Xoutpost.com - What did you do to / for your E53 today??

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- - What did you do to / for your E53 today?? (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/78921-what-did-you-do-your-e53-today.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by 270_BMW (Post 1143549)

present putting it back together and the wheel it tiled about 25 degrees to the left. It was annoying at first, but now it's a comfort -- like the necker nobs from back when, have it at just the right angle to get hold and turn. Lol.

Awesome! I've done similar goofs and just went with it. Example: repaired a keyboard and put a couple key caps in the wrong place. Decided to leave them for the humor.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 270_BMW (Post 1143560)

I understand 200% -- OCD about everything else.

Wife can't stand it. I couldn't at first but honestly haven't had the time to get back in there.

That alignment you got last week, would you say well over due?

Yeah I did the ball joints and bushings about 6 months ago. The steering wheel was only off about 5 degrees so it was tolerable.

Respectfully, this thread is intended to simply state what you have already done to your X5. It is not intended to be a discussion, conversational or troubleshooting thread. It's easy to private message members with comments or questions rather than potentially annoy members with off topic posts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overboost (Post 1143467)

My problem was I didn't get the top of the carrier under the lip on the rear door skin. Try leaning the carrier at 45 degrees towards the door as you push it up into place from the inside.

Well after reviewing several threads here and watching youtube. I tackled the rear door once more. It started off as an OH #$%^ because the door would not open from outside or inside. HA I said. I already studied the YOUTUBE video where someone had the same problem and was able to remove the door card with out damaging it from the inside. I carefulle got the door card off , no damage. was able to push the mechanism very hard to get the door to unlatch. Now for the fun part. I removed the rubber from the new unit and placed the old units rubber on. Then I removed the cable portion of the new assembly and put the old cable portion on the new unit. I carefully measured the old and new cable. the new units cable was 3 / 16 shorter than the old cable. I also noticed a significant difference in how the rubber seated on the new unit which was different that the old unit. After some component swaps to the new unit, Making sure I got the unit under the lip of the door. It fit like a glove with no hesitation of installation or binding. Due to the fact that I had to remove the back seat portion to get the door card off, I found about $3.50 in coins, lots of gummy bears and a pile of trash. I got that all cleaned up and for now the doors are lubed, functioning and happy. Next I need to find the plastic covering which layed on the floor. AFter many years it just disintegrated. I want to thank all who help out in these forums. As an avid euro exotic collector, sites like this are worth every penny. I hope I can help in the future as you all do for everyone. Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eurocarnuts (Post 1143603)

I want to thank all who help out in these forums. As an avid euro exotic collector, sites like this are worth every penny. I hope I can help in the future as you all do for everyone. Thanks

:thumbup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1143205)

Changed tension strut bushings on wife's x over the weekend what a chore. Impossibly rusted in parts.

A couple tips for somebody that has to do the same:

1) just buy complete arms with bushings.

2) see photos how I was able to use impact tool to remove the bolts

3) not terribly difficult to lower the truck to tighten the bolt. Better than try to guess how far to lift the rotor and hope you don't lift the truck off the jack stands

4) the ball joint will spin when you try to reattach the wheel side, use a hex wrench to hold the ball from spinning when you tighten that bolt. See 3rd pic.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8ceaea58cb.jpg

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I removed the few screws that held the inside of the fender so I could access the big bolt with a couple wobble bits.

The right side had an air duct that I loosened as well the left side didn't.

Hi, i replaced my tension strut arm and my lower arm about about 2 weeks ago (2006 x5 E53 3.0I) you mentioned lowering the car to tighten bolts, i tighten the bolts while it was still on the jack stand, will this cause a problem?? should i redo to bolts while the car is on the Ground?
thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bklyndiaz (Post 1143621)

When bolting down the bushings if you do it in the air, then put it on the ground the bushing gets twisted, not a lot but the procedure is to do it loaded so the arm is as close to a normal position as possible.

I normally put a jack under the outer most point I can get it on and lift the car to the point of just being off the jack stand then tighten the bolt down.

Very important to tighten on the ground. You can get to the bolts with the wheels on I just put the car on the ground turn the wheel a bit each way then tighten the bolts. You will see a big "spring" when the torsion is released If you tightened on the ground. I snugged mine a little too tight during assembly and saw quite a twist when I lifted the axle side up onto the ball joint (before I loosened up the main bolt to release the tension)

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Replaced fuel pump on my 2006 X5 4.8is. Failed at a stop light last week. Pretty straightforward job requiring a 10mm socket (4 nuts) and a hammer and large screw driver to spin ring holding pump in place.

Took me a few minutes to figure out how to get new unit to sit properly with new gasket installed. It wouldn't press in all the way. Fix was to press gasket in place with pump slightly out - once gasket installed pump unit pressed right in.

On a happy note fixed the rear seat heater too. Turns out the harness was unplugged for some reason. Plugged it in and voila - warm seats. Easiest fix ever!

Headlight refinishing. Driver's is still slightly "blurry" for lack of a better word, but much better than before. It was semi dark by the time we finished, so I'll grab some after shots tomorrow.