yeah the temp sensor was recently replaced but no luck there. I feel tempted to just unplug the SAP and live with the CEL at this point...

Thanks Gents!


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IIRC ignition 1 and 2 control each dual temp sensor output. With the cluster unlocked and test 7? the KTMP should show the same reading with the key at ignition 1 and 2...

Would be good to add year and model to your signature. Depending on the year and model----

The secondary air pump should run when the engine is started and shut off when the engine goes from open to closed loop, when the cats are hot enough to control emissions. However, it does not impact coolant temperature.

The electric fan should run run a test when engine is cold started. It doesn't go to full RPMS and it doesn't last long. On some models the electric fan turns on when the air conditioning is engaged. I don't remember if engine has to be at operating temp before that happens.

Do you know if the thermostat is working properly? Could it be stuck open?

Is it possible the temp readings you are getting are celsius?

Even though the clutch fan is new have you tried to see how easily it turns when engine is cold?

I would also test the new temp sensor.

cheers for the detailed info gents! Can I measure the dual output with a multi meter or through my ODBII scanner?

The thermostat has not been checked. Considering the car gets up to temperature within 2/3 miles it seems like at least it closes, though maybe not enough causing potential overheating?

The clutch fan moves freely when cold, trust me I checked since the previous one exploded in the engine bay :D

temps stated are in celcius indeed (european here)

If you are worried about 108 vs 111 temp, that very well could be within the tolerance of the sensor and or Tstat.... in manufacturing there is this thing called tolerances, its not perfect every time. it is 3deg and that does seem a bit wide, but wont matter to anything now if it was 10deg or something...

agreed, but considering I have a fault code I was wondering it that could be the cause :)

If you have a fault code for the tstat, then it's time to replace it...

well I have a P0115... scanner says O2 sensor bank 2, but that's been replaced and switched out... apparently it can also be coolant temperature but I'm no expert at this stuff

Plugging away at projects on my '02 4.4i over the past week.
-A new (4.8) instrument cluster is in, along with a reprogramed DME (courtesy of Fixels). Seems to be working great, including the cool oil temp gauge and electronic red-line.
- New (to me) headlights are in and working fine (OEM bought from another forum member).
- Ebay seat/memory controller is in and the steering wheel and memory work for the first time in a decade. Wheel 'in/out" motor is quite ratchety when operated so I might pull the covers eventually and see if some grease will quiet it up.
- Rattle can painted a new trunk lid actuator last night, with first-timer results - a nice drip along the front edge. I'll sand it off and try again today. Color match seems OK though. Apparently the design changed in '03 or ''04 so I couldn't just buy the gaskets, actuator button and lights to put in the old "frame" unfortunately. New one doesn't come in Topaz Blue either.

I put the code reader 1.4 software on for the first time and read 15 years of codes. Nothing really cosmic and the only active ones were innocuous (license plate lights, etc.). So I reset everything to see what might come back. I didn't need to wait long!

My daughters were driving it last night and got a message saying the engine was in limp-home-mode (can't remember the exact phrasing) along with the ABS and traction control lights. She ran like a top for them however, which seems strange. Not to mention the car ran great earlier in the afternoon on the highway and city streets to talk to a guy about painting the hood and roof. I wonder if I could have messed it up by reading and clearing codes?

At any rate, BMW Code Reader 1.4 went back on and the scan showed:
75 [117] Signal, throttle potentiometer
77 [119] Signal, throttle potentiometer 2

76 [118] Status DME Internal error
5A [090] Temporary Signal Deactivation

Its worth noting that the battery was off the car for a week while the cluster and DME were being worked on. When I first hooked it back up I had ABS and traction control lights until I drove it out of the driveway, at which point they cleared.

I read somewhere that the gas pedal must be pumped four times to fully reset potentiometer errors, while you reset with the scanner. I'll try that today if they come back.

I wonder how much of these, and other codes have been banging around the car's systems for the past decade that the cluster has been burnt.