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Quote:

Originally Posted by workingonit (Post 1232920)

When I replaced my clutch fan with a high volume electric fan see this thread: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ctric-fan.html...I joined the thread at post #40, I found that I couldn't insert the temperature probe into the fins on my Nissen radiator (I tried two different probes). I didn't want to create a leak, so I did like andrewwyne suggested, and attached the adjustable thermostatic switch's probe to the radiator inlet, then I ran the sensor tubing on top of the radiator, and secured the adjustable switch on the other side (right side) in a waterproof plastic box (after I adjusted it to come on at 183F, so it would be working before the coolant got to 194F, when the thermostat opens).

I also had a problem locating a "switched power" circuit, so I decided to remove the positive and negative wires from the flashlight charger inside the glovebox, and used them as the switched power source.

I ran more wires from there, then behind the console to the driver's side, where I put a manual override switch (in case the thermostatic switch failed) and a Power Magic Pro BlackVue Vehicle Battery Discharge Prevention Switch (so I could let the fan run after the key was off, regulated as to a set voltage drop and/or time limit). I set it to switch off at 12 volts or 10 minutes (IIRC). From there, the wiring continues thru the block-off grommet above the dead pedal, and connects to the fan wiring relay. Of course, the relay's power and ground are the jumper posts underhood!

What fan did you get? Are you sure it has a high enough CFM rating for the engine?
Attachment 83529

Might I suggest that you reattach the factory fan shroud, as it really helps the fan pull air thru the radiator. I think that a shroud needs to cover about 70% of the exposed surface of the radiator. Naturally, since I had trouble pushing temperature probes into the radiator fins, the plastic rods that were supposed to mount the fan to the radiator posed the same problem. So, I used aluminum flat stock and zip ties to mount the fan to the original shroud, and put it back in place. Redneck engineering, but it works.

Howdy

Fan is 2400cfm
Shroud missing when I purchased the X5
Driving on steep hills in 40C+ weather with thermo-fan without the shroud was fine. With the electric fan snug against radiator there should be enough air moving.
I do have plans to clean up and splash proof the bits & bobs.

When my viscus clutch failed I just replaced it. Are you missing the aux fan? (I can't imagine that: no AC).

Not really sure what the functional difference but with the clutch fan you get moderate cooling when not moving before the temp gets even to the point of the tstat opening so I guess when tstat opens it's already chilled the radiator and will cool the engine quickly.

I now have the n55 motor and it's crazy how fast the engine temp drops under load. Im taking about temp going from 109 to 100 in 1/3 of a mile full throttle up a hill. I never saw this kind of response with the m54 or m62tu motors.

I also rarely recall the aux fan kicking on unless I had my clutch fan still removed from winter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serb404 (Post 1232907)

perfect, thanks Nick!

Buy a hood clamp while you're at it:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/lif...clamp-cta-5360

Transferred a portable XM receiver into the X5 for a short trip. Where can I plug it for ignition 12V? Is the 12V port under the glove box ignition/sleep controlled? Should I convert the glove box lighter port to 12V plug in? The unit can be turned off when not in use. The power plug LED light would still use a little power.

Cigarette plug in the passenger foot well is where I used for my dash camera (until security took it[emoji28])but it sleeps when the X does.

Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk

Quote:

Originally Posted by X5chemist (Post 1232952)

I think the cigarette lighters are always powered.

Got to the parking lot last night after a four day trip to find a dead battery on the X. Interior lights, etc. worked fine, but just click, click, click and eventually a "failsafe mode" message when I tried to start it.

Security guard stopped to give me a jump, but no luck (not sure why other than perhaps the thing was just too dead?). I'm 99.9% sure it is the battery since it was reading 10.8v on the hidden menu. Ordered a new one to pick up at autozone (Duralast H8 900 CCA) and looking forward to a nice morning with the X. If she's feeling vindictive the battery will be down so much when I return to her that I'll need to crawl into the back and pop the trunk via the emergency latch.

My records say that the last battery I put in was 2012, but I seem to recall doing one after that, but perhaps that was another car. 2012 to 2023 would be a good run in my opinion. I recall that I got it at PepBoys, which has been long closed near us.

I've been putting off getting a battery tender and a jump pack. Any recommendations? My question is is that since the jumpstart didn't work last night, will a jump pack? Assuming I get her home with no added drama, I do plan on undertaking a thorough search for phantom electrical draw(s) this weekend based on some excellent write-ups on XOutpost.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henn28 (Post 1232970)

I've had bad experiences with certain jumper cables in the past, so it could be as simple as that. I tried whatever I could to make them in full contact with each battery terminal and could never get it started. Went to buy new jumper cables and voila. Started immediately.

As far as jumper packs go, I have this cheaper one that I bought at O'Reilly the day I got my X5 (since the @$$ hat previous owner gave it to me with a dead battery). It's shockingly good, though... I've never completely drained the battery before and I've used it a LOT, and it holds a charge on the internal battery for ages. Very pleasantly surprised for the price.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...+battery&pos=0

Can be a combination of things regarding the jumper not working.

In general and especially with a jump pack or small gauge cables, the truck is patience. It's not getting the full current from the cables but from the battery in the trunk.

You hook up the cables, rev the engine on the host car enough to keep current supply high and charge the battery for ≈5 minutes before attempting to start.

This way you can get 5-600A from the was dead battery vs. 1-200a from the host car. (or jump pack).

I recommend clearing codes that have likely tripped due to the low voltage before attempting to start.

Thanks gents. I'll check out the Oreilly lead since I've got one pretty close to me. This one is Popular Mechanics top choice but is a little more expensive. I does have 12v and USB ports too, plus a flashlight, which is nice: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...U33PEM3VY&th=1 . My cables are decades old, and I'm sure I spent next to nothing on them when I bought them too, so maybe they are not up to the task, or failing. I didn't realize that the cables and/or jump pack didn't supply all the juice the car needs to start.

I need to re-read how to reset the throttle adaptations after the battery is disconnected. I recall that it is some dance with the key/ignition, but the car does not need to be running.