Yeah my Pass seat shakes sometimes. I guess mine are f*cked also.

if I am above 40 mph and take a decent right handed turn the noise goes away (weight gets loaded on the left side so when the right bearing on the front is unloaded it quiets down), so that's a tell tale sign its front right.


how do you know yours is in the rear?

UPDATE:

All 3 lights on, yellow, at the same time again this morning on the highway, just cruising at normal highway speed. I am due to get scanned again with GT1 but gosh I'm really just thinking about getting ABS Module repaired since the intermittent nature of this being on one day, and off the next has me pointed to module problem.

If it was bad wheel sensor wouldn't the lights come on and stay on?

I'm having the same problem brother! I replaced the module earlier this month and have the same issue. All theerror codes reference "voltage supply" so, I'm thinking its my alternator going bad after one year. I'm going to check the voltage at the battery at lunch to confirm. Ugh... this sucks!

Ahhh Big J that sucks! Did you run your OBC test 9 I think which tests voltage? I was thinking alternator too but I don't really have any other problems with the car electrical wise?

No, I haven't tried to unlock it yet...I'll get them from Slick's sig and see what I can find.

I need to unlock mine and check my voltage too but I need to get the cluster repaired as I'm missing a few pixels, gonna monitor voltage on the way home from work today and see how it does, display is still readable but missing a few lines.

Lol! I hear ya....I installed a Dynavin last Fall and removed the DSP amp, radio, MID and CDC. At the same time I lost IBus communication to my PDC, LCM, cruise control, etc and others but, they function the PDC and LCM function in basic manual mode.
I'm having to trace the iBus wiring (white w/ grey stripe and yellow dots) from the rear to the new head unit, looking for shorts, broken or crimped wires that is preventing communication with the associated modules.
In the back, I've spliced the iBus wires from the old DSP connections and looped them back onto the iBus wire to the front in hopes to eliminate that area from having any bad connections.

Very tiring!

If you can't find Slick's instructions...you can use the ones I've posted before below: (e38/e39/e53 high instrument clusters are all designed the same and work the same way)

OBC TEST 9 will give the battery's voltage (when ignition is in position 1 or 2)...and will give the alternator/charging system voltage when the engine is running. Since all accessories are running when ignition is in position 2 (versus 1)...you should see the battery's voltage drop faster if you're monitoring battery voltage only.


If for some reason you have the low instrument cluster (uses the GRAPHIC display for check control and only has ONE button (left side of cluster)...the UNLOCK procedure and display of TESTs is slightly different...click this link and scroll down and click on the LOW CLUSTER thumbnails : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/313409...series/page-6/

Cool! Thank you, sir!