Lucky, mine was leaking right from the corner of the seam and it was constant slow leak so i didnt wanna risk it,

my price here in the lower mainland bc is around 60

hey how's the cv boot? I need to do it on passenger side. and my indy quoted 250 if axel comes off. would i be able to do it on my own without air tools?

Alex do you need to do just outer boot or inner and outer (usually outer only shows cracks)

Just did my outer boots and left axle attached to inboard driveshaft, but you have to press it out of the hub first and disconnect the strut 2 bolts.

Its definitely DIY-able without air tools, I used none, just make sure you have 36mm 12pt for axle nut, 22mm for strut bolts, $8.99 CV boot pliers from advance auto parts (for ear type clamps, essential part!), a 2 foot breaker bar + the handle from your jack as a cheater bar (for undoing axle nut), and a 3-4 lb mini sledge, since you will have to literally whack the outer joint off the cv axle to replace the boot.

Look up the thread "CV boot replaced in 30 minutes" I followed that process. Get a GKN Loebro boot kit from Pelican for $13 and it includes a new axle nut, I disassembled my joint when it was off as well, cleaned out all old grease and replaced with all new grease.

Changed the Final Stage Resistor. Fan was a little erratic over the winter and I ordered the replacement FSR months ago. We had a heat wave this past weekend and the fan speed wouldn't change much at all in auto or manual mode. Hating being hot trumped my laziness so finally did it! Took about an hour and a half and everything works great now.

Thanks to Xoutpost for the DIY.

New Bosch rear wiper blade & replaced the 20mm spacers with 30mm spacers last night. She's in need of a bath.

Pretty pissed my vanity plate submission was already taken so I have to figure out what I want to get instead now.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65...g?t=1370442702

THANKS!

CV Boot pliers look like this:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs..._alt1_larg.jpg

Oh yeah and you'll need a 22mm or 7/8" wrench/socket to hold the bolt on the strut while you turn the nut as well.

I pushed the axle in and out of the hub with a hube puller/flange which had a threaded rod that pushed the center stub of the axle, came in a free rental set I got from Pep Boys. That seems to be people's biggest problem is pushing the axle out of the hub.

Btw that's what I meant GKN kit, I got the same kit excellent OEM quality for half the price of dealer. That is our OE equipment, just not in a BMW box.

Torque for strut nuts 185 ft lbs
Torque for axle nut 330 ft lbs

Oh yeah you might have to disconnect the ABS sensor to get to the strut bolts, 5mm hex I believe, and 16mm bolts that hold the caliper on (I took mine off since I was doing my wheel bearings not sure if you have enough room to leave caliper on rotor)

If you need anything shoot me a pm i'm fairly familiar with the process now :)

Wow thanks! will be attempting this on the week end when it stops raining.

Got it back from the tire & alignment shop, and it drives SO NICE! The wife is gonna love it. She's spoiled, and she knows it. :cool:

In the past two weeks: repaired cluster pixels, replaced NAV and head units so that stereo works, replaced brake sensors, replaced trans pan gasket and filter, replaced secondary air pump lines, repaired melted brake housing, replaced fog light (twice), and given this thing several solid detailing sessions.

On tap: turn brake rotors and treat for squeaking, possibly replace VCG, replace plugs, clean ICV, TB and MAF, and replace breather valve to clear p0443. Oh, and secure coding to eliminate 'self leveling inactive' since air suspension has been removed.