Not lucky. This particular injector had a piece of the plastic broken off at the top. The part where the clip that holds it into the fuel rail goes. The injector was loose because of it. I'm guessing it was effecting the fuel pressure in the injector so it wasn't flowing enough fuel.

Had the ABS/BRAKE light come on with engine going into limp mode. The Ancel I have read "D3 Idle-speed control valve, mechanical fault" + "5A Brief power interruption" + "76 DME/DDE does not fulfill torque request"

These are new-to-me codes. She ran great after I cleared those. Unsure what those have to do with the ABS light going on.

I had the same codes minus the DME from a low fuel at high speed that kept the engine turning (5sec or less) before it got enough fuel to run again. (bad sending unit) It did stop cruise control from working until I got the codes cleared.

So on the off chance you were at highway speed when it happened, could you have had a quick (quicker than mine) fuel starvation "blip"?

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What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

ABS light will come on from loss of voltage which of course happens when the engine stops turning.

Glitchy signal from the CKP can result in your symptoms.

CPS will cause similar when putting around a parking lot.

If the car kills while pulling into s parking spot it's almost always the CPS.

More details about when it happened, please.

Monitor your v Bat real-time with hidden menu and make sure you aren't getting drop outs. It should never get below 13 when running.

–awr–

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Follow up
 

Took the morning yesterday and swapped in the left eBay bearing carrier/knuckle. No small job, having done both sides now, but I couldn’t get the tension strut ball joints out of my knuckles due to stripped torx screws. Interestingly the eBay knuckles both had old ball joints in them that were held in with torx bolts and came right out. The heads of the screws in my old ball joints stripped out of mine when I put even moderate force on them. I replaced these fasteners with 10.9 grade corrosion resistant bolts when building up the new knuckles.

The left side took about 3.5 to 4 hours to get the job done. My squeaking/groaning noise has only gotten worse in the past week, so while I was in there I checked the torque on everything, and all suspension seemed torqued properly. However, I did find a mangled left lower control arm boot, at the knuckle. That ball joint looked and felt nasty. This sucks because I replaced these only a few months ago, so either I screwed it up on the install, or it simply tore on its own. The car is up on jacks or the lift often and I do see the that specific joint is very compressed and at an extreme angle when the suspension is fully extended. Maybe the boot got squashed and cut.

At any rate, I put a ton of grease in that ball joint just to troubleshoot the noise I’m hearing. I’ll need to get new arms in obviously. I also had to pull the tension strut so I could knock it off the old ball joint with an big hammer so I pulled the metal center piece out of the poly bushing and put a ton of grease on it. Recall I replaced my Turner monoballs with poly recently and I’ve since read polyurethane bushings can squeak. I ran out of time to do the same to the right side, but somewhere between all these variables, the noise I’m hearing was much, much better on the drive home from the garage. I’m still getting it a bit from (I think) the front right, which makes me think the poly bushings are the problem. I used the grease that came with the bushes when I installed them, so who knows. No way though do I want to be pulling my tension strut ends at the subframe every few months to grease them.

On the plus side, the car needs a front end alignment, but it’s pretty close somehow after doing all the work, so I’ll ignore that for a bit. I’m happy that I’ve got new tension strut ball joints and new wheel bearings on both sides now. I obviously need new lower arms, and would go with poly because I like the ride with poly tension strut bushings, but more squeaking worries me, if that is what is causing it.

Finally, by swapping front wheels to rear (same side) in two stages, I tracked my 60 mph wobble to the wheel that was on the front right. Seems that either Goodyear screwed up my recent balance job on this wheel, or somehow it can’t be brought into balance due to damage or tire issues. I’ll take my spare off and get it balanced to swap with the offending wheel and see how that goes.

Well, I've done two things to/for my old X5s lately. (1) Drove the heck out of my '05 on a road trip from Texas to Charlotte, NC and back. 2600+ miles. The old gal did great. (2) Noticed that the windshield washers were spraying very weakly on the '02 and I cracked into that this afternoon. I was expecting the pumps to be failing after 23 years, but it turned out that the strainers below the pumps were just gunked up. Cleaned them up, sprayed out the reservoir and we're back in business.

The incredibly rare BMW fix that doesn't cost anything … which surely means something super expensive is lurking around the corner. ;-)

Chris
Lockhart, TX
2005 X5 30. Schwarz Black
2002 X5 3.0 Titansilber

It happened in city driving, 25-35mph.

Watch voltage while driving with hidden menu.

If that is stable prime suspect is CKP.


–awr–

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Hood latch arrived... installed

Expansion tank.... replaced

Console sliding cover... replaced

Driver & Passenger front DHC... replaced

Valve stems... replaced new metal ones with pressure indicators

2 new keys, one flip style and one regular... cut and programmed


Driving to the house.... Drivers rear tire shredded on inner sidewall after clipping a raised expansion joint.... Toyo will deliver new tire on Sunday 1700 SAR.[emoji849]


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2600+ miles :wow:
Is that the longest reported drive at one time? :dunno:

MPG? Mine has read a 525+ mile range once. I wonder if it's doable? In Texas, that's 6 hours plus with reasonable speeds.