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Never a good idea to remove a battery lead with the engine running, the battery acts as a cushion (for lack of a better term) for the electrical system.
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If you roast a few computers and/or modules, repair costs can exceed book of the vehicle!
Instant "total loss" with the removal of one connection! |
On the alternator issue: is there a 'standard' volts it should be showing at idle? I'm thinking 14.5v or so, but let me know, and whether it differs from the 120a vis 140a alternators. I continue to get the trifecta kicking up at random on the road, no click at shutdown [the gear symptom], and it disappears on restart.
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Voltage should read between 13.8 & 14.5 @ 2500 RPM. Can drop to 13.3 at idle and still be acceptable.
These are "no load" #s (all electrical items off, headlights, fans, seat heaters......). |
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I have an 8/12 Duralast gold in my 4.6is that I bought with the car but I think it's slowly on it's way out. Just to confirm, is this what you bought? Seems like a good deal with the $20 off and then $25 off when ordering online. http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/672418/00015 |
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It was 35% off and & $20 Bosch rebate. I think the $20 Bosch rebate has expired, I bought mine on the deadline "purchase by" day. |
Thanks, TiAgX5, for the volts target. I'll check it out tomorrow morning. The premium Bosch #49, 48 month battery I see at Pep Boys has different cca, etc. numbers shown and a price closer to $179 ....... My alt and battery are 30k miles/18 months old, garaged in mild GA weather, so shouldn't be going, but who knows?
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