Yes I came up with a pigtail so I didn't snip my factory wiring, you will need this, to make an H11 male to BMW female 2 pin connection:

2X H8 H9 H10 H11 880 Male Connectors Connector HID Plug Free Shipping from USA | eBay

2 of these from the dealer (connection)

Home Page > Search > 61 13 8 373 332 > ES#165762 Socket Housing - Priced Each - 61138373332

4 of these from the dealer (wire lead with pre-crimped pin, 2 go in each connector and you put the male H11 on the other end):

Home Page > Search > 61 13 0 007 256 > ES#2550154 Bushing Contact With Wire Lead - Pack Of 10 - 61130007256

I have a set of the Depo projector fog lights (ebay for $110) and I'm almost positive it is not a quality issue, members have been retrofitting the Depo projector fogs for years now and not many complain about the quality. I was actually very impressed with the quality and was hard pressed to tell the difference from the OE BMW reflector fog light I took out.

The issue is the bulb type here, an H3 is an extremely small bulb with not the greatest focal length and intensity, I suspect the reason why BMW switched to a reflector fog light housing (besides the air duct on the 4.8is) with an H11 bulb is because the H11 bulb simply is a more intense bulb which will throw more light out.

I had the H11 reflector fog light with Hoen yellow endurance bulbs, with great light output. I recently put in the projector fog lights with a Hoen Xenonmatch bulb, and noticed definite dimmer output compared to the reflector/H11. Granted, they were both coated bulbs but arguably the yellow coated bulb is a lighter coating which will still allow more light out, whereas the H3 bulb I recently installed was blue coated to mimic xenons.


I'm happy thus far as I wanted the xenon look and the sharper look of the fog lights when they were off, it was a feature that was worth sacrificing some light output on the road for (my reflector fogs were pitted to hell, and don't we have xenons for a reason?)

However, I disagree in the fact that an OE housing vs. the Depo housing is vastly different, its simply the difference in the bulb used. When I owned my 2008 GLI, I went from 9006 bulb in a REFLECTOR fog light housing to an H11 bulb in a PROJECTOR housing, and I'll be honest the light output was the same, just sharper cutoff on the projector. Look at an H3 bulb, its tiny! No way the output is the same as an H11, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I've read you could bend the cutoff shield to sharpen the output more if you have the know how, its not something I am going to mess with though.

To get the most output of the H3 bulb, you either need a high performance halogen bulb (something like an Osram Nightbreaker), or you need to retrofit HID.

For 38 bucks shipped, I'd try out the best halogen bulbs in the housing that I could find. OSRAM Night Breaker Plus H3 (Twin Pack) | PowerBulbs

If I end up retrofitting bi-xenon projectors into my headlights, I will leave the halogen bulb, but if I just do clear lenses on my stock projectors, I will retrofit H3 HID's into the housing down the line.

And if there is an HID/xenon fitted into the foglights, a programming change must be done to allow the foglights to remain on when the highbeams are engaged on US spec'd cars (probably North America specs) to avoid flashing/flickering of the xenon ballasts, which considerably shortens the life of the HIDs - On the US cars the foglights must turn off when a highbeam is engaged, so if you were to flash highbeams to somebody to pass, the foglights will counterflash...

Absolutely correct Terminator, I think the line is something about NSW_NICHT_GLEINZ or something to that effect, if you have HID fog lights you must tell them to remain on when high beams are engaged, and you also need to turn off the cold and warm monitoring for the fog lights or wire in a CAN BUS resistor module so that you won't get the bulb out warning in the dash.

FL_UND_NSW_NICHT_GLEICHZ - nicht_activ - for the foglights to stay on with highbeams



I'd have to look up the cold/hot monitoring and the reporting lines for the front fog lights that will need to be modified to accomodate the HID/xenon setup...

Its tough for you to notice T since you went from OE halogen bulb to OE halogen bulb, whereas I went from H11 yellow bulb to H11 "xenon look" bulb, but did you notice the projector housing although a sharper output doesn't seem as "intense" as the reflector housing (which is the point of the projector I guess, a more even spread of light)

See this thread, Lightwerkz has initial post on page 1 with 6000k to 8000k bulb output with 55w ballasts! And the output is good with that but not phenomenal. 2nd page he puts 4300k bulbs in with 55w ballasts and the output looks amazing, but again, that is not just HID, but 55w ballast HID which is brighter than normal 35w.


I still say it is not the Depo housing (Cesar even commented on the great build quality), Clockwork, are you using 35w or 55w HID? What color temp are your bulbs and are you using an H3 kit or H3C kit? Care to share some output pics?

You need to remember these fog light housings are intended to throw the light on the ground in front of you, they are not supposed to be a long throw type beam, however you should get some width and intensity on the foreground as that is what they are designed for.

When I had the 35w, 4300K HID kid in the projectors, the beam cut off was dirty and I assumed it was the distance of the light source to the beam cut off shield (hence why I opted to try the H3 bulbs and made the wire harness conversion, for shits and giggles).
RB, I bought all the parts to make a proper crossover from factory H11 connector to the connector needed for the Projector housings, (love the look of a factory wire harness and not just a cut and solder job) and then put NARVA H3 Range Power 50+ (55w, supposed to be some of brightest H3 bulbs in world) in the new projectors and the light output on one housing is weaker than the other side (had same problem with HID's in there). the beam cut off is again not that pretty, so I again assumed it had to do with the distance of the filament of the bulb to the beam cut off pattern shield. I'm not sure why others are having such success in the HID/projector department and I'm not, and even when I go to an old school bulb and still get a crappy cut off pattern, I assmed its the build quality of BOTH sets I've received. I've seem pics of others and their beam cut off (with both halogen and HID sources) are great and clean :( I just want that.
I wish I took pics of the beam cut off. AND in all honesty I'd use the Projectors with either bulb (HID or Halogen) but at the moment, the reflectors I have with H11 HID's seem to be a MUCH brighter output than the Projectors ever could be (unless I had a 55w HID kit maybe).
I did NOT know the light from the Projectors would be different from the low beam's in regards to where he light was thrown... I figured they should project as far as the low beams (but I still aim them to the ground), but if they are only meant to be shedding light on the ground directly in front, then maybe I'll have to let up on them a little and understand how they work a bit different from low beam projector throwing. Maybe I'll be sticking with the reflectors and HID kit till hey crap out...

PS: I know RB posted about what parts to buy for the conversion wire harness, but I took pics (part with part number) of all things needed. I can't figure out how to requce the quality or size so I can't post them in a thread, but if you want them, I'll e-mail them to anyone so they know what to get. just PM me anytime.

To summarize:

1) The fog light throw should not be the same distance as low beam throw, not even close. It is a foreground and width type throw, not long.

2) It's also well known that some H3 kits will be better than others, the H3 is an extremely short bulb, TRS sells an H3C which is actually slightly shorter than a standard H3, supposed to be better fitment, but members have been using standard H3's for years without issues.

3) As far as adjusting the cutoff, Cesar from Lightwerkz used a pick to either gently bend it ever so slightly away or towards the stock position to achieve a sharper cutoff, you have to remember that we are talking probably a couple millimeters at most! Extremely little bit of adjustment most likely.

4) At the end of the day the fog lights are accent lights and not standalone additional low beams, if you are happy with the realization of that and just want an increased light output as compared to a halogen H3 bulb, then put in an HID kit and enjoy the increased output. Don't expect an additional low beam by just outfitting your fog lights with HID however.

5) I never heard of Narva Range Power but I'd be sure I was using a quality set of rebased bulbs for this application.

RB, another thing that drives me crazy with both sets of projectors I have/had was the cut off was angled so instead of being flat, _/- it was much more slanted on the bottom, so it actually slanted up into the oncoming drivers eyes. Dang.
But I appreciate the heads up on the differences and may try to change the angle of the cut offs again to straighten them out.

I'll have to get better pics of my projector cutoff, but basically your beam spread should look like the below picture, although this is Lightwerkz picture after he adjusted the shield for sharper cutoff, yours should be similar but instead of sharper at the cutoff it will be "fuzzier", on this pic he is using 8000k bulbs with 55w ballasts as well.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...5/DSC_0153.jpg