I wish that was the reason mine wasn't working. :(


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Gasket goes onto tank not the pump. If you put on the pump and try to install it's very difficult if not impossible.

I wet the gasket with a bit of gas just before pressing in makes it very simple

Ordered a set of DEPO headlights and LED CREE bulbs. About time..

Replaced all, bushings, CV axles, and upper/lower control arms. STILL getting a damn wobble in my steering wheel at 50+/while braking.

My brakes look like they were recently replaced so I will start with front rotors next.. perhaps there is a small warp. My wheel isn't flaming after the interstate or would think it was a caliper.

I did the same thing chasing my wobble braking from speed. Did you replace the ball joint that your lower control arm mounts to?

https://youtu.be/SIBppxXXNKc

That's the only one I have no replaced... i hear it is a PAIN to get off. True or untrue?

It is a real PITA, I just attempted to replace the ball joints last weekend and miserably failed. On top of that I stripped one of the two bolts attached to the driver side BJ.
I had watched that video and it is way oversimplified IMO because it did not show how much hammering was needed. Now I’m probably the worst DIYer out there too, but will try again sometimes this week.
Overboost did you successfully removed those BJs?

I did not replace them myself but I have heard it can be a lot of work. The arms alone corrected 95% of my wobble but 5% remains so I have them on my list. I have read that any wobble at speed is directly realated to these ball joints. I think it depends on the suspension components and how "weathered" they are. I know some of the northern guys have a real issue with rust on both the bolts and the joint removal.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I just tried replaced the bushings In the thrust arm and other than the impossibility of pushing in the new bushing sleeve pulling the arm off the ball joint taper was by far the most difficult part of the job.

75 minutes of BFH hammering I got the first one off.

Pickle fork is probably the proper method but for the second one I sprayed some release spray on the joint, and used a long crowbar and the BFH to pry from the top. About 8-10 solid swings with a 3# hammer and it popped off.

The video shows pre-tension with a prybar where I pounded then hit the side of the thrust arm. I would maybe try that in the future but the downward force has to be a lot.

Impact ONLY to remove tight bolts or expect to round them off. Cut a square head with Dremel or right angle and use a spline socket with impact to remove.

In our experience the ball joint on the other arm (lower/back?) Control arm always the cause of higher speed wobble like when gentle brake from 50mph.

Thanks for the tip andrewwynn

2 Questions..
When you say code your LCM, are you just turning the error on the dash off?

Also, I have WinKFP, what exactly do i need to do to do a soft upgrade?
What differences are you expecting?