https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e594881294.jpg


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new Lemforder rear sway bar end links and fixed the AUX wire's resistor issue by adding my own 300k ohm resistor between the R+ and L+ wires, just before it connects to back of cd changer, to fix AUX missing issue. got the Hamann HM2 wheels and Nokian tires re-balanced to remove vibrations and now its smooth driving.

OK, got the door card off without breaking anything (other than six of the glued-on mount points which I will try to hot-glue* back on tomorrow). Got the window back up and secured with a strong suction cup for now.

Found a busted carrier clip and the black piece. "Oh I have new ones!" Yeah, for the FRONT doors. Why would they use different clips for the back doors? So I gotta get those on order. edit: found this repair kit on ebay, ordered that. https://www.ebay.com/itm/375852360588

The pics are of the vertical sunshade mount points. Getting that top ciip to let go is a real beeeyotch hence all the scratches.

The third is the difference between the front door clip (top) and the busted rear door clip. I can't find the part number for that, realoem doesn't show it.

The fourth is this air hose that slips onto a fitting on the back of the alternator. I have no idea what it does, but I got it popped back on. Doubt it's related to my IAC valve issue — I have a cheap amazon part coming tomorrow. I think Rock Auto is closing out genuine Bosch parts for $60 "FAMOUS BRAND ABC3727" but I'll try the cheap one first.

*someone recommended black JB Weld which I used on one of the front door cards, but it's not that secure. I tried using a heat gun on the old glue residue left on the card which made it nice n sticky, but there isn't enough adhesive left to do much.

I use gorilla tape on the vertical edges to hold a window while waiting for parts

The clips aren't a separate part you can only get third party

The hose on the alternator is air duct for cooling similar to the ducts that go from the grill to the front wheel brakes



You can buy butyl tape to replace worn out from re-use door card seals.


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This morning central lock button working, but the passenger mirror was dipping on reverse EVEN THOUGH the mirror switch was on the passenger side to keep it from dipping and after going to driver's side and back to passenger side it was back to non-dipping mode...[emoji2957]

So I have something that's intermittent... [emoji533] me!![emoji849]

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Bought a cheap hot glue gun and glue sticks, glued those black mounting pieces back on the door card, seems to hold really well. Guess we'll find out... looks like someone also used some kind of hard black adhesive to hold the sun shade unit to the door card but I have no idea what it is. Of course the vapor barrier went missing years ago...

Is it possible for a dirty or bad IAC valve to cause a fuel trim rich code? Throttle/brake plausibility code? I have a new Chinesium one but maybe the old one just needs cleaning. Whatever, it will all have to wait for the window regulator parts to arrive and I'm on a two-week work trip starting this weekend. Getting the IAC out doesn't look too terrible.

Oh and I noticed what I'm sure is windshield washer fluid dripping from both sides just past the front wheel wells. I haven't used the washers much but I filled the tank two months ago and it's already almost empty. The pishers do spray the glass but there's a big leak somewhere. The headlight washers work too but every time I've ever used them there's a lot of fluid leaking from behind the front bumper. The rear window washer works with no obvious leaks.

Get a small inspection mirror and check the two windscreen pumps (on the back of the tank): -

https://i.ibb.co/39pZJT6v/b0d49a89-8...9539c580c6.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/gZf8CHx1/e9ce1d9e-e...185d7a0c0e.jpg

Been battling leaking and non-working washers for most of the last few months - of course, over the winter months when I need them. Now have new grommets, pumps and a rear one-way valve and all seems well again - $150 later!! :rolleyes:

Temporarily used double sided tape on the left kidney grill. I noticed it was not seating correctly. I tugged on it and it pulled out of place. All the lock tabs are now broken. I broke a few when I had to remove it to open the hood. Now all of them are broken. I'll keep an eye open to replace the left one or both. For now, the double side tape holds it in place correctly.

I feel like the kidney grills are needlessly complicated to get in and out, especially. Which just invites more broken plastic than usual on these types of part removal jobs.

I had a new windshield put in today by safelite. Installer did a great job and I was happy that we didn’t find any rust lurking under the seals or old sealant. Just a lot of dirt and grime that needs to be cleaned. Some of the plastic and rubber trim, seal and cover pieces, especially the cowl cover piece, are in pretty bad shape. It’s like a big jigsaw puzzle of plastic pieces up at the cowl.

Clear OSI Quad for the win but you can't pop them out for hood latch rescue after that


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