Do that. Those wires are not needed, just the two wires with the amp connection to the ballast.

All I had was urethane based sealants....so I plugged the gasket. Going to let it dry for a good week before I swap these puppies in. It cures slowly..

What did you do with the factory plug on the housing? Did you seal that up as well?

Nope. Just cut the hole for the grommet that sits on the cap

Came here to post this, results were just from using some small picks from harbor freight.

The beam is perfectly flat and level, I just couldn't hold the projector and camera at the same time.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/07/yjebe3ep.jpg


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Make sure you are aligning your H3 bulbs using the bottom "horizontal" notch on the projector bulb mount, NOT the top "half circle" notch.

You'll know what I mean when looking at them. I was aligning with the top notch at first and my output looked like complete garbage!

Gonna work on the other one later on and hopefully get them installed in a couple days.

Here is a pic I tried to take of what notch on the projector to align the bulb with

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/07/humuqanu.jpg

That's the bottom notch

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/07/aquvyvy2.jpg

This is how it looks at the top, it looks like something's off but trust me its right as long as the bottom notch is in place!

Hope that helps Clockwork!

Rb, when I get back from Austria i will install my H3c bulbs and adjust them from the bottom rectangular tab and not the semi circle tab.
I too have a pick set so i will have to try playing. Did u only play with the cut off shield or the shields mounting points too like X5snd did?
I assume if u were putting the picks in through the rear of housing (where bulb goes) you must have removed that h3c bulb a bunch of times to play with the shield?

By the way, appreciate the update. Looking forward to closing this chapter!

update for Clockwork and others:

Well the second one didn't go as easy as the first one did, after a few picking sessions, I had it close to the cutoff of the first one, but not exact, and my OCD was driving me crazy so I kept on picking, pushing etc.


Basically now the projector is loose inside the housing, the beam looks like shit, and I'm going to chalk it up to too much playing around and get another housing from ebay for $61.


The picking of the shield should be done in extremely small increments! I should have left it be when it was 90% to what I got on the final result of the first one, but I learned my lesson. There's only so much pushing and pulling that the projector will take when its still together in the housing, before you start loosening things and abusing the integrity of the fog light itself.


I only played with the cut off shield itself, pulling it back slightly on all directions with a pick (and if the beam was "smiling" at the cutoff I would press the outer corners downwards a bit). You're right I just removed and reinstalled the bulb a bunch of times, probably had to do it 10 times on the housing I messed up before I finally gave up.

The first one went pretty easy, I only had to make about 5 adjustments before I got the result you see above. Basically once you start seeing the blue and increased sharpness at the cutoff, DON'T play with it too much more, you're risking losing the focal point or disfiguring the shield.


Enjoy Austria Clockwork!

FOGS ARE IN!



But I'm still working out some slight issues, I may need to hook up an actual relay harness instead of the canbus modules from TRS, since I have gotten 1 error on the dash since installing, and I REALLY need to adjust the alignment point on the car on the passenger side, as its completely cockeyed when I hooked it up (by comparison, the drivers side is perfect).

I also say this because now that I have dug into the archives, I see a lot of the guys with HID's in the fogs are used to having to press the fog switch twice before firing, and I noticed it once yesterday and once today so far, that upon the first time I hit the switch, the fog lights fail to light!

I've seen battery relay harnesses for about 6 bucks that I could use in line with the can-bus modules, but if I still get occasional errors I will scrap the modules completely, as you can buy a relay harness with included resistors for about 10 bucks.


Also keeping an eye out for any accumulated moisture, which I may have to deal with as X5SND did (I had some residual "fog" on the bottom of the lens last night after driving, although I silicone around the grommet on the cap, like S said earlier, moisture might be from not enough air flow to move the moisture out), will keep Clockwork and such updated, but project is starting to tire me out. I don't need perfection, but need both beams to be flat, the fog lights to turn on on the FIRST time I hit the button on the headlight switch, and no errors on my dash.


I did contact Lightwerkz today and he said if I sent the lights in or brought them to the shop he could adjust the beam pattern/cutoff for me, and it wouldn't be much at all to do. I'm just waiting to see if I can correct the mounting of the passenger fog first, and to be sure I'm without moisture, so I can decide if I need to come see him or not.


Hell of a lot of light on the road though from these 35w 4300k H3 bulbs...

RB, thanks for the update again. I'm sadly back in Canada again after an amazing trip through some gorgeous countries in Europe. I'm in he middle of moving and getting my 3 car garage built now so my car's are homeless for another month or so, BUT after that I plan on tackling the fog lights again.
my drivers side fog is "cock eyed" too so thats what drives me nuts most of all honestly. I'll play with cut off shield with picks through the bulb entrance untill I loose my patience and see what happens. I have the H3C sitting in my boxes of things to be moved, so all I can say is.... SOON (as I lick my lips and roll my hands in one another).