA reporting "energy savings mode". ISTA showed Transport Mode. Seemingly impossible to clear with INPA or ISTA. Dealer wanted $179 just to check. There are many GM3 modules on Ebay for a few $ and I decided to get a used one with the same part and SW number. After installing it in the car all the lost functions immediately came back (Central Lock, wipers, interior lights). Checked that all the coding was the same as in the original module and fix done.

So now I need to install the permanent wiring for the AEs and fix the mirror folding mechanism on the driver's side with some new gears that have been lying around. Another long delayed task is to adjust the new screen I installed in the NAV for position, which is slightly off to the right, and wire the OEM microphone to the Bluebus.... Still haven't put the summer tires on as there is a bit more use to be had from the (excellent) Dunlop winter tires but they are definitely being retired this summer. The paint is in need of a clay and polish session. These are small tasks best handled on weekend mornings but none are terribly urgent.

The E53 is running super smooth and wife/kids run most errands with it :) I put a roof rack on to carry the longer 12-16 feet trim pieces I need to complete my house remodel, so I wind up using it for Home Depot runs......

In September it looks like both kids will attend college in person again (they have been virtual since March last year) and my son is likely to use the E53 as his DD, completing about 70-80 miles a day. Hopefully I will have time to get all the small niggles fixed before that. EDIT: I also need to get the windshield replaced which has been cracked for years.....

Funny you mentioned how lg6 seems thin. I agree. I too think it seems thinner so I chose it with the thought that I am breaking in new clutches and would like to use it because of that. To be honest, this will be the first time that I actually used LG6. I have used Pentosin, Febi, and Ravenol and all seem to work just fine (except when my tranny started acting up). I think my tranny worked pretty good with Ravenol even with the bushing issue since I had fewer Fail Transafe issues. I just couldn't find it available at the time I was searching for more. I have also got a case of Mercon SP that I will probably use later after the break-in. Truthfully, I think as long as it meets the Shell ATF M-1375.4 specification it will work just fine.

How hard is it to remove and install the transmission? I realize that may be a vague question, but just trying to gauge the difficulty level. Is it a matter of time and patience or?

Remove transmission.
 

On the E53 V8 it can be done single-handedly but a helper makes it less annoying to lift the exhaust out of the way and when splitting the trans from the engine.

You need lift or a flat surface where you can raise the car at least a foot off the ground. Remember, the car will there immobilized for a few days or even weeks depending on what it is you need to do.

Some of the bell housing bolts are not so easy to access. You will need some long extensions for your socket set and knuckles or flex joints. Removing the exhaust maybe an issue as the studs in the manifold can be brittle and the bolts joining front to rear can seize. (Make sure you get a MAP gas burner to assist wit rusty fasteners)

A transmission jack is helpful but I did mine without one. The two top bell housing bolts are easier to access from the top. At the time I did the valley pan at the same time, so a lot of stuff was off the top of the motor already. Not impossible to tackle a trans removal but patience and a more than a handful of tools is needed. When I went for round two (re-seal engine and chain guides) I just removed the front end and pulled the engine/trans out in one go.

I'd rate it a 6 or 7 on scale 10. Time is more the issue than complexity.

^ What he said, but after doing an e70 diesel trans swap... I bet it would be downright enjoyable to pull a trans on a gasser e53. Competitively speaking of course.

Oh and get the $100 trans jack from harbor freight. Pulled the trans without it, installed it with it. 10x easier with it.

Makes sense. How much did the full rebuild cost you? I was tempted to just change the e clutch bushing/bearing and possibly the clutches should I ever get the time/motivation to work on the trans I pulled out. There is an Aussie fella on YouTube (zero to 60) who did a 5hp in a 4.6is and made it look downright "simple.".It was his first time doing internal trans work.

TriX5 summed it up quite nicely. I would also add the higher you can safely jack up your X5 the better. The extra clearance helps when it comes to removing both the transmission and the exhaust. I found out that I could not remove the passenger side muffler unless I had the rear high enough to angle it out of the X5 without removing the bumper. In my case I did remove the bumper since I was also installing a factory hitch, however, after I put my bumper back on, I realized I couldn't get the passenger side muffler back on at the height I had it.

I gave everything a spray with PB blaster penetrant and let it set in and did not have any issues with removing any of my bolts. But having a torch handy is a good idea. Another tip I used was to take pictures of everything before and during your removal and install.

I haven't had to pull my transmission (knock on wood) but I will say that the exhaust is heavier and more unwieldy than you think!! I almost got a new part in my hair when I pulled mine off while on a lift.....[emoji28]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

When I first began I thought about just doing the e-clutch bushing as well, but when I got the "donor" tranny, I decided to do a complete rebuild since I did not have any history of it. I think I will just replace the bushing on my original just for shits and giggles and have a spare tranny on hand.

I just added the tranny parts alone (not including the tranny fluid) and it came out to $353 +tax/shipping. This also does not include any internal valve body parts which I rebuilt the valve body 9 months ago using new ZF solenoids and installed a zip kit. I also bought a harbor freight engine bar on sale for $49. I already had the transmission jack. Oh and I paid $30 for an ATSG Transmission rebuild manual.

I also watched that 0 to 60 video and yes he made it seem so simple. I was definitely hating on him for it! LOL. If I had that lift of his, I feel that it would have been a breeze to do mine. But the actual rebuild of the tranny was not hard at all, actually enjoyable for me and did not take me very long. Just keep everything clean an organized.

yeah this!!!:iagree: